Things to do in Yamaguchi
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A
Hub
Overlooking the main shopping street, this stylish cafe- restaurant serves Asian-style rice dishes, and pastas (such as an Italian tomato spaghetti lunch set, ¥980), and is a relaxing space for a late-night drink. Look for the grey sign next to the entrance, just around the corner off Eki-dōri.
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Jōei-ji
About 4km northeast of the JR station, Jōei-ji is notable for its Zen garden, Sesshutei, designed by the painter Sesshū. From the garden, a trail leads uphill through the woods to several more shrines.
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Kōzan-kōen
North of the town centre is Kōzan Park , where the five-storey pagoda of Rurikō-ji (瑠璃光寺), a National Treasure dating from 1404, is picturesquely situated beside a small lake. The park is also the site of the Tōshun-ji (洞春寺) and the graves of the Mōri lords.
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B
La Francesca
Excellent Italian food is the main attraction at this elegant Tuscan villa, on the left as you head up the hill to the St Francis Xavier Memorial Church. Set-course options include the Pranzo (¥1890) at lunchtime and Verde (¥5250) in the evenings. The menu changes seasonally.
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C
Sabō Kō
A cosy atmosphere prevails in this crowded little eatery, where customers perch on wooden stools sipping coffee. The speciality on the Japanese-only menu is wafū omuraisu (Japanese-style rice omelette; ¥800) but it also serves curries and soba. Look for the small wood-covered place with ceramic pots sticking out of the exterior plasterwork.
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D
St Francis Xavier Memorial Church
Yamaguchi was a major centre of Christian missionary activity before the religion was outlawed in 1589. The church has the look of a large tent, and sits above the town in Kameyama-kōen. Built in 1952 in honour of St Francis Xavier, it burned down in 1991 and was rebuilt in 1998. The ground-floor Christian museum contains exhibits on the life of Xavier and the early history of Christianity in Japan, most of it in Japanese only. Steps opposite the church lead up the hill to views of Yamaguchi.
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Yamaguchi Furusato Heritage Centre
The ground floor of the 1886 sake merchant building (the Manabi-kan; まなび館) has a small display of local crafts, including some Ōuchi dolls, but the building itself is interesting. Go upstairs to get a closer look at the large dark-wood beams, and don't miss the delightful tea-ceremony room made from old sake-brewing barrels – it's in the garden. The modern learning centre is behind the old building, where you can see lacquer ware being made, or make your own lacquer-ware chopsticks (¥840) – reservation required.
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Yuda Onsen
Just west of the city is the 800-year-old Yuda Onsen. The area is covered in a rash of hotels and bathing facilities, mostly along a busy main road; it's not a place for tottering between baths in your yukata. Still, if you've got a bit of time to kill in Yamaguchi, a soak here isn't a bad way to spend a few hours.
You can use the baths at the large Hotel Kamefuku , the less-crowded Kokuminshukusha Koteru and, for a taste of luxury, the traditional ryokan Umenoya.
There's a tourist information office on the main road, where you can pick up a map and guide to all the baths.
Buses run regularly to Yuda Onsen bus stop from Yamaguchi Station (¥190, 10 minutes). They drop you on…
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