Things to do in Kamakura
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Daibutsu Hiking Course
This 3km wooded trail connects Kita- Kamakura with the Daibutsu in Hase (allow about 1½ hours). The path begins at the steps just up the lane from pretty Jōchi-ji, a few minutes from Tōkei-ji. Along the course you'll pass Zeniarai-benten, one of Kamakura's most alluring Shintō shrines. A cave-like entrance leads to a clearing where visitors come to bathe their money in natural springs, with the hope of bringing financial success. From here, continue down the paved road, turning right at the first intersection, walking along a path lined with cryptomeria and ascending through a succession of torii to Sasuke-inari-jinja before meeting up with the Daibutsu path once agai…
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Kamakura Daibutsu
The Kamakura Daibutsu is at Kōtoku-in temple. Completed in 1252, it is Japan's second-largest Buddha image and Kamakura's most famous sight. It was once housed in a huge hall, today the statue sits in the open, the hall having been washed away by a tsunami in 1495. Cast in bronze and weighing close to 850 tonnes, the statue is 11.4m tall.
Its construction is said to have been inspired by Yoritomo's visit to Nara (where Japan's biggest Daibutsu holds court) after the Minamoto clan's victory over the rival Taira clan. Even though Kamakura's Daibutsu doesn't quite match Nara's in stature, it is commonly agreed that it is artistically superior.
The Buddha itself is the Amida …
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Snack Stalls
Snackers will love Komachi-dōri. Kamakura Ichibanya (22-6156; Komachi-dōri) specialises in sembei (rice crackers); watch staff grilling them in the window or buy some 100 packaged varieties including curry, garlic, mentaiko (spicy cod roe) or uni (sea urchin).
Imo no Kichikan (25-6038) is famous for soft-serve sweet-potato ice cream (look for the giant plastic cone with lavender-hued ice cream), while Toshimaya (25-0505) sells Kamakura's omiyage (souvenir) of record, hato sabure, large butter cookies in the shape of a dove (¥84 each or from ¥451 for five). For picnic foods for hiking or beaching, Kinokuniya (25-1911; ;09:30-20:00) is a ritzy supermarket out Kamakura st…
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Daibutsu
Kamakura's most iconic sight, an 11.4m bronze statue of Amida Buddha (amitābha in Sanskrit), is in Kōtoku-in, a Jōdo sect temple. Completed in 1252, it's said to have been inspired by Yoritomo's visit to Nara (where Japan's biggest Daibutsu holds court) after the Minamoto clan's victory over the Taira clan. Once housed in a huge hall, today the statue sits in the open, the hall having been washed away by a tsunami in 1495. For an extra ¥20, you can duck inside to see how the sculptors pieced the 850-tonne statue together.
Buses from stops 1 and 6 in front of Kamakura Station run to the Daibutsu-mae stop. Alternatively, take the Enoden Enoshima line to Hase Station and …
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Hase-dera
About 10 minutes' walk from the Daibutsu, Hase-dera (Jōdo sect) is one of the most popular temples in the Kantō region. The focal point of the temple's main hall is a 9m-high carved wooden jūichimen (11-faced) Kannon statue. Kannon (avalokiteshvara in Sanskrit) is the bodhisattva of infinite compassion and, along with Jizō, is one of Japan's most popular Buddhist deities. According to legend, the temple dates back to AD 736, when the statue is said to have washed up on the shore near Kamakura.
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Ennō-Ji
Ennō-ji is distinguished by its statues depicting the judges of hell. According to the Juo concept of Taoism, which was introduced to Japan from China during the Heian period (794–1185), these 10 judges decide the fate of souls, who, being neither truly good nor truly evil, must be assigned to spend eternity in either heaven or hell. Presiding over them is Emma (Yama), a Hindu deity known as the gruesome king of the infernal regions.
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Sugimoto-dera
This small temple, founded in AD 734, is reputed to be the oldest in Kamakura. The ferocious-looking guardian deities and statues of Kannon are its main draw. Take a bus from stop 5 at Kamakura Station to the Sugimoto Kannon bus stop (¥190, 10 minutes).
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Egaraten-Jinja
Students come to Egaraten-jinja to pray for academic success. Like other Tenjin shrines, Egara is dedicated to the memory of Michizane Sugawara, a Kyoto scholar of noble birth who was born in the middle of the 9th century. Students write their aspirations on ema (small votive plaques), which are then hung to the right of the shrine. Buses taken from stop 6 in front of Kamakura Station run out to Egara Tenjinja; get off at Tenjin-mae.
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Jōchi-Ji
Founded in 1283 by Hojo Morotoki, Jōchi-ji is the fourth of Kamakura’s five great Zen temples. The main gate’s bell on the 2nd floor of the belltower was cast in 1340. Nearby is Kanro-no-ni, one of Kamakura’s 10 revered wells. The interest in this muddy little pond, whose name translates to ‘Sweet Water’, is mostly historical, but photographers still swarm its edges looking for the perfect shot.
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Tsurugaoka Hachiman-gū
Kamakura's most important shrine is, naturally, dedicated to Hachiman, the god of war. Minamoto Yoritomo himself ordered its construction in 1191 and designed the pine-flanked central promenade that leads to the coast. The sprawling grounds are ripe with historical symbolism: the Gempei Pond, bisected by bridges, is said to depict the rift between the Minamoto (Genji) and Taira (Heike) clans. Behind the pond is the Kamakura Museum, housing remarkable Buddhist sculptures from the 12th to 16th centuries.
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Tōkei-ji
Across the railway tracks from Engaku-ji, Tōkei-ji is famed as having served as a women's refuge. A woman could be officially recognised as divorced after three years as a nun in the temple precincts. Today, there are no nuns; the grave of the last abbess can be found in the cemetery, shrouded by cypress trees.
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Kenchō-ji
Established in 1253, Kencho-ji is Japan's oldest Zen monastery and is still active today. It once comprised seven buildings and 49 subtemples, most of which were destroyed in the fires of the 14th and 15th centuries. However, the 17th and 18th centuries saw its restoration, and you can still get a sense of its splendour. The central Butsuden (Buddha hall) was brought piece by piece from Tokyo in 1647. Its Jizō Bosatsu statue, unusual for a Zen temple, reflects the valley's ancient function as an execution ground – Jizō consoles lost souls. Other highlights include a bell cast in 1253 and the juniper grove, believed to have sprouted from seeds brought from China by Kenchō-…
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Ten-en Hiking Course
From Zuisen-ji you can access this trail, which winds through the hills for two hours before coming out at Kenchō-ji. From Kenchō-ji, walk around the Hojo (Main Hall) and up the steps to the trail.
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Kawagoe-ya
Cosy and country-style, specializing in a range of Japanese foods like soba and donburi (rice with assorted toppings). The mini-maguro-don set (¥1365) comes with soba and more. It's outside Kamakura Station's east exit, in the basement below McDonald's. Picture menu and plastic models available.
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Hōkoku-ji
Down the road from Sugimoto-dera, on the right-hand side, is this Rinzai Zen temple with quiet, landscaped gardens where you can relax under a red parasol with a cup of Japanese tea.
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Horetaro
Okonomiyaki and monjayaki (Osaka and Tokyo style savoury pancakes respectively) are the thing here, along with fried rice and other dishes you grill yourself on a teppan (steel plate) at the table. All-you-can-eat-and-drink sets including alcoholic drinks are ¥3150 for 2½ hours.
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Engaku-ji
Engaku-ji, one of the five major Rinzai Zen temples in Kamakura, is on the left as you exit Kita-Kamakura Station. It was founded in 1282, allegedly as a place where Zen monks might pray for soldiers who lost their lives defending Japan against Kublai Khan. Engaku-ji remains an important temple, and a number of notable priests have trained here. All of the temple structures have been rebuilt over the centuries; the Shariden, a Song-style reliquary, is the oldest structure, last rebuilt in the 16th century. At the top of the long flight of stairs is the Engaku-ji bell, the largest bell in Kamakura, cast in 1301.
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Kamakura National Treasure Museum
The Kamakura National Treasure Museum displays an excellent collection of Kamakura art. Some are the typically peaceful jizō, although the collection also houses a number of compelling sculptures that are energetic and carnal, and sometimes gruesome.
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Komachi-Ichiba
Two sister restaurants make up the 'Komachi market', upstairs from Kamakura station. Fūrin is a smart izakaya (Japanese pub/eatery) specialising in fish and seafood like sashimi and grills, while Tenten offers tempura. Expect the sake and spirits to flow at night.
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Milk Hall
This local cafe-scene landmark is also an antiques shop and, by evening, a moody bar. Live jazz plays some nights. Head two blocks down Komachi-dōri, take a left and then another left down the first alley; the door has an English sign.
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Chaya-Kado
Serving up hot, hearty soup, this humble soba spot is conveniently located on the route from Kita-Kamakura to Kamakura, just before you reach Kenchō-ji. The restaurant may close without notice, and during the low season, may only open for lunch.
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Kamakura Ichibanya
Specialises in senbei (rice crackers); watch staff grilling them in the window or buy some 50 packaged varieties, including curry, garlic, mentaiko (spicy cod roe) or uni (sea urchin); look for the baskets on the corner.
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Seedless Bar
Roll up to this 2nd-floor surfers’ bar facing Yuigahama beach along Route 134 and munch on pizzas, tacos and sandwiches. It’s a just short walk from Yuigahama Station on the Enoden Line.
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Zuisen-ji
The grounds of this secluded Zen temple make for a pleasant stroll and include gardens laid out by Musō Soseki, the temple's esteemed founder. To get here, take the bus from stop 4 at Kamakura Station and get off at Ōtōnomiya (¥190, 10 minutes); turn right where the bus turns left in front of Kamakura-gū, take the next left and keep following the road for 10 or 15 minutes.
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Toshimaya
Toshimaya sells Kamakura's omiyage (souvenir) of record, hato sabure, large butter cookies in the shape of a dove (¥84 each or from ¥451 for five).
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