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Al-Hussein Cinema
A few cinemas show kung fu flicks and B-grade movies but these are often dubbed into Arabic and, apart from the violence, are heavily censored. In Downtown, the better ones are Al-Hussein Cinema and the Raghadan.
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Al-Rashid Court Café
Also known as the Eco-Tourism Café, the 1st-floor balcony here is the place to pass an afternoon and survey the chaos of the Downtown area below. Competition for seats is fierce! It's also one of the best places for the uninitiated to try a nargileh. Although you won't see any local women here, they're well accustomed to foreign tourists. To find it look for the flags of the world on the main façade; the entrance is down the side alley.
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Al-Sendabad Coffee Shop
About 150m west of the Roman Theatre, this place has great views over the city (though not the theatre) and is kept clean by the friendly staff. It's a great place to smoke the nargileh, especially on the roof in summer.
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Arab League Café
This is a popular male domain, full of retirees playing cards.
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Auberge Café
One floor below the Cliff Hotel and very popular with local men. You'll have to make your way through the tobacco haze to reach the balcony which overlooks the main street and is a good place to smoke a nargileh. There are no pretensions to luxury but it wears a certain downmarket authenticity as a result.
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Big Fellow Irish Pub
It looks like an Irish pub, it even smells like an Irish pub, but with Arabic music sliding out of the stereo, it doesn't really sound like an Irish pub. If in doubt, tucking into a Guinness pie and a bread and butter pudding should put you in the right frame of mind. There are live screenings of international sports events. As it's run by the Sheraton, prices for food and drinks are higher than elsewhere.
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Blue Fig Café
Blue Fig Café is a great place to spend an afternoon or evening, with a chic crowd, pleasant atmosphere, live music on most Wednesday and Saturday nights and occasional exhibitions.
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Century Cinemas
In the Zara Centre behind the Grand Hyatt, with several fast-food outlets. The quality of sound, vision and chairs is high. Programmes are advertised in the English-language newspapers.
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Champions
An upmarket but popular American-style sports bar at the Amman Marriott.
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Cine Le Royal
The quality of sound, vision and chairs is high. Programmes are advertised in the English-language newspapers.
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Darat al-Funun
Definitely the most peaceful place to escape from Downtown, surrounded by the ruins of a Byzantine church and the ghosts of TE Lawrence. Drinks are cheap.
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El Farouki
Not hip but a solid old-fashioned coffee shop if you need a quiet break, with good coffee, crêpes and cakes. The coffee comes with a biscuit and a chocolate.
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Galleria
The quality of sound, vision and chairs is high. Programmes are advertised in the English-language newspapers.
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Grand Theaters
Far from the centre unless you are shopping. The quality of sound, vision and chairs is high. Programmes are advertised in the English-language newspapers.
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Grappa
Stylish wooden benches and B&W photos on the wall give this rustic bar a hip feel but it's the views, huge windows and summer terrace seating that really draw the crowds. There are decent pizzas, salads and manaqeesh (Arabic bread with herbs) but the drinking takes priority.
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Harir Lounge
Less style and more glamour at this ostentatious upper-floor lounge and restaurant. DJs or a live band (Monday and Thursday) provide the bass and there are sometimes international DJs on the weekends.
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Hisham Hotel Pub
Hisham Hotel has a cosy 'English pub' where you can get a pint of draught lager.
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JJ's
The Grand Hyatt's disco is particularly popular on Thursday night when you'll pay for the privilege of rubbing shoulders with Amman's beautiful people.
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Jordan Bar
Local dives include the Jordan Bar, a cosy place with an earthy charm that hasn't changed in years.
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Kanabayé
A quieter cool place for a drink, the low orange couches ( kanabayé in Arabic) and dark seductive browns lend this lounge bar a sexy feel and there's a summer terrace during the day. Thursday is clubbing night, Friday and Saturdays have DJs, Wednesday is Ladies' Night and Tuesday is Latin salsa night.
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King Hussein Cultural Centre
The various foreign cultural centres regularly organise lectures, exhibitions and musical recitals. The large, modern Royal Cultural Centre occasionally hosts concerts and plays, usually in Arabic, as does the King Hussein Cultural Centre. Events are sometimes advertised in the local English-language newspapers.
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Living Room
Part lounge, part sushi bar and part study (think high-backed chairs, a fireplace and today's newspaper), the Living Room is so understated that it's easily missed. There's a full bar and quality bar meals, from North American steaks to salmon with cream cheese. The fine music seals it as a great place to hang out over a delicious iced tea with lemon grass and mint.
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Nai
A Howard Johnson hotel is not the first place you'd look for a superhip Ottoman-style lounge/club/mezze bar but Nai is definitely one of the hottest places in town. Mondays and Thursdays get people off the sofas with international DJs and a cover charge (bookings advised) and there's an Arabic band the first Thursday of the month. The daily specials are a nice touch, from Saturday and Tuesdays all-you-can-eat sushi to Wednesday's all-you-can-drink cocktails.
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Orient Bar & Restaurant
Also known as 'Al-Sharq', this is a spit-and-sawdust bar that serves a range of beers, spirits and the local arak (if you dare). Cheap meals are also available with the slowest service in central Amman thrown in at no extra cost. If you've had a bit to drink, mind your head on the stairs on the way down.
