Things to do in Bishkek To Osh & The Kyrgyz Fergana Valley
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Farhad National Restaurant
Join the celebrating locals in one of the 20 private rooms surrounding an open courtyard. Specialising in traditional Kyrgyz cuisine, mains are ordered by weight and 1kg of plov (around Som400) feeds six adults. The minimum order is 500g and orders need to be placed by mid afternoon to allow the chefs time to prepare (Munduz Travel can help). Order ysyryk (burning grass), take a deep breath and kick back on your topchan (tea bed). Recommended.
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Jayma Bazaar
The thunderous daily Jayma Bazaar is one of Central Asia's best markets, teeming with Uzbeks, Kyrgyz and Tajiks dealing in everything from traditional hats and knives to pirated cassettes, horseshoes (forged at smithies in the bazaar), Chinese tea sets and abundant seasonal fruit and vegetables. It stretches for about 1km along the west side of the river, and crosses it in several places. It's most dynamic on Sunday morning, and almost deserted on Monday.
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Dom Babura
Local people call it Dom Babura, if you speak Russian, the friendly Uzbek caretaker will tell you more, and offer you a prayer for a few som. The steep 25-minute climb begins at a little gateway behind a futuristic silver dome on Kurmanjan Datka. The promontory offers long views but little to see except for a vast Muslim cemetery at the foot of the hill. Dusk is a good time to visit.
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Arts Faculty
By the entrance to the Jayma Bazaar is one of the best and cheapest places in Kyrgyzstan to buy an ak kalpak (Kyrgyz white felt hat; from around Som60), for an exceptional statement go the full nine yards and get a towering monstrosity with scrollwork (around Som250). Pottery and clay Central Asian figurines can be bought cheaply in the Arts Faculty.
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Munduz Travel
Professional company that organises group and individual tours. It also operates an upmarket guesthouse in town and can arrange transport to Irkeshtam (overnighting in their yurt camp near Sary Tash, US$10 per person), Batken, Pik Lenin base camp, Tashkent (Uzbekistan) and Tajikistan. GBAO permits for Tajikistan cost US$25 and take a day to organise.
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Solomon's Throne
A jagged, barren rock that seems to loom above the city wherever you go, Solomon's Throne has been a Muslim place of pilgrimage of some importance for centuries, supposedly because the Prophet Mohammed once prayed here. From certain perspectives it's said to resemble a reclining pregnant woman, and is especially favoured by hopeful mothers.
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Alptreksport
These two brothers, veterans of the Soviet sports agency Sovintersport's International Mountaineering Camp (IMC) Pamir, organise mountaineering, trekking and caving trips, including some around Sary-Chelek, Achik, Jiptik Pass (4185m) and Sary Moghul in the Alay Valley. Yury speaks English and prefers advance bookings.
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Historical-Cultural Museum
With typical Soviet subtlety, a hole was blasted in the side of this sacred mountain into one of its many caves, and a grotesque sheet-metal front stuck on - a carbuncle now visible from great distances. Inside is a series of badly lit exhibits of potsherds, old masonry, rocks, bugs and mangy stuffed animals.
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Rich Men Café
South of town and recognisable by the blue awning, the Rich Men Café is top-notch. Good meat and fish dishes are complemented by specialities such as eggs stuffed with red or black caviar (around Som80) and excellent service. Wine and Soviet champagne are served, as are excellent beer snacks.
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Historical Museum
The Historical Museum, built during the Osh 3000 celebrations, is the best of the three Historical Archaeological Museums. It's strong on local archaeology and ethnography but has little info in English. There are some great weapons, displayed as if caught up in mad whirlwind.
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Daniyar Abdurahmanov
In lieu of an organised CBT office, Daniyar, the operator of Osh Guesthouse, has become the unofficial tourist information centre by default. Contact him to arrange competitively priced transport to Kashgar via the Irkeshtam Pass and personal guiding/translating services.
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Historical Archaeological Museum Complex
Near Solomon's Throne are three museums collectively referred to as the Historical Archaeological Museum Complex, although don't expect the locals to recognise such a mouthful of English. All three keep the same hours.
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Three-Storied Yurt
The giant Three-storied Yurt, part of the Historical Archaeological Museum Complex, has a collection of national clothing, traditional textiles and shyrdaks.
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Languages Faculty
You might find keen students of English or other languages to act as unofficial guides to the city at Osh University's Languages Faculty .
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Delfin swimming pool
Locals swim in the Ak-Buura River during summer or head to the Delfin swimming pool a stone's throw away. Neither are particularly clean.
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Istanbul Pastanesi
Bypass the burgers and head straight for the delicious honey-drenched baklava, a guaranteed taste sensation.
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Aphrodite Restaurant
Another good restaurant by the entrance to the stadium with indoor and outdoor seating and beer on tap.
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