Things to do in Shikoku
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Dōgo Onsen Honkan
The main building at Dōgo Onsen, Dōgo Onsen Honkan, was constructed in 1894, and designated as an important cultural site in 1994. The three-storey, castle-style building incorporates traditional design elements, and is crowned with a statue of a white heron in commemoration of its legendary origins.
Although countless famous people have passed through its doors, Dōgo Onsen Honkan rose to popularity following its inclusion in the famous 1906 novel Botchan, which was authored by Sōseki Natsume, the greatest literary figure in Japan's modern age. Even if you're well-versed in the ins and outs of onsen culture, Dōgo can be a bit confusing as there are two separate baths…
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Matsuyama-jō
Perched on top of Mt Katsuyama in the centre of town, the castle dominates the city, as it has for centuries. Matsuyama-jō is one of Japan's finest surviving castles, and one of the very few with anything interesting to look at inside: there are excellent English-language displays.
A ropeway (one way/return ¥260/500) is on hand to whisk you up the hill, though there is a pleasant pathway if you prefer to walk. It's worth walking down via the back slopes of the castle and stopping off at Ninomaru Shiseki Tei-enin the outer citadel of the fort, consisting of old gardens and modern water features.
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Kōchi-jō
Kōchi-jō is one of just a dozen castles in Japan to have survived with its original tenshu-kaku (keep) intact. The castle was originally built during the first decade of the 17th century by Yamanouchi Katsutoyo, who was appointed daimyō by Tokugawa Ieyasu after he fought on the victorious Tokugawa side in the Battle of Sekigahara in 1600. A major fire destroyed much of the original structure in 1727, and the castle was largely rebuilt between 1748 and 1753.
The castle was the product of an age of peace – it never came under attack, and for the remainder of the Tokugawa period it was more like a stately home than a military fortress.
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Sakamoto Ryōma Memorial Museum
The Sakamoto Ryōma Memorial Museum tells the life story of this local hero in miniature dioramas.
Although it was the progressive samurai class of Kagoshima and Hagi that played a major part in the dramatic events of the Meiji Restoration, the citizens of Kōchi claim it was their hometown hero Sakamoto who brought the two sides together. His assassination in Kyoto in 1867 at the age of 32 cemented his romantic yet tragic image, and he appears - looking distinctly sour - on countless postcards and other tourist memorabilia in Kōchi.
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Tokugetsurō
Open since 1870, this is the place to come to if you have a fat wallet and want to try immaculately presented Tosa-ryōri (local cuisine). Unfortunately, this can be a difficult place to visit if you don't read Japanese as the kanji-heavy menu changes daily, though you can always choose which setto-cossu (set course) you'd like based on the price. It's in a traditional building directly across from the Dentetsu Taminaru-biru Mae tram stop.
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Ishite-ji
East of Dōgo Onsen is Ishite-ji , 51st of the 88 Temples, and one of the largest and most impressive in the circuit. Ishite means 'stone hand' and comes from a legend associated with Kōbō Daishi. A statue of Kōbō Daishi overlooks the temple from the hillside.
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Dōgo Bakushukan
The Japanese love their mass produced lagers, though beer drinkers with a more discerning palette know that you can't beat Dōgo Bakushukan's award-winning korushu (kolsch; around ¥450). Alternate sips of sweet nectar with slivers of raw fish from the house sashimi setto (sashimi set) and you've got yourself a meal. Directly across from Dōgo Onsen, this spot is easily recognisable by the huge plastic beer mug outside.
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Dōgo Onsen
According to legend, Dōgo Onsen was discovered during the ancient age of gods when a white heron was found healing itself in the spring. Since then, Dōgo has featured prominently in a number of literary classics, and garnered a reputation for the curative properties of its waters. The mono-alkaline spring contains sulphur, and is believed to be particularly effective at treating rheumatism, neuralgia and hysteria.
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Kushihide Tori-ryōri-honten
Located down a side street adjacent to the Ōkaidō Arcade (look for the chicken on the sign) is this speciality restaurant where you can feast on fresh and tasty free-range Ehime chicken dishes. Although there aren't any plastic models, the speciality of the house is the tori sashimi (raw chicken). Check your hesitations at the door and dig in - it's delicious!
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Hakobe
This is one of the few remaining cook-it-yourself okinomiyaki joints in Kōchi (¥630) serving cheap and cheerful Japanese pancakes, with good English spoken by the waiters. The 'mix' of ika (squid) and ebi and tori (chicken) is heavenly. Other alternatives include buta (pork) and yasai (vegetables). It's slap bang in the heart of the arcade.
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Goshiki Sōmen Morikawa
Next to the central post office is this elegant Matsuyama institution, which specialises in goshiki sōmen (thin noodles in five different colours). You'll recognise it by the piles of colourful noodles in the window waiting to be snapped up and taken home as souvenirs. Set meals are around ¥1500; there is a picture menu.
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Dōgo-kōen
A small park containing the site of Yuzuki-jō, the former residence of the Kōno clan that ruled Iyo province in feudal times. Articles unearthed during recent excavations are on display in Yuzuki-jō Museum, near the west entrance of the park.
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Dish & Bar After Glow
A few blocks east of the Ōkaidō tram stop (look for the English sign) is this excellent bistro, which boasts more than 200 varieties of wine from all over the world. Although it's tempting to choose some of the more familiar names, you can't go wrong with a chilled white from Yamanashi-ken.
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Hirome Ichiba
Some hundred or so mini restaurants specialising in everything from gomoku rāmen (seafood noodles) to tacoyaki (octopus balls); this is the hub of Kōchi's cheap eats scene. On weekends, it positively heaves with young people drinking hard and happy. It's at the end of the main arcade, just before the castle.
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Kōchi Prefectural Makino Botanical Gardens
On the south side of Godaisan-kōen east of the city centre are the Kōchi Prefectural Makino Botanical Gardens, which features more than 3000 different plant species. Frequent buses from the Harimaya-bashi bus terminal run directly to Godaisan (around ¥150, 10 minutes).
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Viva
On the western edge of Chuō-kōen (look for the English sign) is this trendy dining bar, which has over 100 cocktails and beers on offer from all over the world. On weekends, Viva really gets kicking when the tables are pushed to the walls and the music is turned up.
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Street Market
If you're in Kōchi on a Sunday, don't miss the colourful Street Market along the road leading to the castle. The market, which has been going for some 300 years, has everything from fruit, vegetables and goldfish to antiques, knives and large garden stones.
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Tosa-no-izakaya Ippon-tsuri
In the middle of the Obiyamachi shopping arcade (look for the red lanterns outside), this popular izakaya features sake from each of the prefecture's 19 sake producers - make sure you know how to find your way home if you intend to try all of them.
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Jett Rockbar
Needless to say, this basement bar specialises in rock 'n' roll, and there's a good chance that you can catch live music here on the weekends. Located next to the Washington Hotel, this place is easy to spot - just look for the English sign.
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Sakamoto Ryōma Statue
In addition to the Sakamoto Ryōma Memorial Museum, there is also an impressive statue of Sakamoto Ryōma by Katsura-hama beach. Frequent buses run from Kōchi station to Katsura-hama (around ¥610, 30 minutes).
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Ninomaru Shiseki Tei-en
Walk down the back slopes of the castle hill (Katsuyama) to stroll around the Ninomaru Shiseki Tei-en gardens, which were built in the outer citadel of the castle, and consist of various pools, gardens, rockeries and waterfalls.
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Chikurin-ji (Temple 31)
At the top of the hill in Godaisan-kōen is Chikurin-ji, Temple 31 on the 88 Sacred Temple Circuit, which has pleasant gardens, a five-storey pagoda and a small Treasure House.
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Isaniwa-jinja
Designated a National Treasure, this shrine was modelled on Kyoto's Iwashimizu-Hachimangū and was built in 1667. It's located a short walk east of Dōgo Onsen.
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Yuzuki-jō Museum
Excavations have revealed various relics that are on display of the Yuzuki-jō castle, the former residence of the Kōno clan that oversaw Iyo province in feudal times.
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Shiki Memorial Museum
Just south of Matsuyama-shi Station, in the temple grounds of Shōjūzen-ji. Part of the house where famous haiku poet Shiki Masaoka (1867–1902) spent the first 17 years of his life.
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