Traditional restaurants in Tokyo
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A
Kado
Set in a house built in 1950 in a residential neighbourhood, Kado reveals a rare glimpse of Tokyo prior to the late-20th-century economic miracle. Lunch is simple, such as curry rice or om-rice (seasoned rice in an omelette), while five-course dinners emphasise traditional Japanese recipes and seasonal produce, enhanced by the familial ambience. There is no English menu, though the staff do their best to accommodate. From Kagurazaka Station, turn left and left again into the jagged street across from Copain Copine; Kado is at the first four-way corner.
reviewed
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B
Kushiya Monogatari
The Tokyo branch of this popular Osaka chain specialises in kushiage, which are deep-fried skewers of grilled meats, fish and vegetables. For the bargain price of only ¥2625, you have up to 90 minutes to fry up at your tabletop as many skewers as you’d like. Since this is one of the few Japanese foods where it’s probably best to go easy and consider your waistline, there are also salads and rice.
reviewed
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C
Komagata Dojō
The sixth-generation chef running this marvellous restaurant is continuing the tradition of transforming the humble river fish called dojō (aka dozeu, Japanese loach, which look something like miniature eels) into various incarnations: from grilled to miso-simmered, to stewed on your own private hibachi. The open seating around wide, wooden planks heightens the traditional flavour.
reviewed
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D
Isegen
From early autumn to mid-spring, this old Edo-style restaurant dishes up monkfish stew in a splendid communal tatami room. The rest of the year, when monkfish is out of season, expect the same traditional surroundings and a menu offering fresh river fish. There is no English menu, but the communal surroundings mean that it shouldn’t be too hard to point to what you want.
reviewed
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E
Hantei
In an updated Meiji-era house, delectable set menus of skewers of kushiage (fried meat, fish and vegetables) are counterbalanced by small, refreshing side dishes. Lunch courses are eight sticks, and dinner courses start with six, with add-on courses available (from ¥1365). All you really need to decide is whether to drink sake or beer.
reviewed
