Gemmayzeh Café

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  • Address
    Rue Gouraud, Gemmayzeh
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Lonely Planet review

This vast and beautiful Beirut institution, dating back to Ottoman times, is one of the best places to hear live Arabic music in Beirut. Generally consisting of an oud (lute) player and singer, you should make a booking for the live music and dinner - the café has a great mezze menu, but it's worth popping in here any time of day for a strong coffee and a quick round of backgammon.

Note that there's no name on the outside of the café but, bigger and more imposing than all the other places on Rue Gouraud, it's hard to miss.