Things to do in King's Highway
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Karak Castle
The entrance to the Karak Castle is at the southern end of Al Qala’a St. Throughout the castle, informative display boards give detailed descriptions of the history and function of each structure. Bring a torch (flashlight) to explore the darker regions, and watch your head on low doorways. Reconstruction and excavation work within the castle is ongoing. The main entrance, Ottoman’s Gate, is reached via a bridge over the dry moat. The Crusader’s Gate (old entrance) is not open to the public. From Ottoman’s Gate, pass the ticket office and take the path to the left. Resist the temptation to head into the vaulted corridor straight ahead and instead turn left and en…
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Dana Nature Reserve
The Dana Nature Reserve is one of Jordan’s hidden gems. The focal point of the reserve is the charming 15th-century stone village of Dana, which dangles beneath the King’s Highway on a precipice, commanding exceptional views of the valley below. The reserve is the largest in Jordan and includes a variety of terrain, from sandstone cliffs over 1500m high near Dana to a low point of 50m below sea level in Wadi Araba. Sheltered within the red rock escarpments are protected valleys that are home to a surprisingly diverse ecosystem. About 600 species of plants (ranging from citrus trees and juniper, to desert acacias and date palms) thrive in the reserve, together with 180 …
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Haret Jdoudna Complex
The Haret Jdoudna Complex sells an extensive range of crafts including mosaics, ceramics, textiles and clothing. Look out particularly for some exquisite embroidery; many of these items are sponsored by the Arab Cultural Society, which supports Jordanian war widows. Indeed, most items come from local non-profit organisations, including the Noor Al-Hussein Foundation.
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Madaba Turkish Bath
If you’ve had just about enough mosaics for one day, you could always enjoy closely knit tiles of a modern kind at MadabaTurkish Bath. These small and cosy baths are clean and intimate but opening times, like elsewhere in Madaba, are flexible. Call ahead to reserve the baths for an hour or so. Women can choose a female or male attendant and couples can share the facilities if they wish. You begin with a shower, sweat it out for a few minutes in the steam room, relax on a heated marble slab, lounge in the Jacuzzi and finally lie down at the mercy of the masseur. If you behave nicely, you’ll be rewarded with mint tea in the comfortable majlis (lounge) area.
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St George's Church & Mosaic Map
It’s easy to understand why this rather modest 19th-century Greek Orthodox church has such a magnetic attraction. Imagine the excitement in 1884 when Christian builders came across the remnants of an old Byzantine church on the site of their new construction. Among the rubble, having survived wilful destruction, fire and neglect, the mosaic they discovered wasn’t just another mosaic, it was one with extraordinary significance: to this day, it represents the oldest map of Palestine in existence and provides many historical insights into the region.
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Greek Orthodox Church
This 19th-century Greek Orthodox church was built over a Byzantine church.
Unearthed in 1884, the mosaic on the church floor was a clear map with 157 captions (in Greek) depicting all the major biblical sites of the Middle East. The mosaic was constructed in AD 560, and was originally around 25m long (some experts claim 15m is more accurate) and 6m wide. It once contained more than two million pieces but only one-third of the original mosaic has survived.
The map itself, while of enormous historical significance, can be difficult to take in with all its fragments. It's definitely worth seeing, but you need to take your time to get the map's bearing. A room across from the …
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Khirbet Tannour
Travelling south from Karak, the King’s Highway gradually descends from a brooding piece of black volcanic hillside into the impressive but arid Wadi Hasa (the biblical Zered Valley). Attempts at tomato growing are in evidence but it’s hard to encourage the rocky topsoil into production, and the discarded and wind-strewn strips of plastic are a sorry blight on an otherwise wild landscape. The highway skirts a reservoir, above which looms a small, conical-shaped hill. A track leads off to the right of the highway from where a steep 15-minute hike leads to the top of the hill. At the top are the neglected ruins of the 2000-year-old Nabataean temple of Khirbet Tannour. A …
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Kir Heres Restaurant
A cut above the rest, this award-winning restaurant is a surprise find in Karak. The chef (and owner), Saddam, is from Karak and he has a passion for food, reflected in the inventive menu. There are ostrich steaks (JD7) and chicken dishes prepared with local herbs (JD5.550). Vegetarians can choose from dishes including fried haloumi (salty cheese; JD2.250), and mushrooms with garlic and thyme (JD2.250). The owner laments that people take fright at the smart tablecloths, serviettes and tasteful interior of draped kilims and imagine the prices will be prohibitive. The secret is out, however, among the discerning palates of Karak, and a reservation is necessary at weekends. …
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Madaba Institute for Mosaic Art & Restoration (MIMAR)
Originally set up as a school in 1992 by the Jordanian Government, MIMAR has recently been upgraded to an institute. Its primary aims are to train Jordanian artists in the production and restoration of mosaics, spread awareness of mosaics in Jordan and actively preserve mosaics throughout the country. The restoration work of the school’s artisans is evident in the Archaeological Park, the Church of the Apostles and at Khirbet Mukhayyat. The institute consists of a workshop, which includes a partial reproduction of the mosaic map in St George’s Church; it is displayed on the wall, making it easier to photograph. This is an active school so all visitors should first visi…
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Burnt Palace & Martyrs Church
The Burnt Palace was a late-6th-century luxury private mansion destroyed by fire and earthquake around AD 749. It contains more mosaics and there are walkways throughout for viewing the site. The east wing (down the steps to the left as you enter) contains some good hunting mosaics, while the west wing's highlight is the image of a lion attacking a bull. A fragment of a four seasons mosaic is all that remains of the north wing.
On the site is the continuation of the ancient Roman road, which once connected with the road in the Archaeological Park, as well as the 6th-century Martyrs Church, which was destroyed in the 8th century. The site requires more imagination than the…
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Madaba Museum
The Madaba Museum is housed in several old Madaba residences. Some highlights of the museum include a 6th-century mosaic depicting a naked satyr, a saucy (and partially damaged) mosaic of Ariadne, dancing with cymbals on her hands and feet, and a mosaic in the courtyard depicting two rams tied to a tree – a popular image recalling Abraham’s sacrifice. Spare a few minutes in the Folklore Museum, also housed here and included in the admission price. It features jewellery, traditional costumes and a copy of the Mesha Stele. There have long been plans to move the museum to the Saray, but nothing has come of this yet. It may explain, however, why the museum is rather …
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New Orthodox School
For those who like Madaba well enough to stay, there’s an opportunity to teach English at the New Orthodox School that would make for an excellent gap-year experience. Run by Father Innocent (Innokentios) and attached to St George’s Church, the school promotes ‘mutual respect and peaceful coexistence’ among youngsters of different religious communities. The school is a non-profit organisation, supporting needy students. Volunteers receive free accommodation, pocket money and private Arabic lessons. Email Father Innocent for details (diodoros@wanadoo.jo).
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Church of the Apostles
The Church of the Apostles contains a remarkable mosaic dedicated to the 12 apostles, although it can be difficult to see clearly. The embroidery-like mosaic was created in AD 568 and is one of the few instances where the mosaicist (Salomios) put his name to his work. The central portion shows Thalassa, a woman who represents the sea, surrounded by fish and some slippery marine creatures (check out the comical little octopus).
In the same mosaic are representations of less threatening native animals, birds, flowers and fruits, and cherubic faces in the corners.
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Tell Madaba
This important archaeological site in the heart of Madaba is still under excavation and there's not much to see. Like many sites around Madaba, it was discovered by accident by a local when he started digging the foundations for his house. It contains remains of a Byzantine villa and parts of an Iron Age wall or fortification, the largest of its kind in Jordan and visible from above the arch on the top level.
To get the most from this site you'll need a trained eye. Tread carefully as much remains to be excavated.
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National Society for the Preservation of Madaba Shop
Next to the entrance to the Burnt Palace, the National Society for the Preservation of Madaba and its Suburbs has a necessarily long sign and friendly staff. The organisation aims to preserve Madaba's heritage, with a particular focus on protecting the architectural and historical integrity of the old houses around town. It is partly funded by the sale of maps, books and souvenirs from its shop. Opening hours are erratic.
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El Cardo Restaurant
Come to the upper gallery of this typical old-house restaurant at lunchtime in season, and you can expect a good buffet of baked chicken or lamb, fresh hummus and local salads. The measure of the chef to our mind, however, was the ability to rustle up something expert on a dark night in winter and the willingness of the aging patrons to give us an out-of-hours welcome. The restaurant is opposite the Archaeological Park.
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Ayola Coffee Shop & Bar
If you want a toasted sandwich (JD2), Turkish coffee (JD1), glass of arak with locals, or simply a cosy perch on which to while away some time with fellow travellers, then this is the place to come. With festoons of hand-loomed kilims draped from the ceiling, creeping vines and the aroma of sheesha (water pipe) it captures the very essence of Jordan. There’s free internet access if you have a laptop.
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Craft Shops
Have a classy and extensive range of items on offer, including jewellery, books, clothing, mosaics, furniture, textiles and ceramics. Most of the items come from local nonprofit organisations such as the Noor Al-Hussein Foundation. Embroidered items come from the Arab Cultural Society, which supports Jordanian war widows. There's a small silversmiths on site.
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King’s Restaurant
Opposite an open area called Castle Plaza, this boulevard restaurant with tables on the pavement attracts travellers at all times of the day and night. It offers grills, pizzas and sandwiches, and local, home-cooked Jordanian dishes like maqlubbeh. The freshly squeezed orange juice is welcome after hot climbs up and down Al-Qala’a Street.
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Stop & Go
The doughnuts may not always be today’s, but the frank and thoroughly likeable owner is the first to tell you as much – while he fills you in on the gossip of Madaba. A cup of coffee in the upper gallery of this tiny cafe is like the pause for tea in a carpet shop: an essential experience of being in town.
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Bowabit Restaurant
With two tables overhanging the road opposite St George’s Church, photographs of old Madaba on the wall and excellent Italian-style coffee (cappuccino JD2.500), this is a number-one place to relax after strolling round town. Alternatively, make a night of it over a dish of Madaba chicken (JD7) and a beer (JD3).
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Dana Restaurant
Not far from the Church of the Apostles, the atmosphere here is pleasant, though can be deathly quiet in the evenings. When there's a group around they serve lunch (sometimes dinner) buffet. At other times the owners recommend the sajieh, a baked dish of chicken, onion and bread (JD4).
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Burnt Palace
The Burnt Palace was a late-6th-century luxury private mansion destroyed by fire and earthquake around AD 749. Walkways lead around the ruins for viewing the assorted mosaics, the best of which are the hunting sequences in the east wing, and the lion attacking a bull in the west wing.
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King’s Castle Restaurant
The daily buffet here is popular with tour groups. With pleasant outdoor seating, castle views and over 20 salads to choose from, it’s easy to understand why. The eastern building is worth a visit for its impressive relief display of the castle.
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Hanania Silver Shop
There are a number of quality shops in town including this locally renowned master silversmith, opposite Al-Baraka Dates. There is little on display in the window but every piece is hand-crafted to the highest standards.
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