Things to do in Tripoli (Trablous)
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Palm Islands Reserve
Six nautical miles north west of Tripoli lies the Palm Islands Reserve, which consists of three islands and covers a rough area of 5 sq km of land and sea. Declared a protected site by Unesco in 1992 and dedicated as a nature reserve in 1993, the islands are a haven for endangered loggerhead turtles, rabbits, rare monk seals and over 300 species of migratory birds that stop here to rest and nest. Of these, seven are considered threatened worldwide, while 11 are rare in Europe.
The largest of the islands, Nakheel (Palm Island), supports most of the turtles and contains some 2,500 palm trees, with paths laid out for visitors. There are beaches from which you can swim betwe…
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Citadel of Raymond de Saint-Gilles
The city is dominated by the vast Citadel of Raymond de Saint-Gilles , known as Qala'at Sanjil in Arabic. In AD 1102 Raymond de Saint-Gilles occupied the hill which overlooks the valley, the town and the coast. He decided to transform this position, which he called Mont Pelerin (Mt Pilgrim), into a fortress. The original castle was burnt down in 1289, and again on several subsequent occasions.
It was rebuilt (1307-08) by Emir Essendemir Kurgi, and was added to right up until the 19th century. As a result, only the foundation stones remain of the original construction.The first entrance is a huge Ottoman gateway, over which is an engraving from Süleyman the Magnificent, wh…
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Burj Es-Sabaa (Lion Tower)
The only monument of real interest in Al-Mina is the Lion Tower, a miniature fortress at the eastern end of the harbour. Named after the bas-relief lions that used to line the facade, the building dates from the end of the 15th century and was probably built by Mamluk sultan Qaitbey to protect the coastline against attack from the Ottomans.
It's an exceptional example of Mamluk military architecture, with a striking black-and-white striped portico. The whole of the ground floor is one vast chamber with traces of paintings and armorial carvings. The upper floor has eight rooms opening onto a central hall and the roof terrace has great views. Lion Tower is separated from A…
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Taynal Mosque
Taynal Mosque is one of the most outstanding examples of Islamic religious architecture in Tripoli. Built in 1336 by Sayf ed-Din Taynal on the ruins of an earlier Carmelite church, it still has a partially preserved Carmelite nave in the first prayer hall. Other recycled elements, including two rows of Egyptian granite columns topped with late-Roman capitals, were taken from an earlier monument.
The simplicity of the bare stone walls contrasts beautifully with some of the Mamluk decorative elements, in particular the entrance to the second prayer hall, a masterpiece of alternating black-and-white bands of stone with Arabic inscriptions, marble panels with geometric design…
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Hammam al-Jadid
While certainly not new - Hammam al-Jadid was built around 1740 - it was in use until the 1970s and is the city's best-preserved and largest hammam (with the exception of the still-functioning Hammam al-Abd). It was donated as a gift to the city by As'ad Pasha al-Azem, governor of Damascus, and no expense was spared in its construction. Draped over the portal is a representation of a 14-link chain carved from a single block of stone.
A huge, glass-pierced dome dominates the main chamber and brings a dim light to the pool and fountain below. The floor and fountain are laid with slabs of marble in contrasting colours. Several smaller chambers, also with glass-pierced domes,…
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Madrassa al-Qartawiyya
Attached to the east side of the Great Mosque is Madrassa al-Qartawiyya, which was built by a Mamluk governor of the same name in the early 1300s, over the baptistery of the old cathedral. Famed for its fine workmanship, the madrassa has an elegant façade of black-and-white stone facings, topped by a honeycomb-patterned half-dome above the portal. The back wall is also made with black-and-white stone and has some beautiful Arabic inscriptions.
Inside, the prayer hall is topped by Tripoli's only oval dome and has a finely decorated south-facing wall and minbar (pulpit).
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madrassas of Al-Machhad and Al-Shamsiyat
From the top of the citadel, walk down the set of steps directly in front of you. When you reach the street to the street, turn left then first right and walk along Rue Rachid Rida. Take the first right and soon you'll see the 14th-century madrassas of Al-Machhad and Al-Shamsiyat , adjacent to the entrance of the Great Mosque. Opposite the entrance are two more 14th-century madrassas, Al-Khairiah Hassan and Al-Nouriyat.
The latter is still in use and has distinctive black-and-white stonework around its doors and windows, and a beautiful inlaid mihrab.
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Great Mosque
The Great Mosque is built on the ruins of a 12th-century Crusader cathedral, St Mary of the Tower. Parts of the cathedral were worked into the mosque's construction after it was destroyed by the Mamluks. Through the magnificent entrance is a large courtyard, surrounded by porticos on three sides and a domed, vaulted prayer hall on the fourth.
Construction of the Great Mosque began in 1294 and was completed 21 years later. The mosque's northern entrance and the minaret, a distinctive Lombard-style tower, are likely remnants of the original building.
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'46
Named after the year the owner's father opened the restaurant, '46 has a solid Italian/international menu. The friendly waiters, relaxed atmosphere and large windows overlooking the Corniche make it a cut above Tripoli's other dining choices. Try the rich, spicy pasta Arrabiata; the 'Rockford filet' - allegedly involving steak and blue cheese - is excellent. The entrance is at the back of the building; you won't miss the restaurant when cruising the Corniche.
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Burtasiya Mosque and Madrassa
The Burtasiya Mosque and Madrassa is situated by the river, across the street from the eastern entrance to the Khan al-Khayyatin (Tailors' Market). Built by the Kurdish prince Sharafeddin Issa ben Omar al-Burtasi in 1315, its square, towerlike minaret and black-and-white stonework are particularly fine. Inside, the intricately decorated and inlaid mihrab makes the visit worthwhile. Look for the mosaic in its half-dome.
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fast-food vendors
Around the clock tower and branching out into the old city are plenty of fast-food vendors, selling boiled sweet corn from pushcarts and felafel from street stalls. If you're planning on taking a picnic out of town, the souqs are the place to pick up fresh fruit, bread, cheese and olives. Tucked away in tiny alleyways there are also a few small hole-in-the-wall canteens serving up cheap shwarma and other simple dishes.
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Corniche
Along the Corniche in Al-Mina are ranged a number of ice cream parlours, heaving with locals on weekend evenings, whilst a straggle of floating coffee houses dispense hot drinks and snacks on the water itself. In the small streets behind the '46 restaurant are a number of nice bars that offer probably the most fun evening dining in town, all with the same sorts of mezze menus, along with pizzas, pastas and grills.
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Hammam al-Abd
Close by the Madrassa al-Tuwashiyat (on Souq al-Sayyaghin) is Tripoli's only functioning bathhouse, Hammam al-Abd , built in the late 17th century and situated at the end of a narrow alleyway. Sadly, it's only for men (unless you're travelling with a group of women and can arrange to reserve the entire bathhouse in advance). Expect to negotiate an extra fee if you'd like a massage thrown in.
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Souq al-Haraj
At the northern end of the old town is Souq al-Haraj, which is thought to have been built on the site of a Crusader church. Its high, vaulted ceiling is supported by 14 granite columns, two at the centre and 12 ranged around the sides, which are probably a leftover from the earlier structure. Today the souq specialises in mats, pillows and mattresses.
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boats for hire
Along the seafront range lots of boats for hire waiting to take visitors to the small islands just offshore. A return trip takes about two hours (with enough time for a swim). If you're part of a group, you can negotiate to hire the entire boat (between 10 and 12 people). A trip to the Palm Islands Reserve should be negotiated separately.
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Rafaat Hallab & Sons
This is the place to sample Tripoli's famous sweets. You're sure to come across a number of other branches all over town, dispensing, amongst other delights, gooey, sticky baklava, pistachio-topped asmaleyye, crunchy filo aash el-bulbul (nightingale's nests), and tea or coffee with which to wash them down.
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Souq an-Nahhassin
Exploring the old souqs is the best way to shop in Tripoli. The Souq an-Nahhassin has an array of brass goods. Even if you don't want to buy, it is well worth a visit just to see the metalworkers making pieces by hand in the same way that they have done for centuries. Note that many shops in the souqs close on Friday.
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Hammam al-Nouri
Opposite the Al-Khairiah Hassan and Al-Nouriyat madrassas, you should see the entrance to the now derelict Hammam al-Nouri , a large public bath built around 1333. If you ask politely, the owner of the juice stand in front of the entrance should let you past to have a wander around the remains of the hammam beyond.
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Madrassa al-Tuwashiyat
Madrassa al-Tuwashiyat, a law school with an attached mausoleum that dates back to around 1471, is on the main street of the gold souq (Souq al-Sayyaghin). Built of sandstone in alternating black-and-white patterns, it has an unusual, finely decorated portal that towers above the building's ornate façade.
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Café Fahim
This cavernous old café on the square echoes atmospherically to the clack of backgammon pieces from groups of old men perched on plastic chairs and often ensconced in a cloud of nargileh smoke. The outdoor terrace is the best place in town for a nice cup of tea and some serious people-watching.
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Khan al-Askar
Just around the corner from Souq al-Haraj (at the northern end of the old town) is Khan al-Askar, which consists of two buildings joined by a vaulted passage. It is thought to have been built in the late 13th or early 14th century, and was restored in the 18th century.
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international chain restaurants
On Rue Riad Al-Solh, in the area around the cinema, there are plenty of national and international chain restaurants including Pizza Hut, Pain d'Or and the like, intermingled with local concerns offering up cheap grills and mezze.
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Silver Shore
Easily the best seafood restaurant in town, this place specialises in dishes accompanied by its own secret-recipe hot sauce. Strangely, it closes fairly early in the evening, but makes a great choice for a long lunch.
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Al-Muallaq Mosque
Al-Muallaq Mosque is a small, 14th-century mosque that gets its name from its unusual position upstairs on the second floor of the building. It has a simple interior and leads down to a courtyard garden.
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Souq as-Sayyaghin
Exploring the old souqs is the best way to shop in Tripoli. If you are looking for jewellery, there is a whole souq devoted to gold, Souq as-Sayyaghin. Note that many shops in the souqs close on Friday.
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