Restaurants in South Of Tokyo
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Snack Stalls
Snackers will love Komachi-dōri. Kamakura Ichibanya (22-6156; Komachi-dōri) specialises in sembei (rice crackers); watch staff grilling them in the window or buy some 100 packaged varieties including curry, garlic, mentaiko (spicy cod roe) or uni (sea urchin).
Imo no Kichikan (25-6038) is famous for soft-serve sweet-potato ice cream (look for the giant plastic cone with lavender-hued ice cream), while Toshimaya (25-0505) sells Kamakura's omiyage (souvenir) of record, hato sabure, large butter cookies in the shape of a dove (¥84 each or from ¥451 for five). For picnic foods for hiking or beaching, Kinokuniya (25-1911; ;09:30-20:00) is a ritzy supermarket out Kamakura st…
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Shin-Yokohama Rāmen Hakubutskan
In 1994, Shin-Yokohama Rāmen Hakubutskan opened, inaugurating the age of the food theme park throughout Japan. This museum of rāmen continues to show the history and culture of these Chinese-style noodles about which it's fair to say Japan is bonkers. Downstairs, nine rāmen restaurants from around the country were hand-picked to sell their wares in a replica of a 1958 Shitamachi (downtown district).
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Kawagoe-ya
Cosy and country-style, specializing in a range of Japanese foods like soba and donburi (rice with assorted toppings). The mini-maguro-don set (¥1365) comes with soba and more. It's outside Kamakura Station's east exit, in the basement below McDonald's. Picture menu and plastic models available.
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Yamate Jyuban-kan
Overlooking the Foreigners' Cemetery in Yamate, this French restaurant serves consistently good cuisine in a building like a mansion from the American south. A casual café occupies the 1st floor, while upstairs is the classic restaurant, dishing out longstanding favourites like the Kaika steak set. Reservations recommended.
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Horetaro
Okonomiyaki and monjayaki (Osaka and Tokyo style savoury pancakes respectively) are the thing here, along with fried rice and other dishes you grill yourself on a teppan (steel plate) at the table. All-you-can-eat-and-drink sets including alcoholic drinks are ¥3150 for 2½ hours.
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Yokohama Curry Museum
Japan is obsessed with curry rice, a large bowl filled with rice on one side and meat or vegetables in curry sauce on the other. The Yokohama Curry Museum offers nine styles of curry including Indian, Okinawan and, er, French. The cocktail bar here serves a 'currytini'. We dare you.
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Heichinrō Honten
Neck and neck with Manchinrō, the equally elegant Heichinrō is another Cantonese favourite. Separate dining rooms for main dishes and yum cha (¥420 to ¥1020), including ebi no kingyo (shrimp in the shape of goldfish) and popular noodle soups.
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Komachi-Ichiba
Two sister restaurants make up the 'Komachi market', upstairs from Kamakura station. Fūrin is a smart izakaya (Japanese pub/eatery) specialising in fish and seafood like sashimi and grills, while Tenten offers tempura. Expect the sake and spirits to flow at night.
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Manchinrō Honten
This elegant Cantonese restaurant is one of Chinatown's oldest (1892) and most respected, with chefs from Hong Kong. Look for the stone lions out the front. The newer annexe around the corner, Manchinrō Tenshinpo, specialises in yum cha (dim sum; dishes/courses from ¥725/3300).
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Milk Hall
This local cafe-scene landmark is also an antiques shop and, by evening, a moody bar. Live jazz plays some nights. Head two blocks down Komachi-dōri, take a left and then another left down the first alley; the door has an English sign.
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Chaya-Kado
Serving up hot, hearty soup, this humble soba spot is conveniently located on the route from Kita-Kamakura to Kamakura, just before you reach Kenchō-ji. The restaurant may close without notice, and during the low season, may only open for lunch.
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Kamakura Ichibanya
Specialises in senbei (rice crackers); watch staff grilling them in the window or buy some 50 packaged varieties, including curry, garlic, mentaiko (spicy cod roe) or uni (sea urchin); look for the baskets on the corner.
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Baikōtei
This weathered classic with red-velour seating is famed for its hayashi rice (hashed beef in demi-glace sauce), and a mean katsu-don (pork cutlet). Look for the window that announces Baikō Emmies.
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Seedless Bar
Roll up to this 2nd-floor surfers’ bar facing Yuigahama beach along Route 134 and munch on pizzas, tacos and sandwiches. It’s a just short walk from Yuigahama Station on the Enoden Line.
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Toshimaya
Toshimaya sells Kamakura's omiyage (souvenir) of record, hato sabure, large butter cookies in the shape of a dove (¥84 each or from ¥451 for five).
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Chano-ma
Dine on sushi rolls, salads and croquettes under tall ceilings, while serious club beats play. The most coveted seats are on mattresses, arranged around the open kitchen.
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Caraway
This Japanese-style curry shop has an old-world charm and some unusual preparations. Go for the classic beef curry, or spring for chicken curry with Edam cheese.
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Snack Stands
The station area bursts with restaurants and snack stands. The streets around Komachi-dōri and Wakamiya-ōji are happy hunting grounds.
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Bowls Donburi Café
The humble donburi (rice bowl) gets a hip, healthy remake here, with toppings such as seared tuna and avocado. You get a discount if you discover the word atari at the bottom of the bowl. There's an English sign over the doors.
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Imo-no-kichikan
Famous for soft-serve sweet-potato ice cream (¥295). Look for the giant plastic cone with lavender-hued ice cream.
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Sông Bé Cafe
This mellow day-to-evening joint near the Hotel New Kamakura serves up dishes like pho and green curry, with vegies sourced from the local farmers market. Look for the terrace out the front and flyers for local events inside.
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Ryūsen
You can't miss friendly old Mr Ma sitting outside his small Shanghai-style eatery with a red awning, as he has done for years. The walls outside and inside are literally wallpapered with photos of tasty-looking dishes.
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Matsubara-an
This upscale soba restaurant in a former residence captures the feel of early-20th-century Kamakura, when the area was a fashionable summertime retreat. There's no English menu, but you can't go wrong with the tempura seiro soba (al dente noodles served cold) or the set lunch (ranchi kōsu). From Yuiga-hama Station (on the Enoden line) head towards the beach and then take the first right. Look for the blue sign; the entrance is just to the left, with white door curtains.
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Magokoro
With eclectic fare like hemp-seed curry and additive-free sake, this organic joint is a favourite with the local green crowd. From Hase Station, walk to the beach and turn left onto the coastal road; you'll see the 2nd-floor picture windows on your left.
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Bills
This popular new outpost from Australian celebrity chef Bill Granger proves that Yokohama still has an appetite for foreign flavours. There's a glass terrace and a long line for Sunday brunch.
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