Things to do in Western Honshū
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Peace Memorial Park
From the Atomic Bomb Dome, cross over into Peace Memorial Park , which is dotted with memorials, including the cenotaph (原爆死没者慰霊碑), which contains the names of all the known victims of the bomb. The cenotaph frames the Flame of Peace (平和の灯), which will only be extinguished once the last nuclear weapon on earth has been destroyed, and the Atomic Bomb Dome across the river.
Just north of the road through the park is the Children's Peace Monument (原爆の子の像), inspired by Sadako Sasaki. When Sadako developed leukaemia at 11 years of age in 1955, she decided to fold 1000 paper cranes. In Japan, the crane is the symbol of longevity and happiness, and she was…
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Children's Peace Monument
Just north of the road crossing through the Peace Memorial Park is, for many, the most poignant memorial in the park - the Children's Peace Monument, inspired by leukaemia victim Sadako Sasaki. When Sadako developed leukaemia at 10 years of age she decided to fold 1000 paper cranes - an ancient Japanese custom through which it is believed that a person's wishes will come true.
The crane is the symbol of longevity and happiness in Japan and she was convinced that if she could achieve that target she would recover. She died before reaching her goal, but her classmates folded the rest. The story inspired a nationwide bout of paper-crane folding, which continues to this day.
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Atomic Bomb Dome
Perhaps the starkest reminder of the destruction visited upon Hiroshima is the Atomic Bomb Dome , across the river from the Peace Memorial Park. Built by a Czech architect in 1915, the building served as the Industrial Promotion Hall until the bomb exploded almost directly above it. Everyone inside was killed, but the building itself was one of very few left standing anywhere near the epicentre. Despite local misgivings, a decision was taken after the war to preserve the shell of the building as a memorial. Declared a Unesco World Heritage Site in December 1996, the propped-up ruins are floodlit at night, and have become a grim symbol of the city's tragic past.
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Hiroshima-jō
Also known as Carp Castle, Hiroshima-jō was originally constructed in 1589, but much of it was dismantled following the Meiji Restoration, leaving only the donjon, main gates and turrets. The remainder was totally destroyed by the A-bomb and rebuilt in modern reinforced concrete in 1958.
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Kuro-sawa
This chic izakaya (Japanese-style pub) is hewn from bare concrete and attractively low-lit, a fine setting to savour goodies like charcoal-grilled pork with ginger sauce. Look for the MOS Burger outlet on the ground floor.
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Zucchini
Very lively Spanish-style tapas restaurant serving all the usual ham, cheese and fish goodies and paellas from ¥1400. It's a two-storey glass-fronted affair on the corner – you can't miss it.
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SWLABR
After the Bikan area closes down, relax with the good music and friendly staff at SWLABR. It's the green weatherboard house on the corner, a couple of blocks southeast of the station. Cocktails cost ¥600.
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Matsue History Museum
Matsue's new museum, which was opened in March 2011, has various displays and articles relating to the clan history of Matsue and its castle.
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Hino-yama
About 5km northeast of JR Shimonoseki Station there are superb views over the Kanmon-kaikyō from the top of 268m-high Hino-yama. Walk or drive to the top, as the ropeway is closed. Take a Ropeway-mae bus (¥360) to the Mimosusōgawa bus stop and walk up to the ropeway station, or take a Kokuminshukusha-mae bus straight to the bottom of the ropeway.
By the Mimosusōgawa-kōen bus stop are lifts that take you down to a free cross-strait walker's tunnel, popular with local joggers, for a 780-metre submarine walk to Kyūshū. It's a nice stroll around the seaside promenade on the Kyūshū side, but there are no restaurants.
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Karato Ichiba Fish Markets
A highlight of any trip to Shimonoseki is an early rise and a visit to the Karato Ichiba fish markets. The interesting stuff is on show from 04:00 to 08:00, so if you like to sleep in, forget it. The markets kick off at 02:00 for those in the industry, but the public is welcome from 04:00 - the earlier you get there the better. It's a great opportunity to try sashimi for breakfast or lunch, and the fish doesn't get any fresher - a fair bit will still be moving.
People-watching is almost as much fun as goggling at the many different sea creatures.
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Okonomi-mura
Twenty-five stalls spread over three floors, all of them serving the same thing – this Hiroshima institution is a good place to get acquainted with the local speciality of okonomiyaki, and chat with the cooks over a hot griddle. It's close to the Parco department store; look for the sign jutting out into the street.
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Hassei
The walls of this popular okonomiyaki joint are covered with the signatures of celebrity visitors. Unless you're a sumō wrestler, you'll probably find a half-order more than enough to be getting on with at lunchtime. Look for the wooden sign next to the doorway.
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Cha Cha Ni Moon
Sophisticated minimalist chic prevails in this softly lit old house. There's a bar downstairs and two floors of intimate semiprivate dining rooms upstairs. The beautifully presented dishes here are based on traditional Kyoto cuisine. Look for the small orange sign out the front.
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Akama-jingū shrine
Bright vermilion, this postwar Akama-jingū shrine is dedicated to the 8-year-old emperor Antoku, who died in 1185 in the naval battle of Dan-no-ura. In the Hōichi Hall stands a statue of the splendidly monikered Earless Hōichi, the hero of a traditional ghost story retold by Japanophile Lafcadio Hearn. The shrine is between Karato and Hino-yama. Get off the bus (¥230, 10 minutes) at the Akama-jingū-mae bus stop.
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Global Lounge
Formerly known as Book Nook, Global Lounge has second-hand Western books, mostly trade paperbacks, a notice board, and internet access (with special rates if you become a member). It also sells beers, wine and cocktails, and its English-speaking staff are happy to provide tourist information. It's in a language school called Outsider behind Iyo Bank and Yamaha music store. Look for the 2nd-floor sign.
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Bakudanya
Come to this simple street-corner stall to try another famous Hiroshima dish: tsukemen, a cold rāmen-like dish in which noodles and soup come separately. This is the original outlet; the chain has now spread across the country. A nami (medium-sized) serving of tsukemen is ¥750. Look for the green awning.
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Tōshō
A traditional wooden building in a beautiful garden setting, Tōshō specialises in homemade tofu (the menu has some pictures), served in a surprising variety of tasty forms. It's a short walk from Danbara 1 chōme (段原一丁目) tram stop, left uphill after the Hijiyama shrine.
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Kappo Nakao
This is a sophisticated fugu restaurant in Karato, with graceful service and splendidly prepared dishes. The presentation and relaxed atmosphere are worth it even if you don't try the fugu. The set lunches, such as the fuku kaiseki (fugu course), are decent value. Look for the stone lantern and wooden gate at the front.
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Kōji
This busy, elegant Chinese eatery on the 7th floor of the Daimaru shopping complex claims a lineage with one of the oldest soba shops in Tokyo's Asakusa. There's a variety of tasty noodle dishes and stir-fries here like gyūniku to gurīn asupara no atamemono (beef and asparagus stir-fry). Large daily lunch specials are ¥1365.
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Hiroshima Peace Memorial Park and Miyajima Island Tour from Hiroshima
by Viator
Explore World Heritage sites in Hiroshima and Miyajima in one day! Miyajima is famous for its Itsukushima Jinja Shrine. Its red torii gate appears to be standin…
Not LP reviewed
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Shukkei-en
Modelled after Xi Hu (West Lake) in Hangzhou, China, Shukkei-en was built in 1620 for daimyō (domain lord) Asano Nagaakira. The garden's name means 'contracted view', and it attempts to re-create grand vistas in miniature. The garden was totally destroyed by the bomb, though many of the trees and plants survived to blossom again the following year, and the park and its buildings have long since been restored to their original splendour.
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Hiroshima Carp game
A love of baseball is not a prerequisite for having a great time at a Hiroshima Carp game. It's just as much fun watching the rowdy, organised enthusiasm of the crowd, especially when the Tokyo Giants come to town. The stadium is just north of the Peace Park, and outfield tickets start at ¥1500.
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Yabure-Kabure
There's only one thing on the menu in this boisterous spot: pick from a range of fugu set menus, such as the Ebisu course (¥5250), which features the cute little puffer in raw, seared, fried and drowned-in-sake incarnations. A lunchtime tetsuyaki setto (set meal with grilled fugu) is ¥3150. You can also order individual dishes. Look for the blue-and-white puffer fish outside.
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Mazda Museum
Popular for the chance to see the 7km assembly line – the longest in the world. See the website for tour times; reservations are required. The museum is a short walk from JR Mukainada (向洋) Station, two stops from Hiroshima on the San-yō line.
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Koba
Koba is a very chill place to enjoy a drink, pizza, pasta or curry and an eclectic range of music; friendly manager Bom is a musician and hosts live acts now and again as well as works by local artists. It's in a concrete building with a pool of water by the entrance, just behind Stussy.
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