Things to do in Savannakhet
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Savannakhet Provincial Museum
In a French-era mansion on expansive grounds is the mildly interesting Savannakhet Provincial Museum. In the front yard are a few rusting artillery pieces aimed at Thailand and the barely recognisable remains of an American-built T-28, the main combat aircraft of the Royal Lao Army. Inside is more rusting ordnance, but otherwise this is a shrine to Kaysone Phomvihane, who was born nearby. There are hundreds of photos, most with basic English captions, and if you’re interested in Kaysone or in the beatification of socialist heroes, then it’s fascinating. The curator is rarely there at 8am so come later.
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Riverside Snack and Drink Vendors
The riverside snack and drink vendors are great for sundowners. Beerlao and ice is the most common purchase but fresh tąm màak-hung (green papaya salad) and a range of grilled meats are usually on hand. Look for the friendly family of long-haired ladies who run one of these places; one who speaks English apologised to us this time for cutting her hair from calf-length to merely waist-length. Baw pen nyǎng, we say, it’s still pretty impressive.
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Wat Sainyaphum
The oldest and largest monastery in Savan, with more than 100 novices and monks in residence, Wat Sainyaphum is thought to have first been built in 1542, though most of what you see today dates from the 20th century. It’s a pleasant place to wander, and the monks may be willing to show you around and practise their English in the process. Look for the workshop near the river entrance – it’s a veritable golden-Buddha production line.
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Wat Rattanalangsi
Wat Rattanalangsi was built in 1951 and houses a monks’ primary school. The sǐm (ordination hall) is unique in that it has glass windows (most windows in Lao temples are unglazed). Other structures include a rather gaudy Brahma shrine, a modern sǎaláa lóng thám (sermon hall) and a shelter containing a 15m reclining Buddha backed by Jataka (stories of the Buddha’s past lives) paintings.
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Museum
In a colonial-era building, this small but well-presented museum displays some of the finds from the five sites where dinosaur bones or footprints have been found. The curators’ unfailing enthusiasm is infectious and they’re willing to use their limited English or French on you. It’s good Lao-style fun.
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Lao-Paris Restaurant
In an old Chinese shophouse near the river the mostly reliable Lao, Vietnamese and French offerings here make this a travellers’ favourite. Service is rarely enthusiastic, but the portions are big and prices reasonable.
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Savan Restaurant
In an oddly romantic outdoor setting with private compartments, this place is all about sìin daat (Korean-style barbecue). There’s no English menu but it’s easy enough to just point and shoot.
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Dragon
When we hit the town Dragon was the place of choice for young Savannakhet hipsters, though the deafeningly loud karaoke might not be so appealing to Western tastes.
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Moonlight Ranch
Run by a quirky Lao-Danish couple, this place has become popular with travellers and expats seeking comfort food. The hamburgers, in particular, aren’t bad.
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Au Rendez-Vous Restaurant
This small and clean restaurant serves a few decent Western dishes with its predominantly Asian menu, and has a good reputation for Western breakfasts.
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Talat Savan Xai
The large and lively Talat Savan Xai, north of the centre near the bus terminal, is the centre of much of the city’s commerce.
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Chelsea Fc Club
You’re unlikely to find Roman Abramovich partying at the Chelsea FC Club. On quiet nights it closes early.
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Hay Thien
This modest-looking restaurant in the centre of town specialises in freshly prepared, delicious and cheap Chinese dishes.
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