Sights in Northern Laos
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Wat Xieng Thong
Near the northern tip of the peninsula formed by the Mekong River and the Nam Khan is Luang Prabang’s most magnificent temple, Wat Xieng Thong. King Setthathirat ordered the construction of Wat Xieng Thong’s sǐm (ordination hall) in 1560, and the compound remained under royal patronage until 1975. Wat Xieng Thong was placed within easy reach of the Mekong. The hǎw tąi (Tripitaka library) was added in 1828, and the haw kąwng (drum tower) in 1961.
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Wat Ho Pha Bang
The Pha Bang is a 83cm tall Buddha cast of a gold, silver and bronze alloy, and is said to weigh 53.4kg. Legend has it the image was cast around the 1st century AD in Sri Lanka and later presented to Khmer King Phaya Sirichantha, who in turn gave it to King Fa Ngum in 1359 as a Buddhist legitimiser of Lao sovereignty. A project planned before the monarchy was abolished in 1975, construction on this highly ornate pavilion began in 1993.
Upon completion the highly revered Pha Bang will be moved from palace museum where it currently rsides, to an altar in the centre of the pavilion.
Since stylistically it's obviously of Khmer origin, its casting most likely took place nearer …
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Wat Wisunarat
Originally built in 1513 during the reign of Chao Wisunarat (King Visoun), Wat Wisunarat is the oldest operating temple in Luang Prabang. It was rebuilt between 1896 and 1898 following an 1887 fire set by Black Flag Haw raiders. The original was wooden, and in the brick and stucco restoration the builders tried to make the balustraded windows of the sǐm appear to be fashioned of lathed wood (an old South Indian and Khmer contrivance that is uncommon in Lao architecture). The front roof that slopes sideways over the terrace is another unique feature. Inside the high-ceilinged sǐm is a collection of gilded wooden ‘Calling for Rain’ Buddhas and 15th- to 16th-century Luang …
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Wat Xieng Muan
The sǐm (ordination hall) at Wat Xieng Muan dates back to 1879, though the monastery site is much older. The sculpture inside is impressive and the ceiling is painted with gold nagas (mythical water serpents), an uncommon motif in this position - possibly a Thai Lü influence. Also notable is the elaborate háang thíen (candle rail) with nagas at either end.
Wat Xieng Maen, in the village of Xieng Maen, was founded in 1592 by Chao Naw Kaewkumman, son of Setthathirat, but it fell into ruin and had to be rebuilt in 1927. The newer sǐm contains a few artefacts dating from the original temple, including the original doors. This spot is especially sacred to Xieng Maen resid…
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Wat Tham Xieng Maen
Founded in 1889 and since abandoned, Wat Tham Xieng Maen is in a 100m-deep limestone cave called Tham Sakkarin Savannakuha, a little northwest of Wat Long Khun. Many Buddha images from temples that have been torched or otherwise fallen into decay are kept here; during Bun Pi Mai Lao many local worshippers come to Wat Tham to pay homage and cleanse the images. The large stone-block entrance built around the mouth of the cave displays good relief work on stair pedestals, and is flanked by two large ruined spirit houses and a couple of plumeria (frangipani) trees. An iron gate across the cave mouth is usually locked; inquire at Wat Long Khun and someone will come and unlock …
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Wat Pa Huak
The decaying sǐm at Wat Pa Huak - on the lower northern slope of Phu Si, near the Royal Palace Museum - has a splendid carved wood and mosaic façade showing Buddha riding Airavata, the three-headed elephant of Hindu mythology (in which he is usually depicted as Lord Indra's mount). The gilded and carved front doors are often locked, but during the day there's usually an attendant nearby who will open the doors for a tip of a couple of hundred kip.
Inside, the original 19th-century murals have excellent colour, considering the lack of any restoration. The murals show historic scenes along the Mekong River, including visits by Chinese diplomats and warriors arriving by ri…
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Wat Mai Suwannaphumaham
Inaugurated in 1821 (some sources claim 1797), Wat Mai succeeded Wat Aham as the residence of the Sangkharat until that position moved to Pha That Luang in Vientiane. The five-tiered roof of the wooden sǐm follows the standard Luang Prabang style, but the roofed front veranda, with its gables angled towards the sides of the chapel rather than towards the front, is an anomaly. This unusual plan may have been influenced by local vernacular architecture, as exemplified in the old wooden house just across the street from Wat Mai. The front veranda is also remarkable for its decorated columns and the sumptuous gold relief walls that recount the tale of Vessantara (Pha Wet in…
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Wat Long Khun
Wat Long Khun, almost directly across the Mekong River from Wat Xieng Thong, is the best place to disembark by boat for Xieng Maen explorations if you’re chartering a boat. This wat features a nicely decorated portico, vintage 1937, plus older sections from the 18th century and a few fading Jataka murals. When the coronation of a Luang Prabang king was pending, it was customary for him to spend three days in retreat at Wat Long Khun before ascending the throne. A restoration project, completed in 1995 by the Department of Museums and Archaeology, with the assistance of the Ecole Française d’Extrême Orient, has brought new life and beauty to the monastery buildings.
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That Chomsi
The 24m-high That Chomsi, erected in 1804 and restored in 1914, stands at the summit, clearly visible from most ground-level points in the city. This stupa is the starting point for a colourful Lao New Year procession in mid-April. If you continue over the summit and start down the path on the other side, you'll come to a small cave shrine (sometimes called Wat Tham Phu Si, although without monks it's not officially a wat).
Plopped down in the middle of the cave is a large, fat Buddha image - called Pha Kasai in Lao - and a sheltered area for worshippers. On a nearby crest is a Russian anti-aircraft cannon that children use as a makeshift merry-go-round.
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Public Park
This beautiful spot 32km south of town has a wide, many-tiered waterfall tumbling over limestone formations into a series of cool, turquoise pools. With thick banks of green and florid vegetation on either side, the setting is impossibly picturesque and photogenic. The lower level of the falls has been turned into a well-maintained public park with shelters and picnic tables; some of the trees near the waterfall have been labelled. Just past the entrance are two enclosures, one housing sun bears and the other a tiger. All have been confiscated from poachers and are kept here in preference to releasing them to the same certain fate.
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Wat Manolom
Although its outer appearance isn’t very impressive, Wat Manolom stands just outside the barely visible city walls and occupies possibly the oldest temple site in Luang Prabang. City annals say it was founded in 1375 on the site of a smaller temple established by King Fa Ngum. The decaying sǐm held the Pha Bang from 1502 to 1513 and still contains a sitting bronze Buddha cast in 1372. This image is about 6m high and weighs an estimated two tonnes – some parts of the bronze are 15mm thick. An important city talisman, the image would probably be moved to another temple if anyone could figure out how!
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Site 3
Site 3 is impressive and has 150 jars. It’s about 10km south of Site 2 (or 35km from Phonsavan) on a scenic hill-top near Lat Khai, southeast of Phonsavan. Ban Xieng Di contains a small monastery where the remains of Buddha images that were damaged in the war have been displayed. The villagers, who live in unusually large houses compared with those of the average lowland Lao, grow rice, sugar cane, avocado and banana. Villagers can lead you on a short hike to a local waterfall called Tat Lang. To reach the jar site you must hike around 2km along rice paddy dykes and up the hill.
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Wat That Luang
Legend has it that Wat That Luang was originally established by Ashokan missionaries from India in the 3rd century BC. However, there is no evidence whatsoever to confirm this, and the current sǐm was built in 1818 under the reign of King Manthaturat. The ashes of King Sisavang Vong and his brother are interred inside the large central stupa, which was erected in 1910. A smaller thâat (stupa) in front of the sǐm dates back to 1820. Inside the huge sǐm are a few Luang Prabang Buddha images and other artefacts.
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Muang Sing Exhibitions Museum
One of the better examples of the latter architectural style has been restored to contain the Muang Sing Exhibitions Museum, also known as the Tribal Museum. Inside is a collection of cultural artefacts from the area. On display are fishing utensils, looms, cooking utensils, old gongs, bells, pottery, musical instruments, Lao-style Buddha images, local ethnic costumes and a Buddha votive. The house containing the exhibition was once occupied by a local prince named Phanya Sekong. Note that the opening hours aren’t always adhered to.
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Tham Phu Kham
- Vang Vieng, Laos
- Sights › Cave
The vast Tham Phu Kham is considered sacred by Lao and is popular largely due to the lagoon in the cave. The beautiful green-blue waters are perfect for a dip after the stiff climb. The main cave chamber contains a Thai bronze reclining Buddha, and from here deeper galleries branch off into the mountain. To get here, come along a scenic but unpaved road to the village of Ban Na Thong. From Ban Na Thong follow the signs towards the cliff and a stiff 200m climb through scrub forest.
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Royal Palace Museum
You can visit this quaint museum to get a sense of local history. You need to be appropriately dressed to enter, which means having your shoulders covered and no shorts. The Royal Palace Museum was built in 1904 during the early French colonial era as a residence for King Sisavang Vong and his family. The site for the palace was chosen so that official visitors to Luang Prabang could disembark from their river journeys directly below the palace and be received there.
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Lao War Memorial
Just south of the town Phonsavan, is Lao War Memorial, a major war memorial in the shape of Lao-style stupas. The hill-top with this Memorial affords sweeping views of Phonsavan. Built in 1998, the monument is inscribed with the slogan ‘The nation remembers your sacrifice’. Large, polished granite slabs standing nearby bear the inscribed names of PL soldiers who died in the area. The stupa-like monument allegedly contains the bones of 4500 who died during the war.
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Wat Pha Mahathat
Wat Pha Mahathat is named for a venerable Lanna-style thâat erected in 1548. The sǐm in front, built in 1910, is quite ornate, with carved wooden windows and portico, rosette-gilded pillars, exterior Jataka (stories of the Buddha's past lives) reliefs and a roof in the Luang Prabang style lined with temple bells. The massive naga along the steps, also Lanna in style, resemble those at Wat Phra That Doi Suthep in Chiang Mai, Thailand.
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Tham Nam
- Vang Vieng, Laos
- Sights › Cave
About 400m south of Tham Hoi, along a well-used path, is the highlight of this trip, Tham Nam. The cave is about 500m long and a tributary of the Nam Song flows out of its low entrance. In the dry season you can wade into the cave, but when the water is higher you need to take a tube from the friendly woman near the entrance; the tube and headlamp are included in the entrance fee. Dragging yourself through the tunnel on the fixed rope is fun.
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Site 1
Site 1, the biggest and most accessible site, is 15km southwest of Phonsavan and features 250 jars, most weighing 600kg to one tonne each. The largest jar weighs as much as six tonnes and is said to have been the victory cup of mythical King Jeuam and so is called Hai Jeuam. The site has two pavilions and restrooms that were built for a visit by Thailand’s crown prince.
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Tham Loup & Tham Hoi
From Tham Sang a signed path takes you 1km northwest through rice fields to the entrances of Tham Loup & Tham Hoi. The entrance to Tham Hoi is guarded by a large Buddha figure; reportedly the cave continues about 3km into the limestone and an underground lake. Tham Loup is a large and delightfully untouched cavern with some impressive stalactites.
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Wat Aham
Between Wat Wisunarat and the Nam Khan stands Wat Aham, formerly the residence of the Sangkharat (Supreme Patriarch of Lao Buddhism). Two large banyan trees grace the grounds, which are semideserted except for the occasional devotee who comes to make offerings to the town’s most important spirit shrine at the base of the trees.
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Vietnamese War Memorial
Just south of the town Phonsavan, is the Vietnamese War Memorial. The faux stupa contains the bones of Vietnamese soldiers who died in battle in northeastern Laos, and is emblazoned with the inscription ‘Lao-Vietnamese solidarity and generosity forever’. If the gates are locked, wait for a caretaker to come along and unlock them.
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Heritage House
A Unesco-sponsored exhibit and information centre that occupies an old wooden Lao house on teak pillars in Ban Xieng Muan. Other than the very impressive wood and colombage (bamboo lattice daubed with natural mortar) house itself, there is little to take in here. Occasional weaving demonstrations are held in the house.
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Wat Pha Phutthabaht
Around on the northeastern flank of Phu Si are the ruins of Wat Pha Phutthabaht, originally constructed in 1395 during the reign of Phaya Samsenthai on the site of a 'Buddha footprint'. The ruins are of mixed style but are said to show a definite Lanna or Chiang Mai influence, as well as some later Vietnamese augmentation.
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