Guinea-Bissau
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Travel Tips
The bicycle adventure starts in Gabu!
The bikes: All bikes on offer in Gabu are Indian or Chinese and prices are CFA50000-65000. Although we did not see any bikes on sale in Banjul, it seems all bikes in Gabu are transported from Gambia and should cost only half price in Banjul.
In Gabu you will not find the usual kind of bicycle sales and repair shop. You will have to deal with 3 shops which all stick to their own business.
Bicycle Sellers: They purely sell the bikes like they would sell bananas. This means that the bikes are not ready for use when you buy them. There is still quite a bit of work to tension the spokes, connect the brakes, adjust the chain and gear system, and grease the steering and wheels. The bicycle seller will recommend you a repair man who can do all this, but you are very free (and recommended) to chose your own. The cost of the adjusting is NOT included in the bike price! Check very carefully if all bike parts are original and not second hand. There are NO bicycle shops in Gabu which sell second hand parts, but I suspect (one of my brake rubbers was used and the back wheel was of different quality and size than the front wheel) they change old parts for new on the new bikes. The fact that the bike is wrapped in paper does not mean anything. Female style bikes are not available, but mountain bikes are common. All bikes are quite heavy steel bikes.
Bicycle Repair Men: It is very important to chose this man well. We first tried the man who the bicycle seller took us to, but there were a bunch of 14 year olds working on our bikes who lost (and stole) more parts than they adjusted. They was also not able to get the spokes tensioned right. You should also stay with your bike the whole time when they adjust or repair it. Contrary to the West, where repairmen don't like to be watched the whole time, in Guinea-Bissau they only work when you are there. This is probably because in the end, you agree on a price with them based on the time they have spent on the work, not on the work itself. Prices are very cheap, they expect CFA500-1000 per hour; the adjustment of a new bike should be about 2500CFA. Bicycle repair men don't have or sell parts; even for the nuts and iron they use, you have to pay extra. If you want to have extra parts (bell, reflectors, back carrier) put on, you should buy (and bargain) them yourself in a bicycle parts shop. Bicycle repair man will get a bit confused if you force them to buy and install the stuff, and as they don't know the prices of parts they will quote a price that is too high to be sure.
The Parts Sellers: There are about 10 shops which sell parts and everyone has a few "exclusive" parts. There is only one shop which sells reflectors and one shop which sells modern straps. Most things are available, but we could not find helmets, lights, back mirror, bicycle bags or a front bucket.
Hans Rossel, Belgium (Oct 03)
Gems, Highlights & Attractions
Gabu is a very busy and lively market town where you can buy about everything in the main street, which is lined with shops and street food. The numerous bicycle shops made us decide to buy a bicycle and continue our trip on two wheels. Contrary to what Lonely Planet says, the market opens around 10am and closes at around 6pm. After that time the candles are lighted (there is NO electricity!) and there is a bit of basic Senegalese food here and there, available for the truck drivers who have to spend the night here.
Hans Rossel, Belgium (Oct 03)
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