Rwanda
The information below is provided by Lonely Planet readers and is not verified by Lonely Planet. For the official lowdown, contact your nearest embassy or check out our Travel Links.
Visas, Embassies & Border Crossings
Visas are free for Canadians, British and Germans. Most other nationalilties must pay US$60. Ouch!
Pamela Riley, Canada (Apr 03)
When I was in Gisenyi, it was possible to cross into the Democratic Republic of Congo. However, following the peace agreement signed in Pretoria at the end of 2002, Rwanda has withdrawn part of its troops in the DRC. It may still be possible for non-Rwandans/non-residents to go to Goma from Gisenyi, but people should keep in mind that if something goes wrong (e.g. passport lost or stolen, arrest) there is little your embassy can do. It is therefore important to check the current situation in Kigali and Gisenyi before crossing into the DRC.
Anthony De Lannoy, Belgium (Mar 03)
Travel Tips
You can get gorilla permits on the spot for Parc des Volcans in Rwanda. Much easier than Uganda. Just book at the ORTP office in Kigale.
Benjamin Sternthal, Canada (Jul 03)
You cannot cash travellers cheques anywhere. Someone told me that all the banks got together and agreed not to take them and only change cash. Weird!
Pamela Riley, Canada (Apr 03)
Rwanda nowadays is a relatively safe country to visit and travelling around the country is generally hassle-free. Kigali is, for example, definitely a lot safer than cities like Nairobi or Johannesburg. You can always check the travel warnings of the US State Department or UK Foreign and Commonwealth Office: www.state.gov and www.fco.gov.uk. They give advice on which areas are better avoided and the travel warnings are updated regularly.
You are not allowed to take photos of anything 'official' (e.g. military buildings, soldiers). If in doubt, it is better to ask permission before taking a photo.
An interesting trip from Kigali is the church in Nyamata, where several thousand people were massacred during the genocide. You can still see the blood stains on the walls. The church is now a memorial site and there is always someone to give you explanations of what happened. The road is in bad condition though, so despite being only 35km or so away from Kigali it can take up to 1.5 hours one way to get there by car/taxi (around US$50 for the return trip).
It is now possible to visit the site of Dr Dian Fossey's grave in the Parc Nacional des Volcans and do other treks in addition to visiting the mountain gorillas. Security is very tight and groups are always accompanied by soldiers. Note that you are not allowed to take photos of them, not even when they are standing in the background.
Anthony De Lannoy, Belgium (Mar 03)
Moving About
A private bus company has several buses a day from Kigali to places like Ruhengeri, Gisenyi and Goma (Democratic Republic of Congo). The minibuses leave from the bus stand, across from the ORTPN office, behind the Hôtel des Mille Collines. I found their service very reliable and you can reserve seats in advance.
Anthony De Lannoy, Belgium (Mar 03)
There is a bus every day between Cyangugu and Kibuye leaving at 7.30am. There is also a bus every day from Kibuye to Gisenyi leaving at 8am. Cyangugu and Kibuye are very beautiful and much nicer than Gisenyi.
Hanne Finholt, Norway (Jan 03)
Gems, Highlights & Attractions
Tracking mountain gorillas is an experience you will never forget. However, some people are so obsessed with taking that one, perfect picture, that they will go to great lengths to do so and forget to enjoy the time allowed with the mountain gorillas. Time is limited, you only get one hour. In addition, the vegetation is dense, there is often not enough light (take 800 ASA film) and the mountain gorillas move around frequently. Therefore, if you really want to be sure to be able to take good photos, your only option is to go several days (e.g. 3 days or so). Viewing the mountain gorillas on a particular day is NOT guaranteed and you are not entitled to refunds (unless you are ill, then your gorilla permit is refunded). When I was seeing mountain gorillas in Rwanda and Uganda, other people in the group often defied the rules (or at least tried to) to get closer and take better photos. As a result, the trackers - instead of being able to explain things - spent their time trying to keep certain individuals from getting too close and disturbing the animals. Please stick to the rules and keep your distance, as the mountain gorillas are highly endangered and can get ill and may even die from human-borne diseases.
Anthony De Lannoy, Belgium (Mar 03)
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