Things to do in South Of Beirut
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Al-Bass site
Al-Bass site On the landward side of Tyre, about 20 minutes on foot from the other sites, is the enormous Al-Bass Archaeological site. A colonnaded east-west road, possibly a continuation of the road at Al-Mina site, takes you through a vast funerary complex containing dozens of highly decorated marble and stone sarcophagi.
The more elaborate have reliefs depicting scenes from Greek mythology and Homeric epics. Most are from the 2nd and 3rd century AD, but some date back as far as the 2nd century BC, and there are Byzantine coffins from as late as the 6th century.A huge, triple-bay monumental archway stands further along the colonnaded street. Originally the gateway to th…
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Souqs
The old covered souqs are the city's highlight, lying between the Sea Castle and the Castle of St Louis. This is where, in labyrinthine alleyways, shopkeepers ply their trades in workshops the same way they have done for centuries. Officially there are some 60 listed historic sites here, many of them in ruins, though renovation work is ongoing.
Scattered throughout the souqs are several coffeehouses and plenty of tiny canteens dishing out cheap, simple and tasty Arabic dishes; there are also a huge number of pastry shops where you can buy hot bread and biscuits. The delicious sanioura (a light crumbly biscuit) is a speciality of Sidon and the souqs are also famous for pro…
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Khan al-Franj
Khan al-Franj is the largest, most beautiful and best preserved of the many khans built by 17th century Fakhreddine, and was donated to the French by Fakhreddine to encourage trade relations. The khans all followed the same basic design, with a large rectangular central courtyard, fountain, covered arcades (used for stables and storage) and a galleried second storey providing accommodation for merchants and travellers.
In the 19th century, the Khan al-Franj was Sidon's principal khanand the city's centre of economic activity, also housing the French consul. Today, it has been painstakingly restored courtesy of the Hariri Foundation.
The activities of the foundation, many o…
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Sea Castle
Built by the Crusaders in 1228, the Sea Castle, connected to the mainland by a fortified Arab stone causeway, sits around 80m offshore on a small island that was formerly the site of a temple to Melkart, the Phoenician version of Hercules. One of many coastal castles built by the Crusaders, it was largely destroyed by the Mamluks to prevent the Crusaders from returning to the region, but its renovation was ordered by Fakhreddine in the 17th century.
The building consists of two towers joined together by a wall. The rectangular west tower, to the left of the entrance, is the best preserved, measuring 21m by 17m, and has a large vaulted room scattered with old carved capita…
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Al-Mina excavations
In an impressive setting leading down to the ancient Egyptian (south) harbour, the Al-Mina excavations incorporate remains of Roman and Byzantine Tyre. Upon entering, a double line of columns to the right is thought to be part of the agora (market place). Further down is a long colonnaded road leading directly to what was the southern harbour. The marble sections of the pavement date back to the Roman era, while the black-and-white mosaic street is Byzantine.
To the right of the road, below a modern cemetery, are the remains of an unusual, rectangular arena, with five rows of terraced seating cut in to limestone. In the centre was a pool that may have been used for some k…
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Great (Omari) Mosque
Facing the northern tip of the harbour is the Great (Omari) Mosque, said to be one of the best examples of 13th-century Islamic religious architecture. Originally a fortified Knights Hospitaller structure and converted to a mosque after the Crusaders were driven out of the Holy Land, it was heavily damaged during the civil war and underwent a lengthy restoration. The main prayer hall once housed the Church of St John of the Hospitallers and its original walls can still be seen.
There are two entrances to the mosque: one down a maze of covered streets in the souqs to the north of the mosque; the other on the eastern side of the building (once the site of a palace built by …
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Musée Du Savon
Although Tripoli may take credit for being the centre of the traditional soap-making industry, Sidon has Lebanon's first museum, courtesy of the Audi Foundation, dedicated to the craft. (The Audis is a wealthy family that is committed to the regeneration of the old city. The foundation frequently organises cultural events.)
Located in the Old City in the Khan al-Saboun, a 13th-century stone building adapted for use as a soap factory in the 19th century, it once produced soap to meet the needs of the hammams (bathhouses).The well laid-out galleries and trilingual (Arabic, English, French) explanations take you through the entire soap-making process - referred to in the mus…
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Castle of St Louis
The ruins of this once-impressive castle stand on a mound to the south of town. The present structure dates back to the Crusaders, who built on the site of an earlier Fatimid fortress - as reflected in the local name, Qala'at al-Muizz (Fortress of Al-Muizz) after the Fatimid caliph Al-Muizz li-Din Allah, who fortified the site. The English-French name comes from Louis IX, who rebuilt and then occupied the fortress when he retook Sidon from the Ayyubids in 1253.
After the Arabs retook the city it was restored, but it later suffered at the hands of the Mamluks. This, coupled with centuries of pilfering, has left the structure in poor condition.The hill on which the castle i…
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Fishing Harbour & Souqs
Small, but bustling with activity, the fishing harbour is the most picturesque part of Tyre, with its brightly coloured wooden boats and old-fashioned boat repair shops. There are also a couple of fish restaurants and cafés that overlook the water and make a good vantage point for watching the scene.
Behind them, running from east to west, lie Tyre's Ottoman-era souqs, which aren't as extensive as those of Sidon and Tripoli, but are still lively and interesting to explore.
As you walk around the northern side of the harbour, you come to the city's Christian quarter, where there are six churches (one ruined) reflecting Lebanon's multitude of Christian denominations. They a…
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Tyre Beach Nature Reserve
Established in 1998, this small reserve - cut in half by the Rachidiye refugee camp - is an important sanctuary for birds, endangered turtles, bats and other wildlife, as well as containing a beautiful stretch of golden sandy beach. The reserve is made up of two 'zones': the conservation area, which is open to the public every day except Sundays, and the recreation area, open all the time.
There is no entrance fee, but a donation is highly appreciated and goes towards continuing the reserve's valuable work. The northern portion of the reserve is open to the public for swimming. For more information, including hiking and route maps, visit www.destinationlebanon.gov.lb and …
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Bab al-Saray Mosque
The oldest mosque in the city is Bab al-Saray Mosque, which dates back to 1201. Located just east of the old Bab al-Saray (Saray Gate), it boasts the largest dome in Sidon and an enormous supporting column made from black stone, allegedly imported from Italy. The beautiful stonework has just been restored through a waqf (religious endowment).
The mosque sits in the corner of a square, which has a pleasant outdoor corner café built on the site of the original saray (palace). It may not always be open to non-Muslims, so check before entering and, as with the Great (Omari) Mosque, remember to dress appropriately.
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Murex Hill
Murex Hill is an artificial hill about 100m high and 50m long, partially covered by a cemetery. This is Sidon's ancient garbage dump, largely formed from the crushed remains of hundreds of thousands of murex shells, the by-product of the city's famed dye. It took 10,000 murex molluscs to make just one gram of purple dye which, in Roman times, was worth three times as much as gold when used on silk. Traces of the shells can be seen on the embankment heading south from the Castle of St Louis. Located just south of the Castle of St Louis.
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Seaside Road
The best place for cheap eats is the stretch of felafel, seafood and mezze joints surrounding the Al-Qualaa Hotel on the seaside road, opposite the Sea Castle. A very popular local choice here is Abou Ramy, though all the places offer comparable quality and prices and are packed at weekends. Wandering the souq, you'll also smell tempting, cinnamon-tinged aromas wafting from tiny eating establishments. Follow your nose to a cheap and delicious lunch in its atmospheric hidden alleyways.
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Holy Cross Cathedral
About a five-minute walk to the north of Al-Mina site, the remains of the Holy Cross Cathedral can be seen from the road. Foundations and granite columns are all that remain of the 12th-century building, giving scant indication of its importance in Crusader times. Beneath and around the cathedral is a network of Roman and Byzantine roads and other buildings, one of which may have been the original temple of Melkart, the ancient god of the city.
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Le Petit Phoenicien
Also known locally as 'Hadeed', after the family that owns and runs it, this is considered the best place for seafood in Tyre. With a nice location overlooking the water and friendly staff, it's a great place to linger over a long, languid lunch while watching the fishing boats. Along the same lines, though without the sea view, the Salinas restaurant, just next to Rest House, comes highly recommended by locals.
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Rest House
Sidon's upscale option is this government-owned venue, overlooking the Sea Castle. It's a restored Ottoman khan, with vaulted ceilings and inlaid marble and stonework. The shaded garden terrace is on the edge of the sea and has a nice view of Sidon's seafront. Food here is traditional Lebanese, with good mezze, seafood and Lebanese wine.
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Tyros Restaurant
This is a huge place that's extremely popular with locals, especially on weekends when it's advisable to drop in during the afternoon to book a good table in advance. It has a great atmosphere, the food is delicious and there's frequently live classical Arabic music on Saturday nights.
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Al-Midane Café
A great choice for a drink, snack or nargileh on Deir al-Qamar's main square. Open later in summer if the clientele is in the mood, it serves up decent club sandwiches and salads, and on weekends and summer evenings has live music until the wee hours.
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Tanit Restaurant
Both the restaurant and its bar are very popular with locals and off-duty Unifil troops. It serves up an eclectic range of cuisine, from Chinese stir-fry to steak and salads. Located just around the corner from the port.
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Debbané Palace
Created by the wealthy Debbané family, this interesting 18th-century palace is tucked away in a narrow souq alleyway on your left as you head from the harbour road to the soap museum. It's well worth a look-in.
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Abou Ramy
Abou Ramy is one of the best places to grab a cheap eat. It's one of the many felafel, seafood and mezze joints surrounding the Al-Qualaa Hotel on the seaside road, opposite the Sea Castle.
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Patisserie Kanaan
To sample sanioura, a speciality of Sidon, try Patisserie Kanaan a decent place for a rest and a cup of coffee.
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