Sights in Amman
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Romantheatre
The restored RomanTheatre is the most obvious and impressive remnant of Roman Philadelphia, and is the highlight of Amman for most foreign visitors. The theatre itself is cut into the northern side of a hill that once served as a necropolis and has a seating capacity of 6000. It was built on three tiers: the rulers, of course, sat closest to the action, the military had the middle section and the general public sat perched, squinting, way up the top. The theatre was probably built in the 2nd century AD during the reign of Antoninus Pius (AD 138–61). Theatres often had religious significance, and the small shrine above the top row of seats once housed a statue of the godde…
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Citadel (Jebel al-Qala'a)
The area known as the Citadel sits on the highest hill in Amman, Jebel al-Qala’a (about 850m above sea level), and is the site of ancient Rabbath-Ammon. Artefacts dating from the Bronze Age show that the hill was a fortress and/or agora (open space for commerce and politics) for thousands of years. The complex is surrounded by 1700m-long walls, which were rebuilt many times during the Bronze and Iron Ages, as well as the Roman, Byzantine and Umayyad periods. The Citadel ticket office is on the road leading up to the Citadel’s entrance. The Citadel’s most impressive series of historic buildings is the UmayyadPalace, which stretches out behind the National Archaeological…
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National Archaeological Museum
The National Archaeological Museum is just northwest of the Temple of Hercules. It has a good collection of items spanning all eras of Jordanian and regional history, ranging from 6000-year-old skulls from Jericho to Umayyad period artwork. It also boasts some examples of the Dead Sea Scrolls found at Qumran in 1952, a copy of the Mesha Stele and assorted artefacts from Petra and Jerash. Most exhibits are well labelled in English.
Pride of place are three of the Ain Ghazal statues, which date back to 6500 BC as some of the world's earliest sculpture. Finds from the Citadel itself include the head from a statue of the Greek goddess Tyche and some Egyptian-style carvings.
Al…
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Al-Pasha Turkish Bath
Al-Pasha Turkish Bath is the perfect pampering antidote to the hills and bustle of Amman. The full service includes steam bath, sauna, Jacuzzi, scrubbing, 40-minute massage and two soft drinks, all done in a superb building architecturally faithful to the tradition of a Turkish hammam. There are male and female attendants. Couples are welcome during the day; evenings are generally for men only. It's a good idea to book ahead and bring a pair of swimming trunks.
It's easiest to find if you're coming along Abu Bakr as-Siddiq St (Rainbow St) from the 1st Circle; it's the fifth street on the right. Taxis know it as near Ahliya School for Girls.
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Forum
The row of columns immediately in front (north) of the Roman Theatre is all that's left of the Forum, once one of the largest public squares (about 100m by 50m) in Imperial Rome. Built in AD 190, the square was flanked on three sides by columns, and on the fourth side by the Seil Amman stream; almost everything (including the stream, which still runs) lies underneath the modern streets.
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Qasr al-Abad
The small but impressive Qasr al-Abad, west of Amman, is one of the very few examples of pre-Roman construction in Jordan. Mystery surrounds the palace, and even its precise age isn’t known, though most scholars believe that Hyrcanus of the powerful Jewish Tobiad family built it sometime between 187 and 175 BC as a villa or fortified palace. Although never completed, much of the palace has been reconstructed, and remains an impressive site. The palace was built from some of the biggest blocks of any ancient structure in the Middle East – the largest is 7m by 3m. The blocks were, however, only 20cm or so thick, making the whole edifice quite flimsy, and susceptible t…
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King Abdullah Mosque
Completed in 1989 as a memorial by the late King Hussein to his grandfather, the unmistakable blue-domed mosque can house up to 7000 worshippers inside, and another 3000 in the courtyard area. This is the only mosque in Amman that openly welcomes non-Muslim visitors. The cavernous, octagonal prayer hall doesn’t have any pillars, yet it’s capped by a massive dome, 35m in diameter. The inscriptions quote verses from the Quran. The blue colour of the underside of the dome is said to represent the sky, while the golden lines running down to the base of the dome depict rays of light illuminating the 99 names of Allah. The huge three-ringed chandelier contains more Quranic i…
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Cave of Seven Sleepers
The legend of the ‘seven sleepers’ has several parallels throughout literature. It involves seven Christian boys who were persecuted by the Roman Emperor Trajan, then escaped to a cave and slept there for 309 years. This is one of several locations (the most famous being Ephesus in Turkey) that claim to be that cave. Inside the main cave – also known as Ahl al-Kahf (Cave of the People) – are eight smaller tombs that are sealed, though one has a hole in it through which you can see a creepy collection of human bones. Above and below the cave are the remains of two mosques. About 500m west of the cave is a large Byzantine cemetery, whose tombs are sadly full of rubb…
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Byzantine church
Almost as significant as the Darat al-Funun's artistic endeavours are the architectural features of the site. At the base of the complex, near the entrance, are the excavated ruins of a 6th-century Byzantine church. Buildings further up the hill are mostly restored residences from the 1920s; it was in one of these that TE Lawrence wrote part of Seven Pillars of Wisdom. There is also a peaceful café and gardens with superb views over Amman.
Access is easiest on foot. From near the southern end of Al-Malek al-Hussein St, head up the stairs under the 'Riviera Hotel' sign. At the top of the stairs, turn immediately right onto Nimer bin Adwan St and walk uphill for 50m where …
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Military Museum
The simple and solemn Martyr’s Memorial houses this small but interesting museum, which chronicles Jordan’s recent military history, from the Arab Revolt in 1916 (in which 10,000 Arab fighters were killed) through to the Arab-Israeli Wars. It does, however, airbrush over many of the controversial aspects of these conflicts – the 1948 and 1967 wars are hardly mentioned and the 1973 war only in passing. The memorial is on the road to Zarqa, 1km east of the Sports City junction, in the grounds of the Sports City. Take any minibus or service taxi towards Zarqa, but check whether it goes past the Sports City (al-Medina al-Riyadiyah). A private taxi from downtown should co…
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Temple of Hercules
About 100m south of the basilica, in the neighbourhood of the Citadel, are the remaining pillars of the Roman Temple of Hercules. Once connected to the Forum, the temple was built during the reign of Marcus Aurelius (AD 161-80). The only obvious remains are parts of the podium and the columns, which are visible from around town. Nearby is a lookout with great views.
Although it looks close to Downtown, the only access roads to the Citadel are from Al-Malek Ali bin al-Hussein St. It's better to hire a taxi for the trip up. If you decide to walk it's much easier headed downhill. Steps lead down from east of the Citadel complex, past a viewing platform to Hashemi St, opposit…
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Jordan National Gallery of Fine Arts
This small but visually impressive gallery is a wonderful place to gain an appreciation of contemporary Jordanian painting, sculpture and pottery. The attractive space also highlights contemporary art from around the Middle East and the greater Muslim world. Temporary exhibitions here are of high quality, and serve as a valuable introduction (or refresher) to the world of Islamic art. An hour or so is probably enough time to take in most of the gallery, though you can slow down and appreciate your surroundings by relaxing at the on-site Art Café, or browsing the excellent gift shop. The gallery is signposted from Suleiman al-Nabulsi St, opposite the King Abdullah Mosque.
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Nymphaeum
Built in AD 191, the Nymphaeum was once a large, two-storey complex with fountains, mosaics, stone carvings and possibly a 600 sq metre swimming pool – all dedicated to the nymphs (mythical young girls who lived in and around the rivers). Up until 1947, the ancient stream and Roman bridge still stood where the road now runs. Excavations started in earnest in 1993, and restoration will continue for many years. Except for a few columns, an elegant archway and a few alcoves, there is little to see, though the workers toiling away may yet reveal hidden treasures in the years to come.
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Museum of Archaeology
Highlights of this small museum include models of the Temple of Artemis and Nymphaeum at Jerash, a copy of the Mesha Stele, and finds from Bronze Age Jericho and the 6th-century BC Ammonite fort at Tell al-Mazar. Don’t miss the unmarked artefacts lying around outside the building, including several dolmens (ancient graves). To get to the museum, take any minibus or service taxi heading towards Salt from Abdali or Raghadan stations, then get off at the main (west) entrance to the University of Jordan and head for the clocktower; the museum is just behind it.
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Folklore Museum
The Folklore Museum is immediately to the right as you enter the Roman Theatre. It houses a modest collection of items illustrating traditional Jordanian life. They include a Bedouin goat-hair tent complete with tools; musical instruments such as the rababa (a one-stringed Bedouin instrument); looms; mihbash (coffee grinders); some weapons; and various costumes, including traditional Circassian dress. Don’t miss the B&W photos of old Amman by the entrance. Captions are in English.
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University of Jordan
The University of Jordan is one of the biggest universities in Jordan, and is located over 10km northwest of Downtown. It boasts a Museum of Archaeology and a huge library. It also offers language courses, and is a great place to meet young locals. Numerous Internet cafés and Western fast-food outlets are dotted at various points along the main road, just opposite the university.
Take any minibus or service taxi to Salt from either Raghadan or Abdali stations; the university is easy to spot from the main road.
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Darat al-Funun
On the hillside to the north of the downtown area, Darat al-Funun is a superb complex dedicated to placing contemporary art at the heart of Jordan’s cultural life. The main building features a small art gallery with works by Jordanian and other Arab artists, an art library, and workshops for Jordanian and visiting sculptors and painters. A schedule of upcoming exhibitions, lectures, films and public discussion forums is available on the website and in the Jordan Times newspaper.
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Islamic Museum
Inside the King Abdullah Mosque is a small Islamic Museum, which has some pottery pieces, as well as photographs and personal effects of King Abdullah I. There are also a number of pieces of Muslim art, coins and stone engravings. The admission fee to the mosque includes access to the museum.
Women are required to wear something (which can be borrowed at the mosque) to cover the hair; and everyone must remove their shoes before entering the prayer hall.
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King Hussein Mosque
Built by King Abdullah I in 1924, and restored in 1987, the King Hussein Mosque is in the heart of Downtown on the site of a mosque built in AD 640 by 'Umar, the second caliph of Islam. The mosque is more interesting as a hive of activity than for any architectural splendour; the precinct is a local meeting place and exudes an altogether Arab flavour. Non-Muslims, while generally welcome any time (except during prayer time), may feel intrusive.
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Al-Husseiny Mosque
Built by King Abdullah I in 1924, and restored in 1987, the Al-Husseiny Mosque is in the heart of downtown on the site of a mosque built in AD 640 by ‘Umar, the second caliph of Islam. The mosque is more interesting as a hive of activity than for any architectural splendour as the precinct is a popular local meeting place. Note that non-Muslims, while generally welcome any time except during prayers, may feel intrusive.
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Raghadan Flagpole
From most places in the city you can spot the huge Jordanian flag of the Raghadan palace compound, which at 127m high is said to be the world's largest free-standing flagpole. (A smaller but similarly impressive flag flies in Aqaba.) The award for the tallest flag pole in the world actually goes to those crazy North Koreans on the border with South Korea but that one is supported by cables, which as everyone knows is cheating.
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Abu Darwish Mosque
On top of Jebel al-Ashrafiyeh' is the striking Abu Darwish Mosque, built in 1961 with unmistakable alternating layers of black and white stone. Non-Muslims are generally not permitted inside, but the views on the way up are good. Take service taxi 25 or 26 from Italian St in Downtown to the mosque, or charter a taxi. It's a very long and steep climb southeast of Downtown if you decide to walk.
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Odeon
On the eastern side of what was the Forum stands the 500-seat Odeon. Built in the 2nd century AD, it served mainly as a venue for musical performances. The small amphitheatre was probably enclosed with a wooden or temporary tent roof to shield the performers and audience from the elements.
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Royal Automobile Museum
Car enthusiasts will like the display of over 70 classic cars and motorbikes from the personal collection of King Hussein at the Royal Automobile Museum. It’s in the northwestern suburbs, north of 8th Circle.
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Museum of Popular Traditions
Immediately to the left as you enter the Roman Theatre is the Museum of Popular Traditions, which has well-presented displays of traditional costumes, jewellery, face masks and mosaics from Jerash.
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