Sights in The Coast
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Fort Jesus
Mombasa's biggest tourist attraction, Fort Jesus dominates the harbour entrance at the end of Nkrumah Rd. The metre-thick coral walls make it an imposing edifice, despite being partially ruined. The fort was built by the Portuguese in 1593 to enforce their rule over the coastal Swahilis, but they rarely managed to hold onto it for long. It changed hands at least nine times in bloody sieges between 1631 and 1875, finally falling under British control. It houses a museum, built over the former barracks. The exhibits are mostly ceramics, reflecting the variety of cultures that traded along the coast, but include other interesting odds and ends donated from private collection…
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Mombasa Old Town Conservation Society
While Mombasa's Old Town doesn't quite have the medieval charm of Lamu or Zanzibar, it's still an interesting area to wander around. The houses here are characteristic of coastal East African architecture, with ornately carved doors and window frames and fretwork balconies, designed to protect the modesty of the female inhabitants. Sadly, many of these have been destroyed; there is now a preservation order on the remaining doors and balconies, so further losses should hopefully be prevented.
The Mombasa Old Town Conservation Society is encouraging the renovation of many dilapidated buildings
From the outside there's little evidence of what any of these buildings were once …
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Lamu Museum
Housed in a very grand Swahili warehouse on the waterfront, the Lamu Museum is an excellent introduction to the culture and history of Lamu Island. It's one of the most interesting small museums in Kenya, with displays on Swahili culture, the famous coastal carved doors, the Maulid Festival, Lamu's nautical history and the tribes who used to occupy this part of the coast in pre-Muslim days, including the Boni, who were legendary elephant-hunters. There's a bookshop that is specialising in Lamu and Swahili culture.
The pride of the collection are the remarkable and ornate siwa (ceremonial horns) of Lamu and Paté, dating back to the 17th century. Lamu's siwa is made of eng…
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Swahili House Museum
If the Lamu Museum stokes your interest in Swahili culture, this beautifully restored traditional house tucked away off to the side of Yumbe House hotel will put you firmly back in the past.
Inside Swahili House Museum you'll find a recreation of a working Swahili home, with cookware, beds and other furniture. The attendant will give you a whistle-stop but informative tour in between small talk, including some fascinating descriptions of the regimented lives of Swahilis in the 18th and 19th centuries.
Traditional Swahili homes were built along rigid social lines, with separate quarters for men and women and audience halls that allowed men to receive guests without infringi…
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Mida Creek
The extensive mangrove forests around Mida Creek, just south of Watamu, support a huge number of bird species, including the spectacular malachite kingfisher, yellow-billed stork and African fish eagle. It's paradise for bird-watchers and there is also some good snorkelling and scuba diving at the mouth of the creek.
The head of the creek, the best area for viewing waterbirds, is reached by a dirt road opposite the Mida entrance to the Arabuko Sokoke Forest Reserve. The guides who work out of the reserve can organise guided walks in the mangroves.
Many people also come here on boat tours (arranged through Watamu hotels), which visit a boardwalk and picnic ground on Sudi Is…
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Bio Ken Snake Farm
This excellent Bio Ken Snake Farm is by far the best of the snake parks along the coast. It was established by the late James Ashe, a reptile expert and former curator from the National Museums of Kenya, who achieved such recognition in his field that he even has a bush viper named after him.
The farm is a nonprofit organisation, providing free antivenin wherever it is needed in Kenya. As well as touring the facilities, staff can take you on a day safari to look for snakes in their natural habitat.
The centre is just north of Watamu village on the main beach road.
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Malindi Marine National Park
Immediately offshore from Malindi and extending south as far as Watamu, this important marine park covers 213 sq km and protects some impressive coral reefs, although the piles of seashells on sale in Malindi may make you wonder just how much that protection is worth.
Despite the extensive damage there is still some amazing marine life here, and there's always a chance you may see megafauna such as whale sharks and mako sharks. Note that underwater visibility is severely reduced by silt from the Galana River between March and June.
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Lamu Fort
The bulky, atmospheric Lamu Fort squats on Lamu's main square like a weary intruder among the airy Swahili roofs. The building of this massive structure was begun by the Sultan of Paté in 1810 and completed in 1823. From 1910 right up to 1984 it was used as a prison, and it now houses the island's library and some lacklustre displays on natural history and the environment, which a guide will show you around. The highlight is scaling the ramparts for some sweeping town views.
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Vasco da Gama Pillar
Malindi's most famous monument, although it isn't particularly impressive, is the bell-shaped Vasco da Gama Pillar , erected by the Portuguese explorer as a navigational aid in 1498. The coral pillar is topped by a cross made of Lisbon stone, which almost certainly dates from da Gama's time, and stands on the rocks at the northern end of Casuarina Beach. From the rocks there are good views along the coast. To get here, follow the signs from the alley beside Scorpio Villas.
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German Post Office Museum
In the late 1800s, before the British decided to nip German expansion into Tanganyika in the bud, the Germans regarded Lamu as an ideal base from where they could successfully and safely exploit the interior. As part of their efforts the German East Africa Company set up a post office on Kenyatta Rd, and the old building is now the German Post Office Museum exhibiting photographs and memorabilia from that fleeting period of colonial history.
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Watamu Turtle Watch
Several species of marine turtle lay their eggs on the beaches around Watamu and Watamu Turtle Watch, part of the Local Ocean Trust, has set up a series of initiatives with local people to protect these threatened animals. Female turtles lay thousands of eggs here between January and April. Contact the trust's Marine Information Centre if you're interested in seeing this incredible natural spectacle or volunteering with local projects.
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Donkey Sanctuary
With around 3000 donkeys active on Lamu, Equus asinus is still the main form of transport here, and this sanctuary was established by the International Donkey Protection Trust of Sidmouth, UK, to improve the lot of the island's hard-working beasts of burden. The project provides free veterinary services to donkey owners and tends to injured, sick or worn-out animals; there's even a small ambulance for donkey-mergencies.
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Malindi Crocodile Farm & Snake Park
This commercial crocodile farm is just off the main road leading to the marine park (offshore from Malindi), and the crocs obligingly engage in a feeding frenzy at 16:00 every Wednesday and Friday. Kids are more likely than adults to enjoy the spectacle without making the link between the smiling reptiles in the pens and the belts and wallets on sale in the foyer…
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Malindi Museum
The House of Columns contains the new Malindi museum, a fairly haphazard collection of pictures, objects and exhibits covering Malindi's past and present. So far it hasn't made the most of the space, but the poster displays on Vasco da Gama and Islam are interesting, there's a multilingual reference library and the curators will doubtless grow into their role.
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Watamu Marine National Park
The southern part of Malindi Marine Reserve, the Watamu Marine National Park includes some magnificent coral reefs and abundant fish-life. It lies around 2km offshore from Watamu. To get to the park you'll need to hire a glass-bottomed boat, which is easy enough at the KWS office, at the end of the coast road, where you pay the park fees.
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Portuguese Church
The tiny thatched Portuguese church is so called because Vasco da Gama is reputed to have erected it, and two of his crew are supposedly buried here. This may or may not be the case, but it's certainly true that St Francis Xavier visited on his way to India. The rest of the compound is taken up by the graves of Catholic missionaries.
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Jumaa Mosque and Palace
Opposite the boat jetty on the seafront is the town's principal mosque, and the remains of the ancient Jumaa Mosque and Palace. Within the compound is a large pillar tomb; non-Muslims are not allowed to enter, but you may be able to catch a glimpse when approaching from the north.
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Khonzi Mosque
Mombasa has some interesting mosques; non-Muslims are usually not permitted to enter, although you can look from the outside. The dozen or so mosques in the Old Town are the most traditional, while more modern examples in town include the Khonzi Mosque on Digo Rd.
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Old Law Courts Gallery
The old law courts on Nkrumah Rd have been converted into an informal Gallery, with regularly changing displays of local art, Kenyan crafts, school competition pieces and votive objects from various tribal groups.
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Turtle Bay Discovery Centre
All the big hotels offer 'goggling' (snorkelling) trips to nonguests. The best are the snorkel safaris run by zoologist Richard Bennett from the Turtle Bay Discovery Centre at Turtle Bay Beach Club.
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Falconry
Malindi's falconry, near the town centre, has a number of caged birds of prey and a late-opening bar-restaurant. The displays can be dramatic, but the drab atmosphere's a bit depressing.
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KWS office
To get to the Watamu Marine National Park you'll need to hire a glass-bottomed boat, which is easy enough at the KWS office, at the end of the coast road, where you pay the park fees.
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Swaminarayan Temple
You'll get a warm reception at the Hindu Swaminarayan Temple, which has some wonderfully ornate painted doors and vivid paintings from Hindu mythology. Remove shoes before entering.
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Jain Temple
Another temple with esoteric design is the Jain Temple. Shoes should be removed before entering this building, and it's worth asking about any other appropriate signs of respect.
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Hare Krishna Temple
For esoteric design, see the Hare Krishna Temple. Shoes should be removed before entering this building, and it's worth asking about any other appropriate signs of respect.
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