Things to do in Karakol
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Holy Trinity Cathedral
The yellow domes of this handsome cathedral have risen from the rubble of Bolshevism at the corner of Lenina and Gagarin. Karakol's first church services were held in a yurt on this site after the town was founded. A later stone church fell down in an earthquake in 1890 (its granite foundations are still visible). A fine wooden cathedral was completed in 1895 but the Bolsheviks destroyed its five onion-domes and turned it into a club in the 1930s. Serious reconstruction only began in 1961.
Services are again held here, since its formal reconsecration in 1991 and again in 1997. Listen for its chimes marking Sunday morning services (07:00 to 11:00).
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Animal Markets
This is no match for Kashgar's Sunday Market, but is still one of the best Animal Markets in Central Asia. Locals like to load their Lardas with livestock - quite a spectacle if the beast in question refuses to be pushed into the back seat. Fat-tailed sheep, worth their weight in shashlik, don't come cheap. Depending on its age, sex and size, a sheep can cost as much as US$120. Horses start at around US$300.
The market is divided into two compounds, one for sheep and goats; the other, for horses, cattle and the occasional camel.
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Dungan
You'll find Dungan snacks such as ashlyanfu (meatless, cold, gelatine noodles in a vinegary sauce) in the Al-Tilek Bazaar for only a few som. It can be quite spicy so watch the red stuff. The best Dungan food is of course in Dungan homes, where a slap-up meal may have eight to 10 courses (Dungan weddings can have up to 30 courses). Yak Tours can arrange a good Dungan feast if you can get a group together.
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Ecotrek - Trekking Workers Association
Rents trekking equipment including sleeping bags (around Som100), 2-/3-person tents (around Som160), primus stoves (around Som40s) and sells gas canisters. The staff can also arrange guided treks (guides, cooks and porters) and guided horse treks in the surrounding valleys including a five-day trek from their yurt camp in the Valley of the Flowers, and Jeti-Öghuz to Altyn Arashan.
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Chinese Mosque
What looks for all the world like a Mongolian Buddhist temple on the corner of Bektenov and Jusup Abdrakhmanov is in fact a mosque, built without nails, completed in 1910 after three years' work by a Chinese architect and 20 Chinese artisans, for the local Dungan community. It was closed by the Bolsheviks from 1933 to 1943, but since then has again become a place of worship.
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Alp Tour Issyk Köl
This professional company offers a range of treks around Karakol and further field, including Kazakhstan and Khan Tengri base camp. They can arrange border permits in a day, supply guide/cooks, porters and climbing guides for Khan Tengri. The staff will also resupply your own long-distance treks and arrange daily transport on request to the Karakol ski base in winter.
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Regional Museum
Karakol's modest Regional Museum is in a sturdy colonial brick building, once the home of a wealthy landowner. It's of limited interest with exhibits on the petroglyphs around Issyk-Köl, a few Scythian bronze artefacts, a Soviet history of the Kyrgyz union with Russia, some Kyrgyz applied art, and photographs of old Karakol - all of it better with a guide.
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Guides and Porters Association
This new cooperative of young guides operates from the Art Gallery Dali under the direction of Serebrennikov Valeriy, a mountaineer with 30 years experience. It can arrange guided treks, English, French or German interpreters and lead five-day mountain-biking trips to Barskoön via Saruu, Juuku Pass and Ara-Bel Valley (mountain-bike rental US$25 per day).
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Arzu Café
Has good vegetarian options, very filling and popular with locals at lunchtime. Nonvegetarians might try the breizol (around Som55) - battered meat rolled around tomatoes and other vegetables.
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Kürk Art Gallery
Kürk Art Gallery has some nice, neutral-coloured shyrdaks and an interesting collection of voilochnaya shapka - felt hats worn in banyas to bring the sweat out.
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Pushkin Park
The leafy Pushkin Park by the stadium, four blocks south of the centre, includes the collective grave of a squad of Red Army soldiers killed in the pursuit of basmachi.
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Traktiry Kalinka
The grumpy service here doesn't mar the cosy décor, good selection of salads and cold draught beer. Look for the pretty Russian façade.
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Kench Café
One of the better restaurants in town, in the southern outskirts and with an English menu. The chicken with mushroom sauce is recommended.
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Fakir Café
Offers a wide selection of dishes from Uyghur to Georgian, inside and outside seating, English menus, friendly staff and decent portions.
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