Egypt
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Visas, Embassies & Border Crossings
Catching a boat from Nuweiba to Aqaba is a bit chaotic and is not well documented by LP Egypt or LP Jordan. No one in Dahab sells boat tickets. After you get off the bus in Nuweiba, walk towards the port and then make a left. The ticket office is about a 5-10 minute walk away in an undistinguished pinkish/beige coloured building. There are few signs but ask any of the locals and ignore the taxi drivers. Make sure you have US dollars on hand. The fast boat is US$45 and the slow one is US$33. The price includes departure tax.
After securing the tickets, walk back towards the port. The entrance to the complex is directly facing the street the bus station is on. Go to the departure building (it looks a bit like a refugee centre with the filthy dark hall) and queue in the correct line to get your passport stamped. The lines could be long so don't wait until it is almost boat departure time! Someone will eventually hand you an "exit" form while you're in line. Fill it out - you may need this person's help since most of the form is in Arabic. After this, you need to wait in/near the terminal until it's almost time to board a crowded bus (we had to carry our huge backpacks on!) which will travel the 200-300 metres to bring you to the boat (you are NOT allowed to walk to the boat). The currency exchange service on the fast boat is very competitive (for US$ to JD anyway, almost at official/bank rate). Before you get off, your passport will be collected by a non-uniform wearing Jordanian immigration official.
Don't worry, you'll get it back.
Ivan, USA (Jan 03)
The cheapest way to get a visa for Egypt is to get it directly at the airport. Many European travel agents will charge more for it. It only costs 70 Egyptian pounds per visa.
Jurek Krupinski, Spain (Nov 02)
When arriving at Luxor airport we found that visas were being issued at one counter for £10 Sterling each and, at another counter, for £45 for the four people in our party. When we protested the price immediately went down to £10 each. We gather that US dollars can also be offered and that the price is US$10 which is much cheaper.
Ann & Andrew Corke, UK (Nov 02)
In the Lonely Planet Guide to Cairo, you write in the part on duty free shops, that duty-free articles can be purchased within 30 days of arrival at the two main duty free outlets in Cairo. Yesterday, I discovered that legislation has changed and that purchasing should be done within 24 hours of arrival.
Inge Debackker, Egypt (Mar 02)
Travel Tips
As of April 2003 the government has introduced more stringent currency controls so foreigners are required to pay for certain services in US dollars and cannot pay in local currency. An example of this was the wagons-lit sleeper from Cairo to Aswan and Luxor. As a foreigner you must pay in US dollars, they don't accept credit cards and they won't accept local currency from you. Just to make life more difficult there is nowhere in Cairo where you can obtain US dollars; we were told the airport was the only place to get dollars but they only issue travellers cheques which the wagons-lit service also doesn't accept. We were forced to take a different train with seats, much cheaper than even first class and you can pay in local currency.
Karen Hunnisett, UK (Oct 03)
Getting a ticket to go inside the Khufu pyramid is a real pain. I was the first of the tourists to arrive that day (at 07:15, 45 minutes before opening), but because the police road-block tourists from entering from the Pyramids road several hundred metres down from the ticket office, when it did open, I and others on foot were passed by about 5 buses. The guides of each then stepped out and were each buying tickets for > 40 people. Because of how long this took, I was much later getting into the site and into the second queue for the 150 tickets they sell to get into the Khufu pyramid. Indeed, they'd sold their quota before I got there. Fortunately, I found so much to do around the site that I was still around for the next sale of 150 tickets at 13:00.
A useful tip with the Khufu is not to be in too much of a hurry to get in when you've bought your ticket. Most of those 150 tourists go straight over to the pyramid and join the "camel train" squeezing their way through the passages. Besides the questionable aesthetics of following the sweaty backside of the person in front of you (the one I was behind was wheezing so badly I was already playing through the scenario of how we were going to carry him out, if required), it becomes even more Cairo-esque when you start to meet people coming down (very few people stay in the central tomb more than a couple of minutes). Much better to wait about 1/2 hour after they've finished selling the tickets, as there'll only be a handful of you in the monument. Oh, and the other fun thing is they don't allow cameras into the pyramid at all (nothing to do with buying a camera ticket). The guy checking the tickets confiscated mine until I re-emerged, and then wanted some baksheesh for taking care of it.
I said that I rather thought not!
Dario Frigo, UK (Sep 03)
Due to recent legistlation you are forced to pay for excursions with hard currency, e.g. US dollars or euros. Before it was possible to pay in Egyptian pounds, but not anymore. This applies to all official tourist excursion organisations and excursions booked at hotels. Travellers should therefore keep enough cash with them to be able to pay for these excursions since, especially the smaller tourist offices and hotels, do not always accept credit cards. Otherwise money can be exchanged at the larger banks in Egypt but this will obviously come at a charge.
Eduard de Visser, Netherlands (Jun 03)
About Aswan: It is important to have a look at the felucca before deciding and try to find out exactly how many people would be in the felucca. Some captains told the customer there would be only six passengers but in the end there are more than ten, which makes it a little bit too crowded.
Wanling Pan (Jun 03)
When buying spices in Khan al-Khalili it's worth finding the narrow covered lane of the actual spice market, if only because it's relatively untouristed and consequently people hassle tourists less and tend to charge fairer prices. Bargaining is not common and we tried with absolutely no luck. It's located on the south east side of Mosque of Al-Ashraf Barsbey.
Jo Johnston, USA (Apr 03)
Camera fees seem to have been discontinued at the Giza Pyramids and the Egyptian Museum (was E£10). However the woman in the ticket office at the museum tried to take the money anyway, while pretending not to speak English. We made her give us the correct change. If you don't get a ticket for something then don't give any money!
Mike McKeown, UK (Mar 03)
It is possible to take a taxi from Dahab to the Monastery of St. Katherine for as little as E£60. The taxi driver will take you to the police stations, arrange the permissions, drive you to the Monastery, wait while you climb up Mt. Sinai (to watch the sunset, for example) and take you back to Dahab. Do not forget your torch, as you will need it while descending Mt. Sinai in the dark.
Bela Goblyos, Hungary (Feb 03)
Posting a package at the central post office near Ramses Station was a lengthy experience but also considerably more expensive than expected. I ended up paying something like E£160 for a 5kg parcel to London via sea mail. They showed me the prices on a sheet of paper which seemed to correspond with the charges (I learnt to read Arabic numbers) so I don't think they were adding a commission. To start with unless the parcel measured an exact size which was about the size of a large novel it cost E£75 for them to even look at it if going by sea and E£90 otherwise. Then there is an additional E£19/kg by sea (I didn't take note of how much by air), E£2 to wrap and a few pounds in various admin costs.
Ray & Robyn Markham, UK (Feb 03)
When Egyptians say "no" or "full" or "closed" in an official capacity it may just mean "I'd like some baksheesh" or "I'm too busy now but try me later." I was trying to buy overnight train tickets from Cairo to Aswan 2 days before the trip. The attendant initially said "no seats". Having travelled in Eastern Europe, I went back a second time 10 minutes later and the same guy said "Welcome there are plenty of seats my friend".
A few mosques we visited in Cairo were quite aggressive in getting baksheesh. We've been to Turkey in the past, and at the first mosque we visited on this trip (Al-Azhar), we just left our shoes on the rack out front like before. We let our guards down and were taken on a "private" tour of some of the not so public rooms. At the end we offered an E£2 donation but had the money thrown back at us, the request was for E£10. We were told by several "muscle guys" that E£2 was only enough for the "shoe handling fee". We got out by pleading poverty and parting with E£5.
Not too many Cairo cabbies seemed to understand "Citadel". We had to look it up in the glossary at the back of LP Egypt. Be sure to ask to be let off at Bab al-Gabal entrance to save yourself a long walk around the site to get in.
The sufi dancing at the citadel is definitely worth it - and it's free! We're still dizzy thinking about it.
If you catch the overnight (non-luxury sleeper) train from Cairo to Luxor/Aswan, much of the text on the white ticket is in Arabic. Ours only had Giza and Aswan in English at the bottom. Do not fall for the taxi driver's lie about having to go to Giza (extra E£15-20 cab fare from downtown). The train leaves from Ramses station and just stops briefly at Giza.
Definitely try to learn to read the numbers in Arabic.
In Aswan, the Abu Simbel-High Dam-Philae-Unfinished Obelisk tour costs E£45-50 (excluding admissions). The High Dam was a waste of money in our opinion but the guards charged everyone in the minivan. There was no choice to not pay! Don't pay for a round-trip for the boat to Philae as you may be taking a different boat going back.
We swear all Cairo drivers are nut jobs (or have to be). Crossing streets could be difficult as no signs/signals are observed, although once in a while there's a traffic cop directing traffic. Your best strategy is to shadow a local and follow him/her across. Alternatively, walk quickly and when you establish eye contact with on-coming drivers raise your hand to signal you would like them to slow/avoid you (don't automatically count on it though!).
Ivan, USA (Jan 03)
A traveller should pay no more than E£50 for a day trip from Aswan to Abu Simbel, Aswan High Dam, Philae and the unfinished obelisk. It can be done for as little as E£40. Felucca rides should cost no more than E£10-12 per hour. Beware of the intense pressure for tips when you arrive back. A friend and I went up to the first cataract and back for E£35. It took 3.5 hours as the wind was slack.
Anton Menning, USA (Jan 03)
Old Cairo is very worthwhile. The old Coptic Museum building is open again, as is the Hanging Church. Both are must sees. Take advantage of the free tours at the Hanging Church â?? they actually don't ask for any baksheesh and it's quite informative. All the churches and the synagogue are worth visiting.
Shopping in Luxor is better than Aswan. There's a much wider range of stuff to buy, with more jewelry, semi-precious stones, alabaster, etc. that is better than the â??plastic pyramids with gold snowâ?? stuff. Watch out for alabaster that has holes if you're planning to use vases or bowls for flowers. Ask them to put water in it and wait and see.
A tip to anyone trying to buy alcohol: if you really want something imported, buy at duty-free before or just after entering the country! You have up to 24 hours after entering to buy from a duty-free shop. Otherwise, sellers of imported spirits are few and far between and the taxes are steep. Ask a taxi driver to help you if you're looking â?? they always know how to find a bottle. Avoid Egyptian liquor unless you like Russian roulette.
Mark Hayman, USA (Jan 03)
On a recent visit to Luxor my wife and I went on an unforgettable 3 hour horse ride. The owner was very helpful, selecting horses according to our horseriding experience (nil for me, high for my wife). The horses were healthy, clean and in good condition. We had a wonderful and safe ride across the desert and around the villages accompanied by a very good guide. The cost was extremely reasonable at about 160 Egyptian Pounds.
Graham Kettles, UK (Jan 03)
I have found when haggling for anything you should always offer a quarter of the asking price and settle somewhere between a quarter and half of the asking price.
Seamus O'Prey, Northern Ireland (Dec 02)
The night walk to the summit of Mount Sinai is a highly recommended excursion. There is no need for a guide as the easy camel trail takes you to the top and usually you will walk with many people who carry torches. If you are fit it's only a 1.5 hour walk. The best part is just after sunrise, when the first light of the day illuminates the mountain with its full spectrum of colours from orange and yellow to red. Then, on the way down follow the 4000 steps to the monestery of St. Katherine.
Jurek Krupinski, Spain (Nov 02)
Luxor is known for it's persistent and troublesome vendors, felucca captains and taxi drivers. However, you can avoid the hassle of bargaining for souvenirs and trinkets, and most importantly, avoid being ripped off simply by leaving some or all of your shopping until you leave the country when you're at Luxor Airport. After passport control, there are several duty free shops around the passenger lounge which stock all the souvenirs you could possibly want. The difference here is that the goods usually have fixed prices and the prices are actually more competitive than in the souqs and shops of Luxor itself.
Kamal Anwar, UK (Oct 02)
It could be handy to take a pack of cheap biros on trips to Luxor. Several times when we were bargaining we were given a small scarab as a "gift" and asked if we had a "gift" to give too - pens being requested. We were also asked for pens a couple of times instead of "baksheesh".
Janet Adams, UK (Oct 02)
Take a torch when you go to the seafront at night (usually in the darker back streets). Due to the continual development in the area there are many hazards, like piles of debris and even unmarked man holes not completly closed!
Wayne Farrell, UK (Jul 02)
If I had to give one piece of advice to Egypt visitors, it would be to get the minimum local currency possible for day to day needs. Changing Egyptian money back into hard currency is next to impossible. The whole country is hoarding US dollars. Cairo airport "exchange" office has gone from "sorry, out of dollars" (Nov 2001) to "we only deal in traveller's checks" (Apr 2002). Also spending those last few tatty notes in the duty free can't be done: dollars only. In downtown Cairo, the American Express office will not exchange to dollars. Thomas Cook downtown is your best bet, but there are no guarantees. At best expect a few trips there due to them being "out of dollars right now". I got $100 with some ceremony. So careful planning with Egyptian money is necessary. Also LP should underscore more forcefully the fact that Egyptian currency is not convertible outside the country either.
Declan Gilmurray (Apr 02)
I'd like to strongly recommend to all students out there to take their international student card (I got mine from STA). I was surprised at how many places actually accepted it and it was well worth buying. I used it at the Light Show at the Pyramids, the Cairo Musuem (the mummy room is brilliant!), the Cheops Museum and the Coptic Museum.
Dominick Gray, UK (Jan 02)
Moving About
At Ramses (Mubarak) metro station, you can obtain one-week, go where you please tickets for the metro. This saves money and the crowd in the ticket offices. They cost E£3000.
Jurgen Gast, Germany (Mar 03)
In the train station in Asyut they told us "no ticket, tickets today finished, travel tomorrow". As we needed to go to Luxor we just jumped on the next local train (2nd class, no air conditioning) to the dislike of the officers who watched all our steps. It was no problem at all. The train was less busy than a German commuter train at rush hour, we even got seats, and we could buy the ticket from the conductor - it cost only E£6 per person from Asyut to Luxor (5 hours).
Baerbel Bosch, Germany (Jan 03)
The airport bus from Cairo airport seems to vary its pickup point. Sometimes it stops next to the small café to the left of the carpark and at other times on the road before you get to the carpark. It is best to wait on the road, as all buses seem to pass this way.
Jan Pennington (Jan 03)
In general, EXCEPT for Cairo, negotiate a cab fare before getting into the cab. Try to get an idea of travel distance and be prepared to walk away (you might get called back) and hail another taxi. In Luxor where several taxis are parked together in some spots, we got the drivers to compete for our business (and almost started fights!). In Cairo, in most cases yell out the area you're heading to through the open window, get in the taxi and just pay after you get out (no negotiations). Taxi drivers waiting immediately outside Khan al-Khalili souq, Citadel, hotels, etc. will only gouge you, so you may have to bargain (though the attempt to bargain elicits some outrageous opening prices!).
Consider renting your own taxi. Our bargaining started on the boat across the Nile. We said we planned to bike instead and got price down to E£55 for a full-day (about 7 hours) drive around West Bank Luxor.
Ivan, USA (Jan 03)
Travellers to Egypt in winter should beware that some of the public transport is not really suited for the cold temperatures experienced at night. I first noticed this when on an overnight bus journey from Sharm el-Sheikh to Luxor. Very soon it was clear that the windows and roof vents were not at all well insulated and huge draughts ensured real discomfort. The buses move at quite a speed and for passengers who are sitting in one place for long periods of time the result is a most unpleasant journey. I could hardly move with rigor mortis after this particular 13-hour journey, not to mention that for most of the journey films were playing loudly on video, to the great amusement of most of the other passengers.
On the night train from Aswan to Cairo I again noticed that draughts were coming through the windows, though admittedly not as badly as on the buses. Incidently, the trains from Aswan to Cairo are now only scheduled to take 12 hrs 15 mins and the one I took was in fact on time. So my advice to travellers intending to use public transport at night during the winter months in Egypt is to be prepared. At least bring along a thick sweater or jacket and especially a hat or scarf to keep your head warm. Otherwise expect a very uncomfortable journey.
Male travellers need to take care when using the Cairo metro. I stepped into the second carriage of a train only to find myself surrounded by women, all staring at me. One lady told me, in her language, in no uncertain terms that I was not welcome so I quickly moved to the next carriage, just before the doors closed. But the trains do not stop for very long at stations and so it is crucial to look around before getting on to ensure that a difficult situation does not arise. However, I later saw trains where only the first carriage was reserved for women so it seems that the rules are variable.
Graham Johnston, Czech Republic (Jan 03)
We travelled all around the Sinai with a rental car and some of our friends forgot their passports. At the beginning, when you are stopped at the checkpoints, it may seem that you will have to go back to your hotel but after a short conversation with a lot of smiles they usually let you go.
Jurek Krupinski, Spain (Nov 02)
The journey from Siwa to Bahariyya is easy to do these days. Go to the tourist office and the guy there will sort it out for you. It costs about E£500 which is not bad if you get a few people together but it's more comfortable if there is only two of you. The ride across the desert is amazing and if you're lucky the driver will stop half way and cook some vegetable stew and some mint tea which he may share with you!
The sleeper train from Cairo to Aswan is great. It's really smooth. However, the journey back is another cup of tea. The train is the same but it travels on different tracks. Be prepared for a lot of shaking, sharp track changing and thinking the train is going off the rails. You won't get much sleep, especially if you're on the top bunk. The toilets also stink really badly on the way back.
Julia Hopkins, UK (Nov 02)
Scams & Warnings
Giza is now back to its old ugly ways (on full strength!). The place is gorged out with 'guides' and if a guide does not get you then 'wardens' will. A man forced his way into our car at the ticket office demanding to be our guide - when we refused he declined to leave the car -
however our taxi driver got rid of him. Avoiding the huge posse of 'guides' in hot pursuit of us we were approached by another man. This man told us he was not a guide but a 'warden' and was part of the entry fee. Although we did not want his company we felt obliged to accept his 'escort' to the pyramid - where we were shown off the beaten track & out of site of the tourist police - whereupon my friend was practically abducted by another man who had been hidden from view but waiting on his camel. My friend was more or less forced onto his camel by the 'warden' and some young boys - and taken off without me - into the distance. About 10-15 minutes later she returned where a big argument was going on between her and the camel driver - who was refusing to let her down unless she paid him E£90! The driver was also trying to physically remove her purse from her bag and help himself. My friend only got off the camel by paying E£70. She was very frightened by her experience - the 'warden' also demanded more money from me for his 'services'.
My ruck sack was picked & my wallet removed from the zipped pocket inside my bag whilst on our way from the Egyptiam Museum to the Corniche to get a felucca. I felt someone touching me - turned round - and it was 2 well dressed middle aged women; one had my purse, the other had a handbag and was about to accept my wallet from the woman who had just taken it from my bag. I confronted the woman, held her firmly and demanded my wallet back. She was frightened and dropped my wallet and both women ran off down the subway. Be careful as this was a carefully planned & organised sting. It's just that I have lived in East London for 20 years and I'm very sensitive to people coming up close to me so I realised what was going on.
Whilst crossing the road on our way to the Egyptian Museum - a man approached us telling us he was a doctor working in England but on holiday in Cairo. He offered to help us cross the road - told us he knew a short cut - took us right out of our way - where we ended at his perfume shop. My friend and myself were not allowed to leave his shop (as he blocked the entrance) until we had paid £5 for a bottle of purfume - where upon he let us out of the shop but refused to take us back to the place he first met us, or tell us the way using our map.
"Yvette Jones, UK (Oct 03)
As we went to enter the Egyptian Museum what looked like the main gates to the garden were closed. As we looked around for the entrance (undoubtedly looking gormless and touristy) a kind gentleman with good english approached us. "Those closed gates are the entrance to the museum. I am the manager of the gardens here. I studied at Kew Gardens and have visited the Chelsea Flower Show [It's details like these that should make one suspicious but instead suck you in!]. I must tell you the museum is closed for lunchtime prayers. It will open at half past one." (It was 1245). He then left us alone for a few minutes while we debated what to do... still not noticing that the entrance was in fact via the blocked off road in front of the gardens. The man then returned and said "why don't you come and have a look at a little bazaar near my office, I'm just walking that way and can show it to you. It is a very good government bazaar and will give you an excellent price on perfumes and papyrus." Of course we obediently followed him and ended up buying some lotus oil (actually at a very good price!). Of course after we had drunk the ubiquitous sweet tea and chatted with the man at the bazaar we returned to the museum to find it was open and probably always had been. All in all a very good sting!
"Toby Brown & Farne Sinclair, UK (Aug 03)
At night it is very easy to get completely lost and separated from camp in the White Desert. Two of our safari party got lost on the same night in separate incidents. Both had wandered a short distance to use the 'loo' (behind an inselberg, of course) and became separated for hours. On a moonless night especially, the inselbergs disorientate campers into wandering in a directionless maze beyond the bounds of earshot (the inselbergs are excellent noise insulators!). One ended up stumbling into a neighbouring camp 700 metres away. The other became lost for 3 hours and only found his way back at dawn. Both were exasperated and could have done without such an unpleasant adventure, when they really should have been sleeping. It's a good idea to place a torch near the campsite pointed in the 'direction of travel' to act as a beacon for return after loo time!
"Neil McRae, Australia (Jul 03)
The water in Dahab is deadly. We stayed for 10 days only because we were both sick for about seven of them.
"Ray & Robyn Markham, UK (Feb 03)
I've just read throught the postcards and I noticed a note about the lionfish. I would just like to warn travellers that although beautiful, a sting from a lionfish will kill an adult in 7 hours. There is no antidote.
"Michelle & Roy Lei, UK (Jan 03)
On our first morning in Cairo, the guy at the metro window shortchanged us by E£10 which we only realized after having left the window. Despite being wisened to it, we got incorrect change a few other times. Its easy with the old and new 50 piastre notes floating around and they don't look that different from the E£50 notes!
"Caroline Pott, USA (Feb 03)
I was warned about harassement by Egyptian men, but I thought "well, it cannot be that bad". Every time I travel my friends and family make a big deal of it and I always have an amazing experience so I thought everything was going to be ok. However, I have to admit that the harassment of the men in Egypt was something beyond what I have experienced. It was HORRIBLE and I felt really uncomfortable. The first days (when I was with my Egyptian friend) men would say things but that's it. When I was own my own, they would try to touch me and my last day in Cairo was a nightmare because an Egyptian man grabbed my intimate parts and I couldn't get him off me and that time I was with a male friend. All the time I was in Egypt I was dressing conservatively, in fact, you didn't have any option but be well covered because it was winter and it was cold, so there ws not even the excuse that I was tempting them. I DO NOT RECOMMEND WOMEN TO TRAVEL ALONE IN EGYPT.
"Maria Daniela Zavala, Venezuela (Jan 03)
I just got back from Egypt at the end of December 2002. I was in Cairo and the delta region in several very small towns. Anyone traveling in this area should be aware of what is going on around them. The people are wonderful, but there are a few trouble-makers. I was lucky enough to be traveling with a friend who is a US citizen but was born in Egypt and has a property outside of El Mahalla. Twice we ran into rather sticky situations with some local "militia". I do not recommend traveling into the smaller villages unless you are with somebody you trust who knows the area and language, especially at night. But you should prepare yourself properly and get out of the the cities and see the true Egypt with the locals. You will never forget the experience and will forever want to return.
"Mike, USA (Jan 03)
Unfortunately, the touts, hustlers, etc. seem to be back around The Pyramids in full force. The only police are there to â??guardâ?? the pyramids and try to extract baksheesh themselves from the tourists. They invite you to cross the official barriers and then ask for money for the privilege. And so it goes on down from them! The hassle is pretty bad.
"Mark Hayman, USA (Jan 03)
At The Pyramids we were ripped off big time. After buying the E£20 tickets, a man named Mohammed took the tickets and guided us through the ticket control. He told us he worked for the Ministry of Tourism, that he was paid by the ministry and that he didn't guide people for the money. He said that he was different from the people "down there", meaning the people at the horse stables opposite the ticket office. He then proceeded to explain what we were going to do this afternoon. We would take camels or horses around The Pyramids to places where we could take beautiful pictures and then we would visit a lotus flower museum or something like that. Of course we had our doubts about this, but we went along with it.
A few moments later a camel appeared that two of us mounted, and Mohammed explained that we could choose between 3 trips, costing E£80, E£120 or E£180 per person. We didn't quite know what to expect and agreed to go for the largest trip. The trip was nice, riding the camels in the desert and the views of the pyramids were also nice but it was hugely overpriced. We paid E£180 each plus E£10 each as a tip for the camel driver as well.
The camel trip ended at the other entrance to the site, where Mohammed took us in a car, first to a papyrus museum (papyrus shop) and then to a lotus flower museum (essence shop). We had already paid too much on this day. In the essence shop everything was E£2 per gram and of course each of us bought a small 35g bottle. After this we returned to the pyramids site but since it was 5pm the site was closed. When Mohammed dropped us off to catch the bus back to the city he of course wanted his tip.
In the end we didn't see The Pyramids or the Sphinx up close and we paid a ridiculous amount for it. However, it was still a nice day and we learned a lot about how some people do business. We returned to the pyramids on the last day of our trip to do it the right way; we took our time and simply paid the E£20 ticket to visit the site on our own.
Alard de Boer, Netherlands (Dec 02)
We are experienced divers and we are very much into marine life protection. It is forbidden to take anything from the sea but in Sharm el-Sheikh you can find a lot of coral fragments by the road and far from the seaside. One day we picked up some of this dead coral and took it with us. On the way home we were stopped at the airport and they took my passport. They said that we would have to spend one additional week in Sharm. Explanations that we had found it on the road were useless. Then one of the soldiers took me to the side and said that if I paid him US$100 we wouldn't have any problems. We ended up paying 50 Egyptian pounds.
"Jurek Krupinski, Spain (Nov 02)
The taxi drivers in Hurghada are pulling a scam. You negotiate a price to your hotel - say E£5. Then when you come to pay they switch notes and claim you only gave them 50pt. This is really common - in one night at least 3 taxi drivers tried this on our group.
"Giles Cory, UK (Oct 02)
After being in Egypt we learned we had to be careful of scams everywhere! We went to a hotel and as we checked in at 3am, we didn't complain about a refilled water bottle we had in our room. We got charged for it when we left.
In Dahab I bought a waterproof camera in a "good" film store on the first floor, almost in the corner in front of the main beach. When I developed the film in my own country I only got two pictures because it was not original film and was a reused disposable camera.
"Lucila Bracco, Argentina (Oct 02)
Gems, Highlights & Attractions
Bellydance may be losing popularity in Egypt, it's gaining popularity in The US, Europe and Australia! In June the annual International Bellydance Festival is held in Cairo. Famous stars and choreographers give workshops, there's a lot to see, do and buy. The organiser has been a folklore dancer and a bellydance teacher for many years.
Daphne Huineman & Jochem Wijnands, Netherlands (Jan 03)
In Cairo the Blue Mosque is well worth a visit. It's totally delapidated, but the blue tiles that are visable are the same as the ones in the Islamic Arts museum. The best thing is, you can climb the minaret - and you get the most amazing views. You can see the pyramids and the citadel and the whole of modern Cairo, it's just fantastic. It's worth going for the climb too. In parts you are in total darkness, relying on the guide who is holding your hand. It's quite precarious and if you have any health or mobility problems totally impossible - but cool!
Fiona McCarthy, Ireland (Dec 02)
Our favourite market we found by sheer luck in Old Cairo, just north of the Greek Orthodox cemetery (in front of the bus station). It is a newly opened market in medieval style and the things they sell are so exquisite and beautiful you want to cry. The idea seems to be to preserve and promote old Egyptian handicrafts and to support various women's groups. The place itself is stunning and the best, there is no harassment. The small café with beautiful old furniture is an oasis of peace and quiet, perhaps because the market is only half-opened yet. Especially good for last minute shopping for gifts that you are definitely not likely to find in many other places.
Eva & Carl Cassegard, Sweden (Mar 02)
I would like to mention a little something about the strip of south Sinai that doesn't seem to receive a great deal of coverage in the guidebooks and is indeed suffering from the disastrous situation between Israel and Palestine. This stretch of coast runs between Taba and Nuweiba. It is a most exquisitely beautiful area with desert mountains that stretch as far as the eye can see, clear clean ocean and beaches, coral reefs and small to medium beach camps run by local Bedouins and Sudanese that have discovered a nice little niche here in the travellers market...It seems a shame that the Arab-Israeli situation in the Middle East has affected this area so much that many of these camps have not seen hide nor hair of travellers in over one year. Yes, a few have trickled through but mostly these lovely camps are empty.
There are facilities at most of the camps - fresh water, showers, toilets - and there are some small diving/snorkelling camps where you can hire gear to get out and explore the remarkable reefs. There are no hassles or sleazy men to deal with and your arrival is greeted with a nice pot of sweet tea and a chat which usually lasts quite some time (maybe because they've had only a few others to chat to for so long!) Also, the local Bedouins can arrange treks into the Sinai desert from one night to a week or however long you like - these expeditions are well worth it.
Sandie Hernandez, Australia (Jan 02)
Yarns, Fables & Anecdotes
Towel Origami - I am surprised to find no mention in the book about the prolific towel origami in Egypt. In both the Sinai hotels I have been to, each day my towels are arranged in swan formations, or as anteaters reading, taking photos of each other or smoking my cigarettes. It has clearly become a room cleaners ticket to a good tip.
Simon Hill, UK (May 03)
One day we went to the Coloured Canyon. We were advised that we would need a 4x4 car, but we decided to see what would happen with a normal car. We were quite a fan of the local off road drivers. We finally got to about 1.5 km from the Canyon and we got stuck in sand. It was a nice walk at midday to the Canyon, if you like the desert hot air. On the way back we were hauled for 50 m by a local driver and then we managed to drive our car back. If you don´t like so much adventure it is better get a 4x4.
Jurek Krupinski, Spain (Nov 02)
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