Things to do in Mombasa
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The Office
Perched above the Likoni ferry jetty and matatu stand, the entirely unaptly named Office is a real locals' hangout with regular massive reggae and dub nights shaking the thatched rafters. Any business that goes on here is definitely not the executive kind.
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Singh Restaurant
The Sikh temple near the bus stands operates this small cafeteria restaurant, tipped by Mombasans in the know as one of the best places in town for vegetarians.
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Mombasa Coffee House
Take the opportunity to escape above Moi Ave for fresh coffee and snacks, or local meals away from the daily grind.
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Books First
Well-stocked bookshop outlet with separate café, in the Nakumatt supermarket.
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Fort Jesus
Mombasa's biggest tourist attraction, Fort Jesus dominates the harbour entrance at the end of Nkrumah Rd. The metre-thick coral walls make it an imposing edifice, despite being partially ruined. The fort was built by the Portuguese in 1593 to enforce their rule over the coastal Swahilis, but they rarely managed to hold onto it for long. It changed hands at least nine times in bloody sieges between 1631 and 1875, finally falling under British control. It houses a museum, built over the former barracks. The exhibits are mostly ceramics, reflecting the variety of cultures that traded along the coast, but include other interesting odds and ends donated from private collection…
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Mombasa Old Town Conservation Society
While Mombasa's Old Town doesn't quite have the medieval charm of Lamu or Zanzibar, it's still an interesting area to wander around. The houses here are characteristic of coastal East African architecture, with ornately carved doors and window frames and fretwork balconies, designed to protect the modesty of the female inhabitants. Sadly, many of these have been destroyed; there is now a preservation order on the remaining doors and balconies, so further losses should hopefully be prevented.
The Mombasa Old Town Conservation Society is encouraging the renovation of many dilapidated buildings
From the outside there's little evidence of what any of these buildings were once …
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Bombolulu Workshops & Cultural Centre
This nonprofit organisation produces crafts of a very high standard and gives vocational training to hundreds of physically disabled people. You can visit the workshops and showroom for free to buy jewellery, clothes, carvings and other crafts, or enter the cultural centre to tour mock-ups of traditional homesteads in the grounds, where various activities take place. Bombolulu matatus run here from Msanifu Kombo St, and Bamburi services in either direction also pass the centre.
The turn-off for the centre is on the left about 3km north of Nyali bridge.
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Tamarind Restaurant
Perhaps the finest of the various Tamarind ventures, eating on the terrace of this grand Moorish building overlooking the water is a romantic splurge you can't afford to miss. Seafood is the focus here, but meat eaters won't go hungry and vegetarians even get their own menu. The only bum note is the rather cheesy keyboard music, which takes a few dawas (vodka, lime and honey cocktails) to drown out. There's a casino upstairs - just remember you'll need some money for the taxi back to town.
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Tamarind Dhow
Topping the luxury dhow cruises is the Tamarind Dhow, run by the posh Tamarind restaurant chain of the same name. The cruise embarks from the jetty below the Tamarind restaurant in Nyali, and includes a harbour tour and a fantastic meal. The lunch cruises leave at 13:00. Longer and more splendid evening cruises leave at 18:30. There is a choice of seafood, steak and vegetarian dishes. Prices include a complimentary cocktail and transport to and from your hotel.
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New Florida Nightclub
This vast seafront complex houses Mombasa's liveliest nightclub, which boasts its own casino, restaurants and even an open-air swimming pool. It's owned by the same people as the infamous Florida clubs in Nairobi and offers much the same atmosphere, clientele and Las Vegas-style floorshows, with the added bonus of outdoor bars, table football and real German Currywurst (curry sausage)! Friday, Saturday and Sunday are the big party nights.
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Little Chef Dinners Pub
Thankfully this funky green-hued pub-restaurant has nothing to do with the British motorway diners of the same name, dishing up big, tasty portions of Kenyan and international dishes from pilau to stroganoff. The 1st-floor bar has a pool table and a great breezy balcony, one of the most relaxed places in town for a beer. The company has a couple more outlets in the area, but this is by far the nicest.
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Jahazi Marine
A big luxury dhow cruise operator is Jahazi Marine, which offers evening trips. The price includes transfers, a sunset cruise, a walk through the Old Town and entry to Fort Jesus for the light show and a five-course meal; for an extra fee you can sample a casino and head on to the Bora Bora International Nightclub in Bamburi, on the northern beaches.
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Siesta Bar & Restaurant
You say mzungu, they say gringo…we just say olé! This is quite possibly the only Mexican restaurant in East Africa, set in a fine garden above the harbour by the Nyali Bridge. It's great for a sunset beer (or tequila if you've got the cojones) and the near-authentic food comes highly recommended.
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Mombasa Yacht Club
If you can sail, it may be worth joining. Temporary membership is available. Wednesday is club night, where qualified sailors may be able to talk themselves into some crewing, and there are usually races on Sunday. Those hoping to hitch a lift on a passing yacht will have a better (though remote) chance in Mtwapa or at Kilifi Boatyard.
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Main Market
Mombasa's dilapidated 'covered' market building, formerly the Mackinnon Market, is packed with stalls selling fresh fruit and vegetables. Roaming produce carts also congregate in the streets around it, and dozens of miraa (leafy twigs and shoots chewed as a stimulant) sellers join the fray when the regular deliveries come in.
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Island Dishes
Once your eyes have adjusted to the dazzling strip lights, feast them on the tasty menu at this whiter-than-white Lamu-themed canteen. Mishkaki (kebabs), chicken tikka, fish, fresh juices and all the usual favourites are on offer to eat in or take away, though the biryani (curry and rice) is only available at lunchtime.
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Rozina House Restaurant
Walk along Moi Ave in the evening and you're bound to be approached by touts for this would-be upmarket eatery. The food is reputedly very good, with plenty of seafood, but if you've just been dragged in off the street the prices are distinctly off-putting. Cheaper meals are available at the café next door.
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Toyz Disco
A loud and lively Kenyan nightspot just off Nkrumah Rd. The 'Be Casual' sign outside announces in graphic form that drugs, nudity, fighting and weapons are banned, which seems to work as it's perfectly friendly inside. Entry is free for women. Expect plenty of gangsta rap and jangly Congolese music.
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Akamba Handicraft Industry Cooperative Society
This cooperative employs an incredible 10,000 people from the local area. It's also a nonprofit organisation and produces very fine animal woodcarving. Kwa Hola/Magongo matatus run right past the gates from the Kobil petrol station on Jomo Kenyatta Ave. Many coach tours from Mombasa also stop here.
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Splendid View Restaurant
You'll be looking in vain if you expect magnificent vistas from the street seating here - the name merely refers to the Splendid Hotel opposite. Luckily the food compensates for this sly misnomer, covering styles from tandoori to Chinese-influenced pili pili, a kind of curry.
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Blue Room Restaurant
The Blue Room is hugely popular for its fast food - anything from cakes and sandwiches to curries, steaks and pizzas. Drinks are made with filtered water and there are no fewer than two back-up generators in case of power cuts. There's also a highly recommended ice-cream parlour.
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Fontanella Steakhouse & Beer Garden
A popular open-air place in a courtyard off Moi Ave, with nyama choma (barbecued meat), steaks and Western offerings such as spag bol. There's a large bird cage for entertainment, though without many outside lights you can hardly see it (or the menus) at night.
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Baron Restaurant & Pub
While it appears at first like a pretty average drinking hall, a glance at Baron's ambitious menu reveals a lot more than cold Tusker passing through the kitchen. Crocodile, ostrich, guinea fowl and lobster all feature, and even the drinks list takes up a page or two.
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New Chetna Restaurant
This is a very popular South Indian canteen restaurant with a long list of vegetarian goodies, including masala dosa (curried vegetables inside a lentil-flour pancake) and idli (rice dumpling). The various thali (set meals) are great value.
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