We just loved historic Cēsis, Latvia's most Latvian town. Decidedly romantic, Cēsis is made for wandering. The main drag, Rīgas iela, has loads of character and is lined with old tan and brown stone buildings. Check out the crumbling castle, the country's oldest brewery (although the famous beer is now produced in a slick facility outside town) or meander down to the small murky lake and nap on grassy grounds shaded by ancient trees. About 30km northeast of Sigulda, Cēsis was once the headquarters of the Livonian Order. Open-air concerts are often held in summer on the castle grounds.