Entertainment in Tokyo
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Ageha
This gigantic waterside club rivals any you’d find in LA or Ibiza. Mostly international DJs appear here, with Japanese DJs filling out the mix. Counterbalancing the thumping dance floors are lounge spaces and a little pool area. Free buses run to the club every half-hour from the east side of Shibuya Station on Roppongi-dōri; bring photo ID.
reviewed
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Bobby's Bar
One of Tokyo's longest-standing and best-known gaijin bars, perfect for those in need of a warm barstool, a dartboard and reasonably priced drinks (from around ¥500). The crowd here is always international - a good mix of long-time expats and travellers.
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Jazz Spot Intro
It’s a good sign when a little club allows a quarter of its floor space to be monopolised by a sexy grand piano. It also bodes well when the place is staffed by musicians who love to talk shop all night. At Jazz Spot Intro, all the omens are favourable.
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Nekobukuro
For Tokyoites who may not have the time or space to keep their own pets, Nekobukuro provides a venue for short-term cuddling with surrogate cats. Creep up to the 8th floor of the Ikebukuro branch of Tōkyū Hands department store to get in on the kitten action.
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Bar Plastic Model
Bar Plastic Model is one of the new joints run by a younger generation in venerable Golden Gai, with an ’80s soundtrack and decorated with retro knick-knacks.
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Ryōgoku Kokugikan
Travellers who visit Tokyo in January, May or September should not miss the opportunity to attend a Grand Tournament at Tokyo's Kokugikan. Ringside tickets cost ¥14,300, boxes cost between ¥9200 and ¥11,300 per person, and arena tickets will set you back between ¥2100 and ¥8200. Tickets can be purchased up to a month prior to the tournament, or you can simply turn up on the day (you'll have to arrive very early, say 6am, to snag seats during the last days of a tournament). If you need additional assistance booking tickets, particularly from abroad, check out www.buysumotickets.com; it charges a ¥1200 service fee per ticket purchased.
During the rest of the year, you…
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Kabuki-Za (Kabuki Theatre)
Performances and times vary from month to month at Kabuki-za so check with the TIC (Tourist Information Center; ) or the theatre for programme information. Be sure to rent a headset for blow-by-blow explanations in English, and pick up a bentō downstairs. A full kabuki performance comprises three or four acts (usually from different plays) over an afternoon or an evening (typically 11:00 to 15:30 or 16:30 to 21:00), with long intervals between the acts.
If four-plus hours sounds too long, you can purchase last-minute tickets for a single act, although seats are only on the highest balcony. Since some acts tend to be more popular than others, inquire ahead as to which to…
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Shimbashi Embujō Theatre
While Ginza’s storied Kabuki-za Theatre is being rebuilt until 2013, corporate owner Shōchiku will mainly stage the plays at its Embujō Theatre, which also puts on super kabuki, a rocking subgenre that incorporates modern stagecraft. A full performance of traditional kabuki comprises three or four acts (usually from different plays) over an afternoon or an evening (typically 11am to 3.30pm or 4.30pm to 9pm), with long intervals between the acts. If four-plus hours sounds too long, you can usually purchase last-minute tickets for a single act. Since some acts tend to be more popular than others, enquire ahead as to which to catch, and arrive well in advance.
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Pasela
Pasela boasts decor that is a cut above the other yodelling parlours, as well as six floors of karaoke rooms including swanky VIP suites. There's an extensive selection of Western songs, wine and sweets on the menu, and a decent Mexican bar-restaurant in the basement. From 5pm to 7pm it's karaoke happy hour – ¥400, including one drink.
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Session House
Dance aficionados consider Session House one of the best traditional, folk and modern dance spaces in the city. The theatre seats only 100 people, ensuring an intimate and memorable performance. Exit right from Kagurazaka Station, make a right into the first narrow alley, and turn left where it dead-ends. Session House will be a few metres on your right.
reviewed
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Tokyo Philharmonic Orchestra
Founded in Nagoya in 1911, the Tokyo Philharmonic is Japan's oldest and largest orchestra with 166 members. Featuring distinguished foreign soloists and conductors and a perennial presence on the NHK TV New Year's special, the Philharmonic is based at Tokyo Opera City in Shinjuku but also performs at Suntory Hall in the Ark Hills complex in Akasaka ( M052C) and at Bunkamura Orchard Hall (M04FD) in Shibuya.
reviewed
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Za Kōenji
Za Kōenji stages Japanese and foreign contemporary plays, dance, music and storytelling events. Designed by Itō Toyō, this architecturally splendid venue in western Tokyo opened in May 2009. It houses three theatres, a literature archive and the very sleek cafe Henri Fabre. A rehearsal hall here is set aside for the neighbourhood’s summer Awa Ōdori dance parade.
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Sasashū
Sasashū is a highly respected sake specialist maintaining a dignified old facade amid west Ikebukuro's strip joints. If you lack Japanese-language ability, ask for omakase (chef's choice).
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Beer Bar Bitter
This mellow Euro-bar in Kagurazaka has a super selection of Belgian beers from around ¥900, as well as snacks such as Iberico ham (¥1300). Going up Kagurazaka hill, look for the fourth lane on your right, called Honda-yokochō ( 本多横町 ). Go down it until you see a pale, three-story building on your right with a red yakitori lantern hanging outside. Take the stairs on the right.
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Kokuritsu Nō-gakudō
The National Nō Theatre stages its own productions (for which written English synopses are provided), but also hosts privately sponsored performances of nō (stylised dance-drama). To get there, exit Sendagaya Station with Shinjuku to your left and follow the road that hugs the railway tracks. The theatre is on the left.
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National Nō Theatre
The National Nō Theatre stages its own nō (classical Japanese musical dramas) performances on weekends only, for which it provides printed English synopses, but it also hosts privately-sponsored performances. Exit Sendagaya Station in the direction of Shinjuku on the left and follow the road that hugs the railway tracks; the theatre will be on the left.
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Sake Plaza
Sake Plaza isn’t a bar, but who cares when you can get five thimbles of regionally brewed sake for only ¥525. This showroom and tasting space is a perfect way to start the night while learning about the national drink. It’s on the ground floor of the Japan Sake Brewers Association Building ( 日本酒造会館 ).
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Green Plaza Ladies Sauna
Women also have a place to wash and crash in Kabukichō. This central, 24-hour sentō (public bath) and spa for women is a calming refuge, where you can get a massage after you bathe, have a bite to eat, and then blissfully snooze away until the morning trains begin running. Best of all, there's a rooftop rotemburo (outdoor bath).
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Eggman
Follow the spiral staircase to the basement to hear blues, rock or light jazz musicians get down low. Most acts are local and of the lighter, sweeter variety. Show up to see whether tickets aren’t completely sold out on a given night, and be sure to take a quick listen at the door to sample before committing. Most shows commence at around 7pm.
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Dentsū Shiki Theatre Umi
Located in the Shio-Site complex beside the headquarters of the Dentsū advertising group, Shiki Theatre Sea stages Japanese versions of hit Western works such as Mamma Mia! and Aida. Other Shiki theatres near Takeshiba station on the Yurikamome monorail stage shows such as The Lion King. See the website for details.
reviewed
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Abbey Road
Abbey Road is, appropriately, the home of the Parrots, who reproduce a variety of Beatles hits with uncanny accuracy. They perform several nights a week – check the website for their schedule and set list. Advance bookings are recommended.
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Asahi Sky Room
Spend the day at religious sites and end at the Asahi altar, on the 22nd floor of the golden-tinged Asahi Super Dry Building. Directly adjacent to the infamous Flamme d'Or sculpture (aka 'The Golden Turd') on the east bank of the Sumida River, the venue itself isn't noteworthy, but serves up Asahi brews and a spectacular view, especially at sunset.
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Kamiya Bar
Kamiya holds the title of Tokyo's oldest Western-style bar, and it remains perennially popular among locals despite the rather faded atmosphere, which feels somewhat like an outdated hotel lobby.
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Setagaya Public Theatre
The two spaces in this excellent venue, the Public Theatre and Theatre Tram, can seat more than 800. It has achieved popular success based on performances including Shakespeare, Oscar Wilde, nō, kyōgen, and a mixture of jazz and comedy shows, some directed at children. It also offers a good mix of foreign contemporary drama.
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Agave
This amiable spot, all dolled up in warm Mexican hues and design, is more about savouring the subtleties of its 400-plus types of tequila rather than tossing back shots of Cuervo. Walking west from Roppongi Crossing, find it on the small alley on the north side of the street.
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