Things to do in Amman
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Romantheatre
The restored RomanTheatre is the most obvious and impressive remnant of Roman Philadelphia, and is the highlight of Amman for most foreign visitors. The theatre itself is cut into the northern side of a hill that once served as a necropolis and has a seating capacity of 6000. It was built on three tiers: the rulers, of course, sat closest to the action, the military had the middle section and the general public sat perched, squinting, way up the top. The theatre was probably built in the 2nd century AD during the reign of Antoninus Pius (AD 138–61). Theatres often had religious significance, and the small shrine above the top row of seats once housed a statue of the godde…
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Al-Burgan
A selection of crafts and souvenirs with knowledgeable staff and reasonable prices. It’s behind Jordan InterContinental Hotel.
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Citadel (Jebel al-Qala'a)
The area known as the Citadel sits on the highest hill in Amman, Jebel al-Qala’a (about 850m above sea level), and is the site of ancient Rabbath-Ammon. Artefacts dating from the Bronze Age show that the hill was a fortress and/or agora (open space for commerce and politics) for thousands of years. The complex is surrounded by 1700m-long walls, which were rebuilt many times during the Bronze and Iron Ages, as well as the Roman, Byzantine and Umayyad periods. The Citadel ticket office is on the road leading up to the Citadel’s entrance. The Citadel’s most impressive series of historic buildings is the UmayyadPalace, which stretches out behind the National Archaeological…
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Hashem Restaurant
A legendary place that overflows into the alley, Hashem is incredibly popular with locals for felafel, hummus and fuul (fava-bean paste). A filling meal with bread and mint tea costs around JD1. As one reader extolled: ‘nothing but bread, hummus, fuul and felafel, but everything is fresh and dirt cheap. We love this place!’
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Grappa
Stylish wooden benches and B&W photos on the wall give this rustic bar a hip feel but it’s the huge windows with views and the summer terrace seating that really draw the crowds. There are decent pizzas, salads and manaqeesh (Arabic bread with herbs) but the drinking takes priority.
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Tannoureen Restaurant
Worth the trek for good Lebanese food, especially mezzes (try the spinach and pine-nut pie) and salads, but it also does a wide selection of Western dishes, grills and fish. Reserve a table in the bright and airy conservatory. The restaurant is easily missed - look for the green wall.
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Silsal Ceramics
Has a small showroom of superb modern pottery with price tags that are surprisingly reasonable. If you’re coming along Zahran St from 5th Circle, it’s the third small street on the right.
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National Archaeological Museum
The National Archaeological Museum is just northwest of the Temple of Hercules. It has a good collection of items spanning all eras of Jordanian and regional history, ranging from 6000-year-old skulls from Jericho to Umayyad period artwork. It also boasts some examples of the Dead Sea Scrolls found at Qumran in 1952, a copy of the Mesha Stele and assorted artefacts from Petra and Jerash. Most exhibits are well labelled in English.
Pride of place are three of the Ain Ghazal statues, which date back to 6500 BC as some of the world's earliest sculpture. Finds from the Citadel itself include the head from a statue of the Greek goddess Tyche and some Egyptian-style carvings.
Al…
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Al-Pasha Turkish Bath
Al-Pasha Turkish Bath is the perfect pampering antidote to the hills and bustle of Amman. The full service includes steam bath, sauna, Jacuzzi, scrubbing, 40-minute massage and two soft drinks, all done in a superb building architecturally faithful to the tradition of a Turkish hammam. There are male and female attendants. Couples are welcome during the day; evenings are generally for men only. It's a good idea to book ahead and bring a pair of swimming trunks.
It's easiest to find if you're coming along Abu Bakr as-Siddiq St (Rainbow St) from the 1st Circle; it's the fifth street on the right. Taxis know it as near Ahliya School for Girls.
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Reem al-Bawadi
Reem al-Bawadi is a huge restaurant complex popular with tour groups and Jordanian families. It's a bit far from the centre but is a good option if you want to try some upper-end Jordanian and Lebanese food. Menu includes a wide range of mezze and grills, giving you a chance to explore beyond the normal felafel and hummus dishes. You can eat on brass tables in the cavernous main halls or in Bedouin tents, either way the live music gets things going.
The Reem has a traditional bread oven and is perhaps better for couples. If you're headed to Tawaheen al-Hawa, look for the windmill symbol on the wall as there's no English sign.
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Living Room
Part lounge, part sushi bar and part study (think high-backed chairs, a fireplace and the daily newspaper), the Living Room is so understated that it’s easily missed. It offers quality bar meals, from North American steaks to salmon with cream cheese, and the fine music seals it as a great place to hang out over a delicious iced tea with lemon grass and mint. Non-teetotallers can enjoy the full complement of expertly crafted cocktails on offer, which are served up strong with a healthy dose of style and refinement.
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Vinaigrette
This stylish but affordable restaurant is located on the top floor of the AlQasr, and in keeping with the hotel’s boutique theme, offers gourmet sushi and salads – build your own salad and sushi combo, or let the house choose for you. Mellow jazz complements the superb views over the city, making it a great place for a light dinner before hitting the dance floor downstairs at Nai.
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Forum
The row of columns immediately in front (north) of the Roman Theatre is all that's left of the Forum, once one of the largest public squares (about 100m by 50m) in Imperial Rome. Built in AD 190, the square was flanked on three sides by columns, and on the fourth side by the Seil Amman stream; almost everything (including the stream, which still runs) lies underneath the modern streets.
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Fakhr el-Din
The highly recommended Lebanese food and elegant, classy setting in a 1950s villa make this a great place for a minisplurge. In addition to the extensive à la carte selections of hot and cold mezze and meaty mains, there's also a good set menu (minimum four people), which is good value. Alcohol is served. It's about two blocks behind the Iraqi Embassy in Jebel Amman.
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Blue Fig Café
Travellers always seem to appreciate the global coffeehouse vibe in this supercool place near Abdoun Circle, which offers an extensive and imaginative mix of world fusion dishes. Throw in some seductive world music and the occasional poetry reading, and you’ve got a winner. And, honestly, where else could you get a ‘Kyoto green tea and mint flavoured crème brulée’?
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Bonita Inn
This romantic spot with a rustic farmhouse feel is an excellent choice for European (primarily Spanish) cuisine. The steaks have a citywide reputation, while the paella Valenciana and gazpacho soup are as authentic as you’ll get in the Middle East. Another highlight is the tapas menu, with plenty of calamari, octopus and salads.
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Noodasia
The shiny chrome and dark woods of this stylish pan-Asian diner feel like they have been lifted straight from the cooler quarters of Shanghai. However, the menu stretches across the Asian continent, and includes Chinese, Thai and Japanese snacks and main dishes such as green curries, sushi combos and the obligatory Chinese noodle dish.
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Al-Quds Restaurant
The Jerusalem Restaurant is famous for its sweets and pastries, but the large restaurant at the back shouldn't be overlooked. The menu is in Arabic, and most waiters can only be bothered to translate a couple of items before getting huffy. The speciality of the house is mensaf, a Bedouin dish of lamb on a bed of rice.
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Wild Jordan Café
Grab a bite at this stylish and modern cafe where the emphasis is on light and healthy, with smoothies, wraps and organic salads, plus strong vegie options like the spinach-and-mushroom salad. The glass walls and open-air terrace offer terrific views over Amman, particularly at night.
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Books@Café
For a slice of coffeehouse chic and good Western food, this restaurant, bar and cafe is hard to beat. Genuine Italian pizzas and pasta are joined by good salads, and hot drinks are enjoyed by plenty of hip young Jordanians lounging on sofas in corners.
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Gérard's
As soon as you get a whiff of this sweet, hot and sticky place you'll be hooked. It's all about hot waffles, ice cream, shakes, crêpes, frozen yoghurt and iced coffees. Think Brad Pitt in Thelma and Louise - all bad but, oh, sooo good.
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Lebnani Snack
A reliable place for good-value Arabic fast food, such as a cheese and olive sandwich. There's an English menu and good juices too. There are four branches around town, including at Abdoun Circle and a good branch on Ilya Abu Madhi St in Shmeisani.
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R&B Shawerma
Not your average sliced-meat stand, the shwarmas here come in three sizes - 6, 10 and 12 inches - and come in Chinese, chicken and cheese varieties. The fries are good too.
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Shanghai Restaurant
There are several decent Chinese restaurants in town including the good-value Shanghai Restaurant
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Safeway, Shmeisani
There is an outlet of Safeway, Shmeisani around 500m southwest of the Sports City junction.
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