Market sights in Japan
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A
Tsukiji Central Fish Market
If it lives in the sea, it's probably for sale in the Central Fish Market, where acres and acres of fish and fish products pass hands in a lively, almost chaotic atmosphere. Everything is allotted its own area, and a quick scan of the loading docks will reveal mountains of octopus, rows of giant tuna, endless varieties of shellfish and tanks upon tanks of live exotic fish.
About 2246 tonnes of fish, worth over 1.8 billion yen (US$15.5 million), are sold here daily; that's 615,409 tonnes of fish worth some US$4.25 billion a year. It's not unheard of for a single tuna to fetch an incredible around ¥20 million!
The auctions are not officially open to the general public, but …
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B
Nishiki Market
If you are interested in seeing all the really weird and wonderful foods that go into Kyoto cuisine, wander through Nishiki Market. It's in the centre of town, one block north of (and parallel to) Shijō-dōri, running west off Teramachi Shopping arcade and ending shortly before Daimaru department store. This market is a great place to visit on a rainy day or if you need a break from temple-hopping. The variety of foods on display is staggering, and the frequent cries of Irasshaimase! (Welcome!) are heart-warming.
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Karato Ichiba Fish Markets
A highlight of any trip to Shimonoseki is an early rise and a visit to the Karato Ichiba fish markets. The interesting stuff is on show from 04:00 to 08:00, so if you like to sleep in, forget it. The markets kick off at 02:00 for those in the industry, but the public is welcome from 04:00 - the earlier you get there the better. It's a great opportunity to try sashimi for breakfast or lunch, and the fish doesn't get any fresher - a fair bit will still be moving.
People-watching is almost as much fun as goggling at the many different sea creatures.
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C
Hanazono-Jinja (Hanazono Shrine)
During the day merchants from nearby Kabukichō come to this Shintō shrine to pray for the solvency of their business ventures, but at night the spotlights come on, legions of high-school kids and salarymen show up, and action spills over from nearby Golden Gai and from further-away Yasukuni-dōri. On Sunday the grounds become a marketplace, where you’ll find bargains on knick-knacks and, possibly, some antiques.
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D
Ōmichō Market
A warren of several hundred shops and restaurants, many of which specialise in seafood, this market bustles all day and is a great place for a break from sightseeing and to watch everyday people in action. Ōmichō functions like the outer market of Tokyo's Tsukiji Fish Market, but thanks to a recent makeover it's a lot more orderly and polished. It's between Katamachi district and Kanazawa Station. The nearest bus stop is Musashi-ga-tsuji.
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E
Sunday Market
Our favourite street market in Shikoku, 300 years old, takes place every Sunday along the main road leading to the castle. Colourful stalls sell fresh produce, tonics and tinctures, knives, flowers, garden stones and wooden antiques.
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Morning Markets
Asa-ichi (morning markets) take place every morning from 7am to noon, starting an hour earlier from April to October. The Jinya-mae Morning Market (陣屋前朝市) is in front of Takayama-jinya; the Miya-gawa Morning Market (宮川朝市) is larger, situated along the east bank of the Miya-gawa, between Kaji-bashi and Yayoi-bashi. The markets provide a pleasant way to start the day, with a stroll past rugged farm-folk at their vegetable stands and stalls selling crafts of wood or fabric, pickles, souvenirs and that all-important steaming cuppa joe (or beer or sake for the hearty).
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F
Karato Ichiba
A highlight of a trip to Shimonoseki is an early-morning visit to the Karato fish market. It's a great opportunity to try sashimi for breakfast or lunch, and the fish doesn't get any fresher – a fair bit of it will still be moving. Note that the market is occasionally closed on Wednesday.
Buses to Karato (¥190) leave from outside the station, the earliest at 6.27am, and take about seven minutes.
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Dōguya-suji Arcade
If you desperately need a tako-yaki (octopus ball) fryer, a red lantern to hang outside your shop or plastic food models to lure the customers in, this shopping arcade is the place to go. You'll also find endless knives, pots, pans and just about anything else that's even remotely related to the preparation and consumption of food.
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G
Daichi Makishi Kōsetsu Ichiba
Our favourite stop in the arcade area is the covered food market just off Ichibahon-dōri, about 200m south of Kokusai-dōri. The colourful variety of fish and produce on offer here is amazing, and don't miss the wonderful local restaurants upstairs. Keep in mind, however, that this is a working market, so please don't get in the way of shopkeepers and consider buying something as a souvenir.
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