Things to do in Southern Laos
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Sinouk Coffee Shop
In a renovated French shophouse this café is best-known for its coffee, sold both in the cup and by the bag (from US$2 for 250g). They also sell Beerlao and have a small menu of Western dishes.
reviewed
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Khon Phapheng
South of Don Khong the Mekong River features a 13km stretch of powerful rapids with several sets of cascades. The largest, and by far the most awesome anywhere along the Mekong, is Khon Phapheng, near the eastern shore of the Mekong not far from Ban Thakho. Khon Phapheng isn’t as beautiful as the towering waterfalls of the Bolaven Plateau or the fairytale pools of Tat Kuang Si near Luang Prabang. But Khon Phapheng is pure, unrestrained aggression as millions of litres of water crash over the rocks and into Cambodia every second. Especially when the Mekong is at full flood this is a spectacular sight, and it’s probably the most visited site in Laos for Thai tourists, who a…
reviewed
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That Ing Hang
Thought to have been built in the mid-16th century, this well-proportioned, 9m-high thâat is the second holiest religious edifice in southern Laos after Wat Phu Champasak. Built on or near the spot where Chao Fa Ngum’s forces were based during the takeover of Muang Sawa in the mid-14th century, That Ing Hang may occupy an earlier site sacred to the Si Khotabun kingdom. The Buddha is believed to have stopped here when he was sick during his wanderings back in ancient times. He rested by leaning (ing) on a hang tree (thus Ing Hang). A relic of the Buddha’s spine is reputed to be kept inside the thâat.
reviewed
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Savannakhet Provincial Museum
In a French-era mansion on expansive grounds is the mildly interesting Savannakhet Provincial Museum. In the front yard are a few rusting artillery pieces aimed at Thailand and the barely recognisable remains of an American-built T-28, the main combat aircraft of the Royal Lao Army. Inside is more rusting ordnance, but otherwise this is a shrine to Kaysone Phomvihane, who was born nearby. There are hundreds of photos, most with basic English captions, and if you’re interested in Kaysone or in the beatification of socialist heroes, then it’s fascinating. The curator is rarely there at 8am so come later.
reviewed
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Champasak Historical Heritage Museum
The Champasak Historical Heritage Museum has a few artefacts and a lot of boring documents chronicling the history of the province. Once you get past the Lao and Communist hammer-and-sickle flags at the entrance you’re in the best part of the museum – three very old Dong Son bronze drums and striking 7th-century sandstone lintels found at Uo Moung (Tomo Temple). The simple textile and jewellery collection from the Nyaheun, Suay and Laven groups is also interesting for its large iron ankle bracelets and ivory ear plugs since these are rarely worn nowadays.
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Riverside Snack and Drink Vendors
The riverside snack and drink vendors are great for sundowners. Beerlao and ice is the most common purchase but fresh tąm màak-hung (green papaya salad) and a range of grilled meats are usually on hand. Look for the friendly family of long-haired ladies who run one of these places; one who speaks English apologised to us this time for cutting her hair from calf-length to merely waist-length. Baw pen nyǎng, we say, it’s still pretty impressive.
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Wat Sainyaphum
The oldest and largest monastery in Savan, with more than 100 novices and monks in residence, Wat Sainyaphum is thought to have first been built in 1542, though most of what you see today dates from the 20th century. It’s a pleasant place to wander, and the monks may be willing to show you around and practise their English in the process. Look for the workshop near the river entrance – it’s a veritable golden-Buddha production line.
reviewed
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Wat Rattanalangsi
Wat Rattanalangsi was built in 1951 and houses a monks’ primary school. The sǐm (ordination hall) is unique in that it has glass windows (most windows in Lao temples are unglazed). Other structures include a rather gaudy Brahma shrine, a modern sǎaláa lóng thám (sermon hall) and a shelter containing a 15m reclining Buddha backed by Jataka (stories of the Buddha’s past lives) paintings.
reviewed
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Clinic Keo Ou Done
- Pakse, Laos
- Activities › Other
The professional and popular massage and sauna Clinic Keo Ou Done has an air-con massage room and herbal sauna segregated by gender. A massage (highly recommended!), usually with medicated balms, costs US$2.50 per hour. Unlimited use of the herbal sauna costs US$0.80. To get there, take a jumbo east on Rte 13. About 100m before the Km 3 marker, turn right and follow the ‘Massage Sauna’ signs another 800m.
reviewed
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Seng Ahloune Restaurant
The Seng Ahloune is as popular for its delicious comfort food, including great fish and chips (US$3), as its prime location over the river just south of the bridge. Vietnamese spring rolls and curries are other dishes worth trying on the epic menu. Recommended – except during the tour-group rush hour around noon. It should have four relatively plush rooms (US$10 including breakfast) open by the time you read this.
reviewed
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Museum
In a colonial-era building, this small but well-presented museum displays some of the finds from the five sites where dinosaur bones or footprints have been found. The curators’ unfailing enthusiasm is infectious and they’re willing to use their limited English or French on you. It’s good Lao-style fun.
reviewed
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Monkey Bar
Almost every place serves cold Beerlao and a range of alternatives. There’s also the falang -run Monkey Bar, in the heart of Ban Hua Det, which had the best mix of music when we passed and organises occasional barbecue trips to surrounding islands. It’s especially popular late.
reviewed
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Xuan Mai Restaurant
Xuan Mai serves top-notch fǒe (US$0.80; the chicken fǒe is best), khào pûn (white flour noodles with sweet-spicy sauce), fruit shakes and even garlic bread. Open until midnight, it’s the best place for a late feed.
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Khem Khong Restaurant
On the Mekong just south of town, this is one of several floating restaurants and has a well-earned reputation for excellent seafood. It’s best in a group so you can share several dishes, especially the pîng pąa (grilled fish).
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Ketmany Restaurant
Ketmany serves decent European food and very good Vietnamese dishes, though many are not on the English menu so you’ll need to ask by name. It also has good ice cream and packed-with-processed-meat Western breakfasts (US$2).
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Lao-Paris Restaurant
In an old Chinese shophouse near the river the mostly reliable Lao, Vietnamese and French offerings here make this a travellers’ favourite. Service is rarely enthusiastic, but the portions are big and prices reasonable.
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Savan Restaurant
In an oddly romantic outdoor setting with private compartments, this place is all about sìin daat (Korean-style barbecue). There’s no English menu but it’s easy enough to just point and shoot.
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Jasmine Restaurant
Jasmine Restaurant is cheap, offers good service and the food, including loads of vegetarian dishes, is invariably tasty if a little over-enthusiastic on the masala.
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Dragon
When we hit the town Dragon was the place of choice for young Savannakhet hipsters, though the deafeningly loud karaoke might not be so appealing to Western tastes.
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Done Khong Guest House & Restaurant
This place serves tasty Lao dishes such as làap (US$1.50), the mysterious ‘soup with chicken gallingly root’ (US$1.50), and various rice dishes.
reviewed
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Moonlight Ranch
Run by a quirky Lao-Danish couple, this place has become popular with travellers and expats seeking comfort food. The hamburgers, in particular, aren’t bad.
reviewed
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Chanthounma’s Restaurant
Chanthounma’s ‘good food to suit your mood’ lives up to the advertising, and along with charming Chanthounma, should brighten any mood.
reviewed
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Au Rendez-Vous Restaurant
This small and clean restaurant serves a few decent Western dishes with its predominantly Asian menu, and has a good reputation for Western breakfasts.
reviewed
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Talat Savan Xai
The large and lively Talat Savan Xai, north of the centre near the bus terminal, is the centre of much of the city’s commerce.
reviewed
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Chelsea Fc Club
You’re unlikely to find Roman Abramovich partying at the Chelsea FC Club. On quiet nights it closes early.
reviewed
