Kenya
The information below is provided by Lonely Planet readers and is not verified by Lonely Planet. For the official lowdown, contact your nearest embassy or check out our Travel Links.
Visas, Embassies & Border Crossings
The visa cost US$50 per person regardless of nationality apparently. It is valid for three months and you can travel between Tanzania, Kenya, and Uganda as often as you like during this time.
Denise Warner, Germany (Mar 03)
I've either been lucky or the US$20 departure tax from Kenya is no more. My last two exits have been free. Before an international departure from Mombasa your boarding pass must be stamped by a customs official and a departure card must be filled in. If you can't find a departure card, as I couldn't, use an entry card and write departure on it.
Dixie Dean, UK (Nov 02)
All buses on the night bus route from Kenya to Uganda stop at the border crossing which opens just before dawn. You will need to queue up with lots of other people to get your visa. Miraculously you will find the right bus when you have finished and they won't leave without you.
Klara Henderson, Australia (Nov 02)
The main border post with Kenya in North West Tanzania is at Isebania. We discovered that you CAN get a Tanzanian Visa at the border, no problem, despite the official information from the UK Foreign Office that you have to get one before you leave Britain.
Guy Westoby, UK (Aug 02)
Watch out when you use Moi International Airport, Mombasa. If, like many people, you obtain your Entry Visa upon arrival, you will need UK£35 CASH or the equivalent in US$ or other acceptable foreign currency for each passport. Otherwise you'll have to put up with a poor rate at the airport bureau.
Ken Sparkes, UK (Jul 02)
Travel Tips
Finding ANY toilet is very difficult. Of couse there's no social taboo about peeing on the roadside or on a side-street, but in an urban setting one may feel inhibited about doing this. Most toilets are of the hole-in-the-ground variety, which is fine except that the surrounding area will invariably show where the previous 50 users missed the mark. This will lead to smelly smudges on your trek-shoes. All these cubicles stink to high heaven and the ground is usually wet, so brace yourself!.
My advice is:
(a) Even if you are in a place where they go to great trouble to get you the key for the "choo" (toilet) out the back, don't expect the area to be clean or maintained at all.
(b) Roll up your trouser legs as these will get soaked with the urine of others spilled all over the floor.
(c) Wipe your shoes on the grass afterwards.
(d) If possible, go in the open air as the risks of other people's waste on your clothes is less.
(e) CARRY A TOILET ROLL in your bag AT ALL TIMES. Even hotels outside Nairobi don't stock any; when I asked why I was informed "because people steal it!".
There is a shortage of ATM machines outside of Nairobi. This is a real nuisance as it means needing to travel hours by matatu (bus) to replenish the coffers if in remote areas. Best to withdraw cash in the city before travelling to the rural areas.
(a) MEATFood supply to the shops in rural areas is very poor. Roast goat served with ugali (maize meal heated in a pan with hot water and formed into a tasteless putty-like paste) is the staple fare and is quite off-putting after you've seen the goat carcasses hanging from the butchery (butcher's shop) ceiling, covered in flies, blood dripping onto the floor, no refrigeration and no glass in the shop windows. Many butcheries have offerings placed on wooden shelves, open to the dusty road outside. These usually boast delights such as goat bowel arranged in a lump of swirls beside a cow brain, then a liver, some pig's feet and goats' heads. The lack of hygiene is shocking and it may be safer to buy frozen meat from the town supermarkets, though you will probably pay more for this than you would at home.
(b) MILKI've not seen pasteurised milk on sale outside of Nairobi. It's best to stick to the UHT longlife variety, as milk bought fresh at these "dairies" carries a risk of Brucellosis with it. In the same way be careful with cream used on fruit salad, desserts etc. One can't be sure where it comes from, so ask!
(c) TRADITIONAL DISHESAs I've said, the national treat is Nyama Choma (roast goat) served in huge chunks off the flames, on wooden platters. Of course once you've toured the butcheries, you may be turned vegetarian!
Tina Buckley, UK (Aug 03)
The roads to and from Lamu are only bad during rainy seasons, as this is when buses travel slower and can be vulnerable to bandit attacks. I have never heard of bandits hurting tourists however, they will certainly rob everyone on the bus if they stop you. These attacks are extremely infrequent (approximately one attack per year). Otherwise, there is no safer place to be than Lamu, and it is truly my favorite place in Kenya. The culture, religion, history, architecture, and above all: the people of Lamu are unique, welcoming, and not to be missed.
Lisa, Canada (Apr 03)
As far as visiting a Maasai village, as long as you are with a tour company the money is always given back to the driver, even if it is given directly to the Maasai. If tourists want to buy crafts the best way to do this is to ask Maasai, who work at most camps, if the women from their village can come to the safari camp with some jewellery for sale.
Anon, Canada (Jan 03)
Important news for travellers going to Watamu - there are no banks there at all. Apparently black market trading made banks obsolete and the closest ATM is in Malindi, a Ksh 40 matatu ride away. Make sure you take cash or travellers cheques with you.
Emma Davis, Australia (Jan 03)
Some times we were not able to use the ATM in Nairobi, because the lines were too busy. It's better to try in the evening, but then take care and go by cab.
Nadia Tjong Ayong & Tamara van Leeuwarden, Netherlands (Dec 02)
Every Tuesday a Maasai market takes place at a little hill near Slip Road in Nairobi. It is nice to get some souvenirs but it can also be very annoying because all the sellers want you to look at their shop. If you want to pass them, it's not possible because they block your way. I went there the first day I was in Kenya and again four weeks later. The difference was very strange. It was like it was written all over me that I had already spent some time in East Africa. The sellers were a lot less annoying and their prices started at a more reasonable level. If a seller blocks your way don't look at his stuff, look in front of you and walk on, as if you will bump into him. You will not hit the person because he will finally let you pass.
Camping in public campsites can be very dangerous. One night there were lions just in front of our tents, 20cm from the gauze. They were looking inside the tent, being curious about what was happening. We were lying there, looking at the contour of the head of the beast, praying to god that it would leave. Fortunately people had told us, in such a case, do not move just STAY IN YOUR TENT. Before I went on this trip, I couldn't imagine this kind of thing happening to me! I'm certainly happy I'm back in Europe alive and kicking.
Carna Van Hove, Belgium (Sep 02)
If you want to change money at Isebania please note there is not a bank or bureau de change on either side of the border. Hence, you'll get mobbed by black market moneychangers as soon as your truck/4WD/bus stops. It's worth haggling as the competition means you'll get a pretty fair rate, but count your money carefully as the number of noughts on Tanzanian Shillings can be confusing. Also, change only US dollars or Kenyan Shillings as the rate for anything else, including Sterling, is appalling. Needless to say there is nowhere to change travellers cheques around this area.
Guy Westoby, UK (Aug 02)
Moving About
Matatus (mini-buses) are the mainstay of transport between towns and villages. These are supposed to carry 14-16 passengers, but invariably carry at least 20 people and on one occasion I counted 26 passengers. The usual fare is KSh80 for a 50km journey. These vehicles go at high speed, eg. 60-70 miles per hour, over rough country roads and fatal accidents are a regular occurrence. There is however little alternative if you need to travel, except maybe hiring a speed-taxi (car that takes 8 passengers) and accepting the added expense.
Tina Buckley, UK (Aug 03)
Fisherman's Campsite Lake Naivasha: a warning - we foolishly got into a matatu in Naivasha to go to Fisherman's without agreeing a price and were charged KSh 400 for two people even though the fare was about 50 max!!!! We were then told that the campsite was 4 km from the drop off point and got charged another KSh 100 to be taken down there. It was about 150 m!!! We got off lightly it seems, the man in the office at the camp said a week earlier a white man on his own had been charged KSh 1500 on top of his original KSh 50 fare for being dropped at the door just because by that stage the vehicle was empty so it was 'taxi rate'. When he refused to pay he was threatened at knife point. Apparently practically all the matatus along here will try to massively overcharge you - even the locals get ripped off so be on your guard!
Crater Lake: You now need a police escort from the matatu drop off point at Kongoni into the game sanctuary as there are bandits along the track. Go to the police point in Kongoni or with an organised tour.
Buses to Lamu: Everyone we spoke to said that the buses all had armed soldiers on board through the danger areas. Ours certainly did. It was KSh 400 on the bus, and took 7½ hours from Mombasa to where the ferry went from.
Tracy Adams, UK (Nov 01)
At the pier in Kisumu there's a cargo ship that goes between Kisumu and Kampala, Uganda every day (to Kampala one day and back to Kisumu the next) and they accept passengers. The passenger ferry makes a circuit of Kisumu (leaves Tuesday 9am), Kendu Bay, Homa Bay, Mbita, Mfangano, Rusinga, returning to Kisumu on Sunday night.
Allison Allgaier, USA (Oct 01)
Scams & Warnings
My two friends and I planned a safari to Masai Mara for two days. We camped outside the park. Our guide brought us in and out of the back way of the park both days to divert paying the fees, but still took US$30 from each of us as well as his daily earnings. We were on to his scamming so we demanded receipts (apparently, Kenyans take receipts very seriously). The driver (not so cleverly) gave us receipts with incorrect dates that were out of sequence. Our driver must have been doing this for years. Anyways, we got him fired, but it is such a shame that the parks continue to get exploited. When talking to the manager, he explained that many tourists just give all of the money up front for safaris and the drivers acquire the park fees for them. Many of the drivers could be stealing the money intended for the park fees without anyone ever knowing.
Kelly Buja, USA (Sep 03)
Street children AND their parents begging, particularly along Kimathi Street and the side-roads linking Tom Mboya Avenue to Moi Avenue are a huge annoyance, not only because there are so many following and one cannot give money to them all, but also because if you refuse to part with cash, you are likely to be followed not just to the end of the street, but for the next 3-4 streets. Once it gets dark, women (who look well fed) gather with children on their backs on Moi Avenue and follow passers-by (especially any Mzungu/white). It's a well organised game. It's difficult to negotiate the town centre with so many obstacles.
Tina Buckley, UK (Aug 03)
Here's a scam that I found out had happened to many people. On our first day in Nairobi, we were approached by a man who greeted us as though he knew us. We looked at him with confusion and he said" It's me, Abdul, I work at the hotel you are staying at. I saw you check in". We had seen so many faces that day that we couldn't be sure and we didn't want to seem impolite so we continued conversation with him. After a while of talking he said he had to get some of the groceries for the hotel and pointed to a place where we could get sandals since that was what I was looking for. He then headed off to get groceries. After a few minutes in the shoe store, he walked by and came in. He said that he was just short of the amount of money that he needed to pay for the groceries and asked if we could lend him some money. He told us that he would pay us back as soon as he got back to the hotel when the manager had gotten the bill. We asked him why he wouldn't just go back to the hotel and get some more money and he said his food was already at the check-out. We said "sorry" and wished him luck and left. Of course, when we got back to the hotel, they told us they hadn't sent anyone to get food.
Lorna Whitfield, Canada (Mar 03)
A police officer told us that there is a group of criminals active in Mombasa who have master-keys with which they can open hotel rooms. They work as follows: they book a room in a hotel where tourists are staying; they watch very closely when these tourist go out (they even ask where you are going); they go into the tourists' hotel room and take their valuables; then they leave the hotel.
Bram de Rooij & Nathalie Brauns, Netherlands (Mar 03)
I have a tale to tell regarding ID cards and so called police in Nairobi. The scam this time involved questions about Scotland, then the asker was interested in churches and my country. He said he was a preacher in transit. Eventually I gave him a little money (good hardship story and the value of the money didn't make much difference to my overall fund) before being pulled by the 'police' for assisting an illegal immigrant and being taken for the other cash I was carrying (thankfully not much due to Nairobi's reputation). I was questioned to start with but then the good cop, bad cop and aggression came in to it. Sounds simple really but after coming from Bali where the wonderful people are genuinely interested in learning more about your country we were easily fooled. I don't want to put the country down but trust no one in Nairobi - its the best advice I can give. The rest of the holiday on safari made up for it though - absolutely recommended to anyone who has even half considered a safari!
Richie, UK (Feb 03)
At Nairobi Airport arrivals I was approached by a well dressed lady representing Tourist Information who wanted to arrange a hotel booking for me. I told her that I would be taking a taxi. I paid KSh1000 for a taxi. En route to my hotel the taxi driver told me that it was full. I told him that I would check for myself and if it was full then there was always the hotel next door.
Whilst walking in Nairobi about half a mile from my hotel, I was approached by a man who asked me if I remembered him from last night working at my hotel. He said that his car had run out of petrol and that he needed to borrow some money to get some more. He had fruit in the car urgently needed at the hotel. I would be generously reimbused later back ath the hotel. As our conversation developed, his manner changed from friendly to angry. I gave him US$2 and never saw this man again. The hotel was aware of the scam and knew of others fleeced of US$50. I got off lightly. Conmen apparently frequent Moktar Daddah Street to observe which hotel you're staying at.
Richard Barber, UK (Jan 03)
On 11th December 2002 my sister and I were travelling on a bus from Mombasa to Lamu when it was attacked by bandits. The attack happened about 30 minutes after Malindi. The Lonely Planet guide warns of bandit attacks in the past. However, after asking advice from bus companies, locals, other travellers and expats we were told an attack had not occurred for years. What the bus company did not tell us was that 2 weeks before our attack another bus was shot at but got away. If we had known this we wouldn't have travelled by bus.
The incident was very traumatic, 3 buses were attacked, 4 people killed and 6 seriously injured. This was from gun fire into the bus. We were then forced to lie face down outside the bus at gun point and hand over money, valuables and unfortunately my passport was taken as well. The police and many other people told us that another attack will happen again - maybe in a month or a year!
Jane Davies, UK (Jan 03)
If taking a dhow tour to Kisite-Mpunguti Marine Park, it would be prudent to check the safety and reliability records of any chosen vessel before embarking. Breakdowns are not uncommon. I've witnessed two in my short stays there. It must be quite scary and embarrassing for those aboard having to shout for help in unison in order to be heard on the mainland. Some of the cheaper operators have no ship to shore radio link and insufficient numbers of life belts for the passengers. On 31st December 2001, one dhow sank leaving all aboard clinging to the reef for hours until a passing boat alerted some businesses on Wasini Island who came out in their powerful rescue launches to save them.
Dixie Dean, UK (Nov 02)
When checking-in at Moi, we noticed that many passengers were getting stung for excess baggage - some to the tune of several hundred pounds. We weighed ourselves on the scales and found we had put on huge amounts of weight. Funnily enough, we were all back to normal by the time we got home.
Ken Sparkes, UK (Jul 02)
Beware that some of the cheaper shuttles from Arusha to Nairobi drop you of at a very dodgy part of town, it was the only place in seven months that we where nearly robbed, some kid tried to grab a gold necklace and run off (he did not get it thankfully). Once off the shuttle you can get a bus to the airport on the same street or cab to your hotel, even the local that came to help said this is not a good area.
Tina Hall (Nov 01)
Seems that Nairobi is even more dangerous than usual - we stayed at Planet Safaris' offices on Moi Ave and all the staff there told us not to venture NE of this road, ie. into Tom Mboya St and beyond, even in daylight. We heard several tales of daylight robberies (and that's not even the taxi fares!) taking place in this area.
Tracy Adams, UK (Nov 01)
Yarns, Fables & Anecdotes
We camped on a grassy field between the bandas (huts). Before we went to sleep in the tent the guide took us up to a ridge where we could watch antelopes, a big herd of buffalo and an elephant around a waterhole. Deadly tired after 8 hours of walking from Chogoria we soon went to sleep. At 1am I had to go outside to the toilet, but a strange noise caused us to be very awake - the sound of heavy steps! We really hoped it was only antelope, but soon we realised that it was the herd of buffalo we had observed the same evening.
What do you do with a herd of 30-40 buffalo, weighing 900 kg each, around your small tent? Do you run to the nearest banda where the guide sleeps, climb the nearest tree, or just lay down very quietly? We chose the last alternative, and did almost not dare to breathe. After a couple of hours of feeding something suddenly scared them and the herd started to run away. Lying on the ground in the middle of 40 running buffalo, we were sure our last minutes had come.
Luckily all of them took the inconvenience of running around the tent and not through it. Finally we thought we could get some hours of essential sleep but we were wrong. The buffalo returned half an hour later. Again they got very near the tent, and some of them were breathing heavily through their nose. We imagined they where standing outside with lowered head, stamping the ground, ready to attack our tent.......but they didn't. They were lying down and chewing the cud, 50 cm from our tent. Finally, at 6.30am they left us. We did not sleep a minute after they arrived and we definitely didn't go to the toilet during that night!
When we told the guide about our buffalo experience in the morning, he said that the buffalo often came up there during the nights to enjoy the grass. He should have told us this before!
Anne Margrethe & Kristoffer Sletten, Norway (Nov 02)
One morning, I felt like checking out the waterfall near the Makalia Public Camp Site in Lake Nakuru National Park. I was only 40 metres away from the tents when suddenly, a buffalo jumped out of the bushes and stood there 2 metres in front of me. I didn't know what to do. I thought that if I ran he might follow me and attack me from behind. This scenario would be bad because I wouldn't see the kick coming. If, on the other hand, I stayed where I was, I would see him move and I hoped he would pass straight by me. Instead, he ran straight at me. He took me on his horns and hurled me 5 metres into the bushes. A second later I was hanging there, thinking that it wasn't too bad because nothing was broken. I hoped the beast would run away if I kept quiet. That was, in fact the case. Luckily, there was someone nearby, who could release me from the little thorns that were sticking into my skin. I think the buffalo was just frightened, as I was, and didn't know what to do. I blocked his road. Afterwards I heard from locals that I was very fortunate since I had survived the attack, and had not even been hospitalised. I just had bruises and scratches all over my body. One thing I can tell you is that I will never forget the look of this wild animal, standing there in front of me.
Carna Van Hove, Belgium (Sep 02)
When camping in the open bush camp sites at Seronera in the Serengeti, lions were our regular overnight visitors looking for food! They even came along before we went to bed, growling about ten feet behind our tents as we sat in front. Never did we jump on to our truck as fast again! They went away after a while, but they (or others) returned throughout the night, at one stage even nuzzling our tent flaps! Exciting in a scary and pant-changing sort of way! Other regular visitors to the camp are rivers of millions of biting army ants. Fascinating to watch but not to share your tent with. Bastards!
Guy Westoby, UK (Aug 02)
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