Things to do in Onomichi
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Yasuhiro Sushi
Enjoy excellent local seafood in this cosy, traditional black-and-white building on the seafront, five to 10 minutes' walk from the station. Try the sashimi teishoku (¥1600) at lunchtime. Prices start from around ¥8000 in the evening.
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Yamaneko
Retro furnishings, battered-looking walls decorated with local artwork, and a mellow playlist add up to a relaxed spot for a drink or light meal (pasta carbonara is ¥930). Find it on a corner along the waterfront road, a 15-minute walk from the station, just before Royal Hotel. Look for the cats.
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Shiga Naoya Residence
Around the corner from the literature museum is the house where Shiga Naoya, another of Japan's major 20th-century writers, lived from 1912 to 1913.
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Onomichi Rāmen Ichibankan
Opposite the Sumiyoshi shrine on the waterfront, a 15-minute walk from the station, this popular noodle shop is a good place to try Onomichi rāmen, characterised by thick slabs of juicy pork. Its best seller is the kaku-ni rāmen (角煮ラーメン; noodles with eggs and tender cuts of fatty pork) for ¥890.
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Onomichi Literature Museum
Close to the fourth temple along the temple walk, Hōdo-ji, this museum features displays on the lives and works of Hayashi Fumiko and other writers connected with Onomichi. It's all in Japanese, but the proprietor speaks English and will delight in taking you through it all at length.
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Historical Temple Walk
This well-signed trail, taking in 25 old temples, starts just east of the station: take the inland road from the station and cross the railway tracks by the statue of local author Hayashi Fumiko. About a third of the way along the route is a cable car that whisks you up to the hilltop Senkō-ji (千光寺), the best known and most impressive of Onomichi's temples, and its pleasant park.
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