Restaurants in Yamaguchi Ken
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Kappo Nakao
This is a sophisticated fugu restaurant in Karato, with graceful service and splendidly prepared dishes. The presentation and relaxed atmosphere are worth it even if you don't try the fugu. The set lunches, such as the fuku kaiseki (fugu course), are decent value. Look for the stone lantern and wooden gate at the front.
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Kōji
This busy, elegant Chinese eatery on the 7th floor of the Daimaru shopping complex claims a lineage with one of the oldest soba shops in Tokyo's Asakusa. There's a variety of tasty noodle dishes and stir-fries here like gyūniku to gurīn asupara no atamemono (beef and asparagus stir-fry). Large daily lunch specials are ¥1365.
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Yabure-Kabure
There's only one thing on the menu in this boisterous spot: pick from a range of fugu set menus, such as the Ebisu course (¥5250), which features the cute little puffer in raw, seared, fried and drowned-in-sake incarnations. A lunchtime tetsuyaki setto (set meal with grilled fugu) is ¥3150. You can also order individual dishes. Look for the blue-and-white puffer fish outside.
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B
Shimonoseki Ijinkan
Tucked away in the old British Consulate courtyard, the Ijinkan coffee house has bygone European elegance and the theatrical ministrations of bow-tied 'coffee meister' Kunio Kanegae, who puts on a delightful little show if you order the café au lait.
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Sabō Kō
A cosy atmosphere prevails in this crowded little eatery, where customers perch on wooden stools sipping coffee. The speciality on the Japanese-only menu is wafū omuraisu (Japanese-style rice omelette; ¥800) but it also serves curries and soba. Look for the small wood-covered place with ceramic pots sticking out of the exterior plasterwork.
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Maru
A relaxed and modern young people's izakaya, Maru features the local beef, kenran-gyū (見蘭牛), available as sashimi (¥850), sushi (¥1000) or garlic steak (¥650). It also serves all the usual izakaya favourites. Try the Hagi no kuramoto udedameshi setto (¥1000) for a tasting set from six local sake breweries. Look for the large wooden door marked with a circle.
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La Francesca
Excellent Italian food is the main attraction at this elegant Tuscan villa, on the left as you head up the hill to the St Francis Xavier Memorial Church. Set-course options include the Pranzo (¥1890) at lunchtime and Verde (¥5250) in the evenings. The menu changes seasonally.
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C
Kaiten Karato Ichiba Sushi
This revolving sushi restaurant on the 2nd floor, right above the fish market, is a great place to get your hands on the freshest fish without needing to know what they're all called. It's closed when the market closes on some Wednesdays.
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Hub
Overlooking the main shopping street, this stylish cafe- restaurant serves Asian-style rice dishes, and pastas (such as an Italian tomato spaghetti lunch set, ¥980), and is a relaxing space for a late-night drink. Look for the grey sign next to the entrance, just around the corner off Eki-dōri.
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Hagi Shinkai
This is a popular seafood joint, a few minutes' walk from Higashi-Hagi Station. Seating is arranged around a large open tank in the floor, so you can peer at the doomed fish as you eat. There's a sashimi teishoku (¥2415), or ask for the manager-recommended Shinkai teishoku (¥1050/1890 at lunch/dinner), which includes sashimi, tempura and chawanmushi (steamed savoury egg custard). Look for the white building with the lighthouse.
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Don Don Udonya
A popular spot serving tasty udon, with plastic models in the window. Udon teishoku (udon set) goes for ¥580 and there are donburi standards like oyako-don (¥500). There's a cheaper morning selection. It's in a big black-and-white building on the right as you head away from the station.
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