Jakotsu-Yu

Lonely Planet review

This Edo-era bath is one of our favourite sentō in Tokyo (and the preferred place of repose for neighbourhood yakuza , Japanese mafia, as well). First, be warned: the bathers here adore this place and initially will watch you carefully to make sure no dirty or soapy bodies make their way into the sacred tub. Once you've convinced them you're up to scrubbing every inch, head into the incredibly hot indoor soaking area where you'll be massaged by tea-coloured water that is propelled by vigorous jets.

Once you're cooked, you're ready for the real treat: the lovely, lantern-lit, rock-framed rotemburo (outdoor bath) that's just outside. The water in this little pool is much more temperate and now that your muscles have been turned to loose string by the heat, you could sit here for hours, perhaps wandering occasionally to the cold bath a few steps away, just to keep yourself awake. Keep in mind that the sauna is off limits unless you pay an additional fee.