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Maisen
Set in a converted public bathhouse, Maisen is rightfully famous for its tonkatsu - choose from shrimp, pork or premium kurobuta (black pig). There's also a takeaway window for picking up bentō of tonkatsu accompanied by packets of Maisen's savoury dipping sauce.
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Marugo Tonkatsu
In Akihabara's megawatt circus, Marugo sits serenely unplugged in one of the few prewar houses remaining in the area. Although the serene interior full of nostalgic diners is nothing like the otaku (geek) parade that's outside, Marugo survives by offerings some seriously delicious tonkatsu atop piles of fresh shredded cabbage.
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Namiki Yabu Soba
Another member of the Yabu Soba family (they have a sister store in Kanda) that has withstood the encroachment of high-rises, this little brown house continues to thrive as it has for almost 100 years. It specialises in tempura soba, which is still served at communal tables allowing for a boisterous dining experience.
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Natural Harmony Angolo
Downshift to the pace of Natural Harmony Angolo, where the wholesome food is pure and so is the smoke-free air. The menu is largely vegetarian, augmented with some fish dishes; set meals featuring the delicately prepared vegetables du jour come with a choice of white or brown rice. Try some cold, cloudy sake with your meal and meditatively decompress.
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Nobu
Stemming from a childhood wish to become a sushi chef, Nobu Matsuhisa now has namesake restaurants in cities on four continents. His 1993 foray into the New York scene was financed by Robert De Niro, with subsequent Nobu restaurants established in Milan, Paris, London, Melbourne and Tokyo. His stunning, cutting-edge Japanese food doesn't come cheap, but the experience of eating here is simply phenomenal.
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Okinawa
If you've never been to the far-flung tropical islands of Okinawa, then this speciality izakaya will have you racing to the travel agent. Start things off right with a cold Orion Beer or a potent glass of awamori (Okinawan-style shōchū ), and then jump right into Okinawan staples such as mimiga (pig ears), suki-soba (Okinawan-style soba ) and rafute (stewed pork with brown sugar).
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Omoide-Yokochō
Literally translated as 'Memory Lane' (and less politely known as 'Piss Alley') Omoide-yokochō will be but a memory when it's razed to make way for new development by mid-2009. A remnant of postwar Tokyo, the alley is lined with wooden shacks selling yakitori and cold beers to long-time regulars - stop by around to indulge in a few skewers and preemptive nostalgia.
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Sakana-Tei
This unpretentious but slightly posh izakaya is a sake specialist much sought after by connoisseurs, and is good value for the quality. Though there's no English menu, you can point to dishes displayed on the counter, and start with a sampler set of sake. Call ahead for reservations, but turn off your mobile phone once you're in - house rules.
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Sakana-Ya Ajisen
Although this neighbourhood sake pub is hidden away from the tourist masses on the island of Tsukishima, it's the real deal, and worth seeking out if you want to sample real brews and indulge on traditional dishes. The lack of an English menu means you'll have to work hard here if you don't speak Japanese, though it's worth the effort to sample rare koshu (aged sakes) and the house speciality, anago (braised seawater eel).
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Sakata
If you eat only one meal out, you'd do well to eat it here. Sakata is widely recognised as one of the city's most classic noodle spots, and the sanuki udon (a thick, silky noodle of exceptional firmness) here is divine. Gracious Sakata-san doesn't speak English but will go out of his way to feed you if you look confused.
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Sasa-No-Yuki
Sasa-no-Yuki opened its doors in the thriving Edo period, and continues to serve tofu in elegant arrangements and traditional surroundings. Set meals allow you to sample a broad range of tofu delicacies, the majority of which are as inventive as they are delicious. Strict vegetarians should note that many dishes include chicken and fish stock, if not the meat itself. If you don't read Japanese, you can select from the set courses based on price.
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Sasashū
Sasashū's Japanese-style façade is easy to pick out between the modern concrete strip joints nearby. This relaxed izakaya is known for its highbrow sake selection and its traditional hearth, as well as some more unusual offerings including a rich and hearty kamonabe (duck stew). Japanese skills are helpful here, but you can also point at what others are enjoying to order for yourself.
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Seibu
Food hall panning several city blocks, with a particularly comprehensive spice market.
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Seigetsu
In a district that is increasingly becoming dominated by chain pubs, this traditional Japanese izakaya is perfect for all of your dining and drinking needs, especially since there are on-call shōchū consultants to help you match your meal to your booze. Although there isn't an English menu, the speciality here is charcoal-grilled meats and vegetables, so you shouldn't have too many problems pointing out what you want.
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Seryna
Though it feels a bit aged, like the high-quality Kōbe beef that draws expats and visiting guests here, Seryna provides a dignified backdrop for shabu-shabu , sukiyaki and teppanyaki (table-top grilling). The restaurant surrounds an attractive rock garden.
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Shizenkan Ii
Strict vegans and vegetarians looking to sample Japanese favourites may find it tough in Tokyo, though Shizenkan II fills the gap with gluten cutlets and substantial lunch sets of prettily arranged piles of vegies. The food is flavourful and packs a nutritional wallop, and there's even a health food shop in the front part of the restaurant in case you're looking to stock the fridge at home.
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Shunsenbō
Specialising in tōfu and shabu-shabu , courses here are a real bargain considering the quality of the food and the elegant surroundings. Shunsenbō's smooth, silky tofu is prepared in-house, and they have an English menu.
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T Y Harbor Brewery
Sometimes a good beer can be hard to find, especially in a country that favours mass-produced lagers instead of fostering a culture of microbrews. Fortunately, this American-style brew pub serves up any number of original homebrews that are sure to take the edge off while simultaneously pleasing the palate.
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Takashimaya Times Square
Like the 15-storey department store above it, this depachika (food hall) is enormous.
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Tetsugen Nikusho
There's no shortage of bizarre (at least to a Western palate) delicacies on offer at Tetsugen Nikusho, which offers refined rustic yet sophisticated ambience in the heart of Tokyo. Depending on how brave (or drunk) you're feeling, you can sample a whole range of traditional Japanese meats including rabbit, boar, deer, horse and frog as well as a whole bunch of sea critter parts that don't really translate into English.
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Toki-No-Ma
True to the Ebisu spirit, this izakaya is a class act. For your drinking pleasure, the attentive staff can recommend any number of limited-edition sakes, which change constantly depending on the season. For your eating pleasure, the attentive staff can recommend any number of unique dishes including satusma-ryouri (Kyūshū-style cuisine), wild game birds and a full assortment of seafood delicacies. Although there is no English menu, set courses are available if you can't speak Japanese.
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Tomoegata
Given the preponderance of sumō stables in Ryōgoku, it's only natural that you'd find restaurants serving the calorie-rich chankonabe . Recipes vary for this hearty stew, but count on beef, chicken, pork, fish and/or seasonal vegetables. Tomoegata has been serving it for generations - go with a group, or eat it all by yourself if you want to become big like a sumō wrestler.
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Toriyoshi Dining
Toriyoshi does yakitori stepped up a notch in sophistication, pairing it with wine and cocktails without sacrificing its earthy, charcoal-grilled appeal. Set dinners are a good way to try a variety of the house yakitori and tofu, and the cool, friendly atmosphere enhances the mood.
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Yabu Soba
Near the arcade, this busy, famous place rustles up top-class soba , from the simple zaru soba - plain, cold buckwheat noodles to dip in broth - to the richly filling tenseiro (noodles topped with shrimp and vegetable tempura). There's a picture menu to help you choose. Look for the black-granite sign in front that says in English 'Since 1892'.
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Yappari Tako
Although Yappari Tako serves up the full complement of your standard izakaya offerings, the real reason you're here is to sample their speciality tako (たこ; octopus) dishes. If you're having hesitations about sucking down a few plates of tentacled titbits, the attentive staff will offer you a glass of the shōchū of the day in order to ease your inhibitions and relax your throat.
