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Sakana-Tei
This unpretentious but slightly posh izakaya is a sake specialist much sought after by connoisseurs, and is good value for the quality. Though there's no English menu, you can point to dishes displayed on the counter, and start with a sampler set of sake. Call ahead for reservations, but turn off your mobile phone once you're in - house rules.
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Sakana-Ya Ajisen
Although this neighbourhood sake pub is hidden away from the tourist masses on the island of Tsukishima, it's the real deal, and worth seeking out if you want to sample real brews and indulge on traditional dishes. The lack of an English menu means you'll have to work hard here if you don't speak Japanese, though it's worth the effort to sample rare koshu (aged sakes) and the house speciality, anago (braised seawater eel).
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Sakata
If you eat only one meal out, you'd do well to eat it here. Sakata is widely recognised as one of the city's most classic noodle spots, and the sanuki udon (a thick, silky noodle of exceptional firmness) here is divine. Gracious Sakata-san doesn't speak English but will go out of his way to feed you if you look confused.
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Sasa-No-Yuki
Sasa-no-Yuki opened its doors in the thriving Edo period, and continues to serve tofu in elegant arrangements and traditional surroundings. Set meals allow you to sample a broad range of tofu delicacies, the majority of which are as inventive as they are delicious. Strict vegetarians should note that many dishes include chicken and fish stock, if not the meat itself. If you don't read Japanese, you can select from the set courses based on price.
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Sasashū
Sasashū's Japanese-style façade is easy to pick out between the modern concrete strip joints nearby. This relaxed izakaya is known for its highbrow sake selection and its traditional hearth, as well as some more unusual offerings including a rich and hearty kamonabe (duck stew). Japanese skills are helpful here, but you can also point at what others are enjoying to order for yourself.
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Seibu
Food hall panning several city blocks, with a particularly comprehensive spice market.
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Seigetsu
In a district that is increasingly becoming dominated by chain pubs, this traditional Japanese izakaya is perfect for all of your dining and drinking needs, especially since there are on-call shōchū consultants to help you match your meal to your booze. Although there isn't an English menu, the speciality here is charcoal-grilled meats and vegetables, so you shouldn't have too many problems pointing out what you want.
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Selan Restaurant
Come here for the lovely atmosphere rather than the Japanese-style Italian food, especially during the fall foliage season, when the surrounding gingko trees blaze, bright yellow.
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Seryna
Though it feels a bit aged, like the high-quality Kōbe beef that draws expats and visiting guests here, Seryna provides a dignified backdrop for shabu-shabu , sukiyaki and teppanyaki (table-top grilling). The restaurant surrounds an attractive rock garden.
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Shamaim
A quick train ride from Ikebukuro will bring you to this Israeli-owned restaurant, which serves up an incredible all-you-can-eat feast that'll having you dreaming about a trip to the Middle East. Gorge yourself on pita, hummus, meat skewers, cucumber salads and rice pilaf, but be sure to save some room for a hot cup of mint tea, some syrupy baklava and the obligatory apple sheesha.
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Shizenkan Ii
Strict vegans and vegetarians looking to sample Japanese favourites may find it tough in Tokyo, though Shizenkan II fills the gap with gluten cutlets and substantial lunch sets of prettily arranged piles of vegies. The food is flavourful and packs a nutritional wallop, and there's even a health food shop in the front part of the restaurant in case you're looking to stock the fridge at home.
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Shunsenbō
Specialising in tōfu and shabu-shabu , courses here are a real bargain considering the quality of the food and the elegant surroundings. Shunsenbō's smooth, silky tofu is prepared in-house, and they have an English menu.
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Sometaro
Sometaro is a fun and funky place to try okonomiyaki, which are Japanese-style pancakes filled with meat, seafood and vegetables that you cook yourself. It's a friendly spot where the English menu even includes a how-to guide for even the most culinary challenged of restaurant goers.
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Sonoma
Favourites like polenta fries and pork chops with sage, brown sugar and apples form the mainstay of this unpretentiously inspired and priced Californian fusion menu. The interior resembles a Sonoma wine country restaurant and the menu is complemented by a strong selection of Californian wines.
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Sushi-Sei
Taste top-notch sushi at Sushi-sei, which traces its ancestry back to Tsukiji. Like Akasaka itself, Sushi-sei conducts serious business. Try to hit it during off-peak hours, or expect to queue with hungry government officials and financial movers and shakers. The low-profile shop is set back slightly from the street.
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T Y Harbor Brewery
Sometimes a good beer can be hard to find, especially in a country that favours mass-produced lagers instead of fostering a culture of microbrews. Fortunately, this American-style brew pub serves up any number of original homebrews that are sure to take the edge off while simultaneously pleasing the palate.
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Takashimaya Times Square
Like the 15-storey department store above it, this depachika (food hall) is enormous.
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Taverna
There are reasons why some people eat here every night, and why the sommelier, who started hanging around 23 years ago while still a student at Waseda, finally landed a job with owner Ide-san. Authenticity's a part of it, but the charm of the owner probably clinches such unflagging loyalty. Easily the warmest cheap Italian joint in the city, and you can't beat the price.
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Ten-Ichi
Since 1930 tempura at the much esteemed Ten-Ichi has rightfully earned its reputation as supernaturally light and nongreasy. The dignified dining area at the flagship Ginza shop is a pleasure, though you can expect to spend significant coin for the privilege of dining here. Ten-Ichi is regarded as the city's best tempura, which means you're going to need a reservation if you want to dine among those in the know.
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Ten-Ten Tsune-Tsune Kaitenbo
There's no shortage of great Chinese restaurants in 'Little Hong Kong,' though we can promise you that you've never seen quite anything like this novelty dim sum spot. Drawing inspiration from kaiten-zushi (conveyor-belt sushi) restaurants, Tenten Tsunetsune Kaitenbou (try saying that with your mouth full!) offers conveyor-belt dim sum feasts to hungry shoppers in need of a dumpling-fuelled boost. Although there is a limited English menu, it's not hard to grab what looks good!
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Tetsugen Nikusho
There's no shortage of bizarre (at least to a Western palate) delicacies on offer at Tetsugen Nikusho, which offers refined rustic yet sophisticated ambience in the heart of Tokyo. Depending on how brave (or drunk) you're feeling, you can sample a whole range of traditional Japanese meats including rabbit, boar, deer, horse and frog as well as a whole bunch of sea critter parts that don't really translate into English.
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Toki-No-Ma
True to the Ebisu spirit, this izakaya is a class act. For your drinking pleasure, the attentive staff can recommend any number of limited-edition sakes, which change constantly depending on the season. For your eating pleasure, the attentive staff can recommend any number of unique dishes including satusma-ryouri (Kyūshū-style cuisine), wild game birds and a full assortment of seafood delicacies. Although there is no English menu, set courses are available if you can't speak Japanese.
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Tokyo Dai Hanten
Established in 1960, Tokyo Dai Hanten is one of your few possibilities for yum cha (dim sum) and the place of choice for Hong Kong expats. Especially brisk and fresh are weekend brunches, served in the customary manner, with yum cha rolling by on trolleys for you to flag down at will.
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Tomoegata
Given the preponderance of sumō stables in Ryōgoku, it's only natural that you'd find restaurants serving the calorie-rich chankonabe . Recipes vary for this hearty stew, but count on beef, chicken, pork, fish and/or seasonal vegetables. Tomoegata has been serving it for generations - go with a group, or eat it all by yourself if you want to become big like a sumō wrestler.
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Toriyoshi Dining
Toriyoshi does yakitori stepped up a notch in sophistication, pairing it with wine and cocktails without sacrificing its earthy, charcoal-grilled appeal. Set dinners are a good way to try a variety of the house yakitori and tofu, and the cool, friendly atmosphere enhances the mood.
