Sights in Southern Laos
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Khon Phapheng
South of Don Khong the Mekong River features a 13km stretch of powerful rapids with several sets of cascades. The largest, and by far the most awesome anywhere along the Mekong, is Khon Phapheng, near the eastern shore of the Mekong not far from Ban Thakho. Khon Phapheng isn’t as beautiful as the towering waterfalls of the Bolaven Plateau or the fairytale pools of Tat Kuang Si near Luang Prabang. But Khon Phapheng is pure, unrestrained aggression as millions of litres of water crash over the rocks and into Cambodia every second. Especially when the Mekong is at full flood this is a spectacular sight, and it’s probably the most visited site in Laos for Thai tourists, who a…
reviewed
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That Ing Hang
Thought to have been built in the mid-16th century, this well-proportioned, 9m-high thâat is the second holiest religious edifice in southern Laos after Wat Phu Champasak. Built on or near the spot where Chao Fa Ngum’s forces were based during the takeover of Muang Sawa in the mid-14th century, That Ing Hang may occupy an earlier site sacred to the Si Khotabun kingdom. The Buddha is believed to have stopped here when he was sick during his wanderings back in ancient times. He rested by leaning (ing) on a hang tree (thus Ing Hang). A relic of the Buddha’s spine is reputed to be kept inside the thâat.
reviewed
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A
Savannakhet Provincial Museum
In a French-era mansion on expansive grounds is the mildly interesting Savannakhet Provincial Museum. In the front yard are a few rusting artillery pieces aimed at Thailand and the barely recognisable remains of an American-built T-28, the main combat aircraft of the Royal Lao Army. Inside is more rusting ordnance, but otherwise this is a shrine to Kaysone Phomvihane, who was born nearby. There are hundreds of photos, most with basic English captions, and if you’re interested in Kaysone or in the beatification of socialist heroes, then it’s fascinating. The curator is rarely there at 8am so come later.
reviewed
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B
Champasak Historical Heritage Museum
The Champasak Historical Heritage Museum has a few artefacts and a lot of boring documents chronicling the history of the province. Once you get past the Lao and Communist hammer-and-sickle flags at the entrance you’re in the best part of the museum – three very old Dong Son bronze drums and striking 7th-century sandstone lintels found at Uo Moung (Tomo Temple). The simple textile and jewellery collection from the Nyaheun, Suay and Laven groups is also interesting for its large iron ankle bracelets and ivory ear plugs since these are rarely worn nowadays.
reviewed
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C
Wat Sainyaphum
The oldest and largest monastery in Savan, with more than 100 novices and monks in residence, Wat Sainyaphum is thought to have first been built in 1542, though most of what you see today dates from the 20th century. It’s a pleasant place to wander, and the monks may be willing to show you around and practise their English in the process. Look for the workshop near the river entrance – it’s a veritable golden-Buddha production line.
reviewed
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D
Wat Rattanalangsi
Wat Rattanalangsi was built in 1951 and houses a monks’ primary school. The sǐm (ordination hall) is unique in that it has glass windows (most windows in Lao temples are unglazed). Other structures include a rather gaudy Brahma shrine, a modern sǎaláa lóng thám (sermon hall) and a shelter containing a 15m reclining Buddha backed by Jataka (stories of the Buddha’s past lives) paintings.
reviewed
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E
Museum
In a colonial-era building, this small but well-presented museum displays some of the finds from the five sites where dinosaur bones or footprints have been found. The curators’ unfailing enthusiasm is infectious and they’re willing to use their limited English or French on you. It’s good Lao-style fun.
reviewed
