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Introducing Tripoli (Trablous)

Tripoli, 85km north of Beirut, is Lebanon’s second largest city and the north’s main port and trading centre. Famous for its medieval Mamluk architecture, including a large souq area considered the best in Lebanon, it might nevertheless seem a little run-down and provincial if you’ve come direct from Beirut. However, the city certainly warrants a day or so of souq-wandering and sweets-sampling, Tripoli’s main speciality being haliwat al-jibn, a teeth-jarringly sweet confection made from curd cheese and served with syrup.

Be warned, you won’t have much luck finding a drink in town. For a beer on a hot day, head to Al-Mina, the port area 3km west of town.