Entertainment in Tokyo
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Ageha
This gigantic waterside club rivals any you’d find in LA or Ibiza. Mostly international DJs appear here, with Japanese DJs filling out the mix. Counterbalancing the thumping dance floors are lounge spaces and a little pool area. Free buses run to the club every half-hour from the east side of Shibuya Station on Roppongi-dōri; bring photo ID.
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Bobby's Bar
One of Tokyo's longest-standing and best-known gaijin bars, perfect for those in need of a warm barstool, a dartboard and reasonably priced drinks (from around ¥500). The crowd here is always international - a good mix of long-time expats and travellers.
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Bar Plastic Model
Bar Plastic Model is one of the new joints run by a younger generation in venerable Golden Gai, with an ’80s soundtrack and decorated with retro knick-knacks.
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Kabuki-Za (Kabuki Theatre)
Performances and times vary from month to month at Kabuki-za so check with the TIC (Tourist Information Center; ) or the theatre for programme information. Be sure to rent a headset for blow-by-blow explanations in English, and pick up a bentō downstairs. A full kabuki performance comprises three or four acts (usually from different plays) over an afternoon or an evening (typically 11:00 to 15:30 or 16:30 to 21:00), with long intervals between the acts.
If four-plus hours sounds too long, you can purchase last-minute tickets for a single act, although seats are only on the highest balcony. Since some acts tend to be more popular than others, inquire ahead as to which to…
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Shimbashi Embujō Theatre
While Ginza’s storied Kabuki-za Theatre is being rebuilt until 2013, corporate owner Shōchiku will mainly stage the plays at its Embujō Theatre, which also puts on super kabuki, a rocking subgenre that incorporates modern stagecraft. A full performance of traditional kabuki comprises three or four acts (usually from different plays) over an afternoon or an evening (typically 11am to 3.30pm or 4.30pm to 9pm), with long intervals between the acts. If four-plus hours sounds too long, you can usually purchase last-minute tickets for a single act. Since some acts tend to be more popular than others, enquire ahead as to which to catch, and arrive well in advance.
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Pasela
Pasela boasts decor that is a cut above the other yodelling parlours. With six floors of karaoke rooms including swanky VIP suites, this branch of the chain is right in the heart of Roppongi. There's an extensive selection of Western songs, wine, champagne and sweets on the menu and a decent Mexican bar-restaurant in the basement. From 17:00 to 19:00 it's karaoke happy hour - around ¥400 yen including one drink.
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Session House
Most dance aficionados consider Session House one of the best traditional-, folk- and modern-dance spaces in the city. The small theatre seats only 100 people, which means that all performances have an intimate feel to them. Exit right from the station, make a right into the first narrow alley, and turn left where it becomes a dead-end. Session House will be a few metres on your right. Performances start around 7pm.
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Tokyo Philharmonic Orchestra
Founded in Nagoya in 1911, the Tokyo Philharmonic is Japan's oldest and largest orchestra with 166 members. Featuring distinguished foreign soloists and conductors and a perennial presence on the NHK TV New Year's special, the Philharmonic is based at Tokyo Opera City in Shinjuku but also performs at Suntory Hall in the Ark Hills complex in Akasaka ( M052C) and at Bunkamura Orchard Hall (M04FD) in Shibuya.
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Za Kōenji
Za Kōenji stages Japanese and foreign contemporary plays, dance, music and storytelling events. Designed by Itō Toyō, this architecturally splendid venue in western Tokyo opened in May 2009. It houses three theatres, a literature archive and the very sleek cafe Henri Fabre. A rehearsal hall here is set aside for the neighbourhood’s summer Awa Ōdori dance parade.
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Beer Bar Bitter
This mellow Euro-bar in Kagurazaka has a super selection of Belgian beers from around ¥900, as well as snacks such as Iberico ham (¥1300). Going up Kagurazaka hill, look for the fourth lane on your right, called Honda-yokochō ( 本多横町 ). Go down it until you see a pale, three-story building on your right with a red yakitori lantern hanging outside. Take the stairs on the right.
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Kokuritsu Nō-Gakudō
This theatre stages the traditional music, poetry and dances that nō is famous for, as well as the interludes of kyōgen (short, lively comic farces) that serve as cathartic comic relief. The stark legends and historical dramas unfold on an elegant cypress stage. Each seat has a small screen that can display an English translation of the dialogue.
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National Nō Theatre
The National Nō Theatre stages its own nō (classical Japanese musical dramas) performances on weekends only, for which it provides printed English synopses, but it also hosts privately-sponsored performances. Exit Sendagaya Station in the direction of Shinjuku on the left and follow the road that hugs the railway tracks; the theatre will be on the left.
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Sake Plaza
Sake Plaza isn’t a bar, but who cares when you can get five thimbles of regionally brewed sake for only ¥525. This showroom and tasting space is a perfect way to start the night while learning about the national drink. It’s on the ground floor of the Japan Sake Brewers Association Building ( 日本酒造会館 ).
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Green Plaza Ladies Sauna
Women also have a place to wash and crash in Kabukichō. This central, 24-hour sentō (public bath) and spa for women is a calming refuge, where you can get a massage after you bathe, have a bite to eat, and then blissfully snooze away until the morning trains begin running. Best of all, there's a rooftop rotemburo (outdoor bath).
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Eggman
Follow the spiral staircase to the basement to hear blues, rock or light jazz musicians get down low. Most acts are local and of the lighter, sweeter variety. Show up to see whether tickets aren’t completely sold out on a given night, and be sure to take a quick listen at the door to sample before committing. Most shows commence at around 7pm.
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Dentsū Shiki Theatre Umi
Located in the Shio-Site complex beside the headquarters of the Dentsū advertising group, Shiki Theatre Sea stages Japanese versions of hit Western works such as Mamma Mia! and Aida. Other Shiki theatres near Takeshiba station on the Yurikamome monorail stage shows such as The Lion King. See the website for details.
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Abbey Road
Abbey Road is one of the two Roppongi clubs with uncannily good live Beatles tribute bands. Pull up a chair and prepare to be flabbergasted by the house Beatles cover bands - all Japanese, all seriousness, and appearances aside, pretty dang impressive. Aside from the cover, there's a two-drink minimum. Book ahead if you can, especially on weekends.
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Asahi Sky Room
Spend the day at religious sites and end at the Asahi altar, on the 22nd floor of the golden-tinged Asahi Super Dry Building. Directly adjacent to the infamous Flamme d'Or sculpture (aka 'The Golden Turd') on the east bank of the Sumida River, the venue itself isn't noteworthy, but serves up Asahi brews and a spectacular view, especially at sunset.
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Kamiya Bar
Once popular with the Tokyo literati, this smoky old place hasn't changed much since it was founded in 1880. The 1st floor is a beer hall where you pay for drinks as you enter. Its best-known offering is the brandy-based cocktail denki-bran. The restaurants upstairs serve Japanese and Western food, but that's not the reason to come here.
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Setagaya Public Theatre
The two spaces in this excellent venue, the Public Theatre and Theatre Tram, can seat more than 800. It has achieved popular success based on performances including Shakespeare, Oscar Wilde, nō, kyōgen, and a mixture of jazz and comedy shows, some directed at children. It also offers a good mix of foreign contemporary drama.
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Agave
Rawhide chairs, cruzas de rosas (crosses decorated with roses) and tequila shots for the willing make Agave a good place for a long night in search of the sacred worm. Luckily, this gem in the jungle that is Roppongi is more about savouring the subtleties of its 400-plus varieties of tequila rather than tossing back shots of Cuervo.
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Pink Cow
With its animal-print decor, rotating display of local artwork and terrific all-you-can-eat buffet (¥2625) every Friday and Saturday, the Pink Cow is a funky, friendly place to hang out. Also host to stitch-and-bitch evenings, writers’ salons and indie film screenings, it’s a good bet if you seek some artistic stimulation.
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Sweet Basil 139
Sweet Basil has a large, lovely space that draws big-name domestic and international jazz acts. Performances range the gamut of the genre; check the calendar on the website for the current line-up. This classy joint is a good place to have an Italian dinner before a show; call for reservations between 11:00 and 20:00 Monday to Saturday.
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Kokuritsu Gekijō
The prestigious National Theatre is Japan’s premier venue for its traditional performing arts. Performances include kabuki, gagaku court music and bunraku puppetry. Earphones with English translation are available for rent (¥650 plus ¥1000 deposit). Check the website for performance schedules.
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Doma Doma
This easy-to-find izakaya along Jingū-dōri serves a younger crowd than the salarymen boozing it up at its Shinjuku counterparts. Order a pitcher of nama biiru (draft beer) and a few Japanese dishes off the picture menu, but beware of the more fusion-style offerings that are less hit and more miss.
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