Wat Wisunarat

Lonely Planet review

Originally built in 1513 during the reign of Chao Wisunarat (King Visoun), Wat Wisunarat is the oldest operating temple in Luang Prabang. It was rebuilt between 1896 and 1898 following an 1887 fire set by Black Flag Haw raiders. The original was wooden, and in the brick and stucco restoration the builders tried to make the balustraded windows of the sǐm appear to be fashioned of lathed wood (an old South Indian and Khmer contrivance that is uncommon in Lao architecture).

The front roof that slopes sideways over the terrace is another unique feature. Inside the high-ceilinged sǐm is a collection of gilded wooden 'Calling for Rain' Buddhas and 15th- to 16th-century Luang Prabang sǐimáa (ordination-precinct stones). These were placed here by Prince Phetsarat after the Haw invasion. The Pha Bang was kept here from 1507 to 1715 and from 1867 to 1894.

Standing well in front of the sǐm - instead of in the usual spot for a large stupa, immediately behind the sǐm - stands the 34.5m That Pathum (Lotus Stupa). Locally the stupa is more commonly known as That Makmo (Watermelon Stupa) because of its semi-spherical shape. Work on the stupa began in 1503 by order of Nang Phantin Xieng, wife of King Visoun, and was completed 19 months later. Workmen filled the interior of the stupa with small Buddha images made of precious materials and other sacred items. Many of these were stolen when the Haw destroyed the temple, while those recovered can be seen on display in the Royal Palace Museum. The stupa underwent reconstruction in 1895 and again in 1932 after a partial collapse due to rain.