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Tsunahachi
Sit at the counter for the pleasure of watching the efficient chefs fry each perfect tempura and plate them one by one. From Shinjuku-dōri as you face Mitsukoshi department store, go down the small street to its left; Tsunahachi will be on your left. There's another, airier branch on the 13th floor at Takashimaya Times Square.
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Umaya
This atmospheric, traditionally styled restaurant serves a variety of Japanese dishes, incorporating free-range chicken, house-made tōfu and a surprising number of vegetarian dishes (though not so many at lunch). To find it from Hitotsugi-dōri, head for Akasaka-fudōson-jinja but turn left just inside the shrine gate.
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Ume-No-Hana
This traditional, elegant restaurant is rightfully renowned for their tōfu-ryori , kaiseki (elegant, multi-course Japanese meals) meals that showcase tofu and yuba (tofu 'skin') in beautifully presented small courses. Both niku-nashi (vegetarian) and meat-inclusive sets are available, but ordering will be problematic unless you have a Japanese speaker make the reservation for you and help you decide the best set for you and your party.
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Yonehana
This family-run unagi (eel) restaurant in Tsukiji Market is now in the hands of its third generation, and the friendly, English-speaking chef is happy to make recommendations. It's an excellent spot to try unagi (eel) if you're not up for a sushi breakfast.
