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Izu-ei
Izu-ei specialises in unagi (eel), which you can take in two ways: in a bentō (lunch box) that includes tempura and pickled vegetables, or charcoal-grilled, sauced and laid on a bed of steamed rice, as unagi purists might insist. Try to get seated near an upstairs window for the best views of the large lily pads of nearby Shinobazu-ike. Although there is no English menu, there is a picture menu of sliced up eels to help you choose.
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Kado
If you haven't had the privilege of eating dinner inside a Japanese home, a meal at Kado is a close approximation. Housed in a Shōwa-era house built in 1950, Kado reveals a rare glimpse of what life was like in Tokyo prior to the economic miracle that transformed the capital in the second half of the 20th century. Dishes, which emphasise traditional Japanese recipes and seasonal produce, are enhanced by the incredible service and familial ambience.
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Kaikaya
This friendly izakaya is a little tricky to find, but once you're there you'll be rewarded by its friendly atmosphere and excellent, seasonal fish dishes that use fusion elements without losing too much of the food's essential Japanese strengths. Also, happily, this place has an English menu. Walking along Dōgenzaka away from Shibuya station, turn right at the police box and ask for directions.
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Kanda Yabu Soba
A wooden wall and a small garden enclose this venerable buckwheat noodle shop. When you walk in, the staff singing out the orders will be one of the first signs that you've arrived in a singular, ageless place. Raised tatami platforms and a darkly wooded dining room set the stage for show-stopping soba .
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Kantipur
Happily for vegetarians, this Nepalese restaurant has a broad range of acceptable edibles, and the portions of curries and tandoori dishes are large. Kantipur is in the basement of its building, whose entrance is marked by the small, brightly coloured signs on the street.
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Kao Tai
From the bamboo-framed doorway leading downstairs to its snug dining room, Kao Tai feels like a warm slice of Southeast Asia. Most dishes are small-plate affairs, allowing you to sample and share while swigging a Singha. While not the most complicated Thai food around, the room's feel more than makes up for it.
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Keika Kumamoto Rāmen
The Kyūshū-style tonkotsu rāmen (pork-broth-based noodles), is worth queuing for at this nationally famous rāmen shop. You order and pay as you enter; try the chāshū-men ( rāmen with sliced pork). There's no English sign, so look for the large, multicoloured cartoon mural of a chef and pigs on its exterior.
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Khazana
Come early to snag one of the coveted tables out on the deck for maximum sensory pleasure. This Indian restaurant serves a good all-you-can-eat buffet lunch and has a fair amount of vegetarian options on the menu.
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Kinkantei
Although the heart of Tokyo's gay district is just about the last place you'd expect to find a 200-year-old soba shop, Kinkantei is the real thing. Although purists swear that soba this traditional should just be eaten as is, more avant-garde diners can dress their dishes up with a whole slew of treats including the restaurant's signature deep-fried nattō (fermented beans) wrapped in seaweed.
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Kisso
In a contemporary, urban-style setting, Kisso is doubtless the most accessible place in Tokyo to sample Japan's traditional haute cuisine , kaiseki ryōri , presented in gorgeous lacquer and ceramic ware. It's best to order omakase (chef's choice) and put your dining fate into the hands of the chef. Lunch is a great deal, but dinner will feel more serene.
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Km Fils
The menu at this sophisticated, Mediterranean-leaning little bistro is designed by Kiyoshi Miyashiro, the initials behind the name. Complementing the Gallic cuisine is the jazz in the background and the knowledge that you're enjoying a sweet deal - all of which compensates for the sometimes snooty service.
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Komagata Dojō
The sixth-generation chef running this marvellous restaurant is continuing the tradition of transforming the humble river fish called the dojō (something like an eel) into various incarnations: grilled to miso-simmered to stewed. The open seating around wide, wooden planks heightens the traditional flavour.
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Kua 'Aina
From the shores of Haleiwa comes this Hawaiian burger chain, which serves up the obligatory pineapple-topped burgers in a tropical-themed setting. Lovers of avocado, fabulous chips, savoury mahi-mahi fillets and innovative microbrews would be wise to pop by for lunch, even if only to watch salarymen dreaming of warmer climes.
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Kujiraya
We'll leave it to you and your dinner companions to debate the ethics of this surprisingly popular restaurant, which serves nothing but whale meat. Conservation, environmentalism and morality aside, there are few places in the world where you can sample whale sashimi, fried blubber and fin steaks, though you're going to have to leave your politics at the door.
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Kushiya Monogatari
The Tokyo branch of this popular Osaka chain specialises in kushiage, which are deep-fried skewers of grilled meats, fish and vegetables. For the bargain price of only around ¥2500 , you have up to two hours to fry up at your tabletop as many skewers as you'd like, though this is one of the few Japanese foods where it's probably best to go easy and consider your waistline.
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Kyūbei
Established in 1936, the unbelievable quality and flawless presentation of Kyūbei's sushi and sashimi spreads is still revered in restaurant-rich Ginza. If you request it beforehand - and reservations are highly recommended - the owner will arrange for your meal to be served on fine pottery thrown by Rosanjin Kitaoji. In a city reluctant to apply sushi superlatives, this spot is truly considered by Tokyoites to be one of the best.
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L'atelier De Joël Robuchon
Wonder chef Jöel Robuchon styled this upscale French diner in the fashion of the sushi bar counter. While the fantastic dishes are not overly fussy, everything is made to order, which can mean long waits in the queue and over your meal - leaving plenty of time for conversation and anticipation.
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L'Osier
In Tokyo, French restaurants are at the top of the culinary ladder, which is why it's no small feat that local gourmets consider L'Osier to be the best around. But if you wish to analyse the foie gras yourself, you'll need to book as far as possible in advance since a table at L'Osier is a highly coveted commodity. However, once the wine hits your head and the food hits your lips, you'll key into the Art Deco-inspired surroundings and realise that Paris isn't that far away after all.
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Le Bretagne
Le Bretagne's wonderful set menus, with their buckwheat galettes as the centrepieces, are authentic and filling. The sweet or savoury Breton-style crêpes can also be ordered à la carte for mere pocket change - change well-spent on the freshest ingredients and tasty creations of these exacting French chefs.
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Les Deux Bleue
Spend a bit of time in Tokyo, and you'll quickly realise that the Japanese are avid dog lovers. Considering that a day out at Odaiba should be about the whole family, this dog-friendly café serves up tasty treats for both humans and their canine companions. Fill up on meaty burgers or tofu treats, though be sure to save some for Spot - after your meal, you can both burn off the calories by running around the fenced-in dog enclosure.
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Lotus Palace
Lunch and dinner is an absolute steal at this foreigner-friendly Vietnamese noodle shop, which serves up set-course meals that are centred on huge bowls of pho and rounded out by shrimp spring rolls and mung bean pudding. If you need to put an extra spring in your step, the syrupy Vietnamese coffee with condensed milk will get you where you want to be.
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Maisen
Set in a converted public bathhouse, Maisen is rightfully famous for its tonkatsu - choose from shrimp, pork or premium kurobuta (black pig). There's also a takeaway window for picking up bentō of tonkatsu accompanied by packets of Maisen's savoury dipping sauce.
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Malaychan
With its great location on a corner across from Nishi-Ikebukuro Park, Malaychan is Ikebukuro's most pleasant place to eat. Its Malaysian cuisine is also a rarity in Tokyo, serving a tasty breadth of dishes representing the country's multiethnic background.
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Marmara
The tiny wooden shack that marks the entrance and dispenses dirt-cheap takeaway kebab is so small you might pass it by without remark. Once through the door, however, you'll see the stairs leading down to the spacious seating area where there's sometimes live music, but always solicitous staff and a dizzying choice of Turkish delights.
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Marugo Tonkatsu
In Akihabara's megawatt circus, Marugo sits serenely unplugged in one of the few prewar houses remaining in the area. Although the serene interior full of nostalgic diners is nothing like the otaku (geek) parade that's outside, Marugo survives by offerings some seriously delicious tonkatsu atop piles of fresh shredded cabbage.
