Eritrea
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Visas, Embassies & Border Crossings
Authorities on both sides agree that the border has been officially closed again since Oct 2002, due to deteriorating relations between the two countries. It is no longer possible to cross here legally, though with the rugged border being long and remote, locals keep crossing it illegally all the time. This is certainly NOT recommended for travellers, as once inside Sudan/Eritrea, there are frequent checkpoints on the roads where documents are checked.
László Wágner, Hungary (Sept 04)
Visas for either country must be obtained in advance - they are not available at the border. Crossing this border isn't as difficult if you go on Wednesday (when the large passenger ferry leaves from Djibouti City to Obock). The ferry leaves Djibouti City at 11am and costs DFr1000 . Once it arrives in Obock, watch out for Toyota pickups to Moulhoule or "Assab" (the latter also go to Moulhoule only). A ride will cost DFr2000 . It takes about 2 hours from Obock to Moulhoule on a dirt track through the desert - watch out for gazelles! In Moulhoule passports are checked but not stamped by the Djiboutian authorities. Not getting a stamp is no problem if heading for Eritrea, but those coming to Djibouti should insist on getting stamped in or they will face difficulties when leaving Djibouti via another crossing.
In Moulhoule there will be another Toyota pickup that will go to Assab via the Eritrean border post at Rahaita for Nfa150. At Rahaita there is a small Eritrean immigration post where passports are stamped. Once in Assab, note that you can't take next morning's bus to Asmara, as you will first have to go to the local authorities to get a travel permit which is issued for free. This permit will be checked along the road, so don't leave without it!
László Wágner, Hungary (Sept 04)
Overland from Sudan to Eritrea, crossing from Kassala to Tessenei. Yes, crossing the border between the two countries is possible since autumn 2001 but demands a certain amount of preparation and paper chasing on the Sudanese side that should take the better part of two working days. To be honest, it seems as if Sudanese authorities in Kassala are trying to discourage foreigners from attempting this crossing but it is feasible none the less. On the other hand, the entry procedure into Eritrea is simplicity itself. Show your passport & visa, get your entry stamp and a warm "welcome to Eritrea" greeting along with it. It should not take more than 5 - 15 minutes, all depending on the length of the queue in front of you.
Make sure that all your Sudanese paperwork is done according to the book and that every single bit of it is perfectly legible (no smudgy stamps or blotches of ink!). Everything will be meticulously scrutinized in Kassala and the slightest discrepancy will result in refusal of your exit permit. So if you enter the country via Wadi Halfa, do endure the hassle and get your registration and travel permit in Wadi Halfa, you will be asked about it. Your travel permit should be renewed in Khartoum so don't leave town without it and make sure that destination "Kassala" is included in it.
First thing in the morning, go to the foreigners registration office (maktab al gawasat watasgil al aganeb). Take any minibus running eastwards and ask the driver to drop you off in front of the building. Get a photocopy of your travel permit(s) and all pages of your passport that have anything Sudanese on them. Get all necessary forms, fill them out and get the registration stamp in your passport. This operation should take a few hours. Next stage: If you have your own vehicle proceed to the Customs Office in the eastern outskirts of town and get Customs clearance. Drive to the border early the following day.
If you use public transport, chicken-buses and boxis go in roto to the border from a place called Khatmiya - Veggie Market (souq al khodar). Vehicles depart when full and do not depart unless they are full. There might be only one vehicle a day, some days none and seldom more than 2 so get there early. The bus/boxi trip is a package deal that includes visits to necessary government offices. Take a minibus eastwards from the main market and ask to be dropped off at the Khatmiya junction. From there it is a 5-10 minute walk down a gravel road. Once in Khatmiya head straight to an unmarked booth of the Security Police. Give them your passport and assist the bloke in any way you can (they might have problems reading foreign passports) and otherwise treat him with tender loving care. This is where your fate is partially sealed. He will enter the details of your passport in his logbook and write down comments about anything that he finds suspicious on a piece of paper that will be handed over to another bloke that joins the journey to the border.
Security Police Station in Kassala. Everybody stays in the vehicle while exit permits are processed and Khatmiya comments are reviewed. Next stop: Customs Office. Everybody takes their luggage for inspection, the passengers get a collective customs Clearance. The trip to the border can start in earnest. The border caters exclusively for Eritreans and Sudanese, mostly refugees and their families. Experience with foreigners is non-existent so the guy there just obeys orders and checks that all your stamps are kosher according to some obscure instructions manual. Any missing this or unclear that and you are sent straight back to Kassala (I have actually talked to a German couple that was sent back for such reasons). All fine? Back on the bus and another 30 minutes bus ride. Final stop: Eritrean Border Post "Talat'asher". Welcome to Eritrea. Get your stamp, reserve your seat on the minibus to Tessenei and change your last Sudanese Dinars to Nakfas with the tea-house lady.
Tessenei: book your onward bus ticket first thing upon arrival (Barentu, Keren or Asmara). Tickets sell out fast. They all leave at five the following morning.
Yuval Ronen, Norway (Apr 02)
Australian Consular operations have received telephone calls from members of the public requesting letters of introduction to obtain a visa while travelling in Africa. The Australian Department of Foreign Affairs and Trade and its overseas posts do not provide such a service. We suggest people approach DIMA and obtain a Declaratory Certificate of Australian Citizenship.
Peter Budd, Australia (Apr 01)
Travel Tips
In Asmara we didn't try to change money in the streets but it's rather easy to find a much better rates than the "official" ones. For example, at some shops or hotels, you could get 30 nakfas / 1 euro (instead of 18) or 24 nakfas / 1 USD (instead of 13.5). Just ask around you and you'll find alternatives.
Nicolas Gizardin & Nicole Giordano, France (Jan 05)
Travel permits are now required to go everywhere besides Asmara, Keren and Massawa. They are issued at the new tourist information office in Asmara free of charge. Currently tourists are not permitted to travel to Nakfa, Filfil or Debre Libanos, or anywhere in the Sudanese border region outside Teseney. If you wish to visit Debre Bizen monastery near Nefasit, it is worth knowing that even after having obtained a 70Nfa permit from the Orthodox Headquarters in Asmara you will not be allowed inside any of the churches or shown the ancient treasures they have - all you can do there is walk around the buildings, which is still nice, but disappointing. Women are still banned altogether.
László Wágner, Hungary (Sept 04)
Black market exchange is possible on the streets with a rate in excess of 40% better than authorised exchanges, but, I would certainly urge caution as it is illegal and state security is quite tight. You may be offered some kind of deal in one of the exchange houses if nobody is around. This is possibly a bit safer strictly speaking, though all foreign currency should be exchanged at the government rate which still goes a fair way. If you do otherwise you should not ignore the risks but you're all adults right!
Andrew Fleming, UK (Nov 02)
Beware! Cycling is not allowed through Liberation Avenue and neighboring streets. Traffic police have the authority to confiscate your bike and they will!
Tipping is somewhere between North American and European standards. Generally it's a flat rate rather than a percentage. For example, Nfa1 in a cafe or Nfa3 to Nfa5 in a restaurant. Many places have service included so check your bill.
Anon, USA (Sep 02)
Diving: local dive guides can only come from the Ministry of Marine Resources' Eritrea Dive Centre, and at a cost of approx. US$60 per day (payable in Nakfa). Then all non-Eritreans must pay a tourist tax of approx. US$20 (payable only in US$) when they leave Massawa, although not for Green Island. I have been informed that this is payable once, something like a departure tax, for however long you are out of Massawa, regardless of where you are going. This has replaced the previous permit for Dahlak Islands. You can only dive the Dahlak islands from boats which are licensed for going to the islands. So no fishing boats or privately owned boats can be used. There is one sambuk licensed, and the Maila, and then the other operators as given in the guidebook.
Sally Laurens (Mar 02)
Moving About
Foreigners need travel permits to go anywhere outside the central zone (around 60 km round Asmara or past Keren or Massawa). These are available from the Ministry of Tourism on Liberation Avenue (Asmara) but are rarely given out. I was teaching in Afabet and even with the necessary papers the guards at Keren were less than friendly.
Anonymous (Aug 05)
Scams & Warnings
Be careful to look both ways before opening your door to exit the car. Whereas in many places like Moscow and New York people's behaviour on the streets is classified as offensive or aggresive, in Asmara drivers, cyclists and pedestrians are more aptly categorised as unconscious. They are not aggressive, to be sure, but will likely result in harm to someone sooner or later. Be extremely aware of your surroundings on the streets and don't assume anything.
Anon, USA (Sep 02)
Gems, Highlights & Attractions
As of the March 2005, there is now a regular service for tourists on the wonderful, world unique Eritrean Railways. Every Sunday a steam train departs for the 25km journey from Asmara down to Nefasit. This is one of the highlights of a visit in Eritrea. Most members of the train personal are still over 80 years old. Prices for foreigners are US$50 return Asmara - Nefasit - Asmara.
Dieter Leonhard, Germany (April 05)
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