Sights in Shikoku
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Dōgo Onsen Honkan
The main building at Dōgo Onsen, Dōgo Onsen Honkan, was constructed in 1894, and designated as an important cultural site in 1994. The three-storey, castle-style building incorporates traditional design elements, and is crowned with a statue of a white heron in commemoration of its legendary origins.
Although countless famous people have passed through its doors, Dōgo Onsen Honkan rose to popularity following its inclusion in the famous 1906 novel Botchan, which was authored by Sōseki Natsume, the greatest literary figure in Japan's modern age. Even if you're well-versed in the ins and outs of onsen culture, Dōgo can be a bit confusing as there are two separate baths…
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Matsuyama-jō
Perched on top of Mt Katsuyama in the centre of town, the castle dominates the city, as it has for centuries. Matsuyama-jō is one of Japan's finest surviving castles, and one of the very few with anything interesting to look at inside: there are excellent English-language displays.
A ropeway (one way/return ¥260/500) is on hand to whisk you up the hill, though there is a pleasant pathway if you prefer to walk. It's worth walking down via the back slopes of the castle and stopping off at Ninomaru Shiseki Tei-enin the outer citadel of the fort, consisting of old gardens and modern water features.
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Kōchi-jō
Kōchi-jō is one of just a dozen castles in Japan to have survived with its original tenshu-kaku (keep) intact. The castle was originally built during the first decade of the 17th century by Yamanouchi Katsutoyo, who was appointed daimyō by Tokugawa Ieyasu after he fought on the victorious Tokugawa side in the Battle of Sekigahara in 1600. A major fire destroyed much of the original structure in 1727, and the castle was largely rebuilt between 1748 and 1753.
The castle was the product of an age of peace – it never came under attack, and for the remainder of the Tokugawa period it was more like a stately home than a military fortress.
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Sakamoto Ryōma Memorial Museum
The Sakamoto Ryōma Memorial Museum tells the life story of this local hero in miniature dioramas.
Although it was the progressive samurai class of Kagoshima and Hagi that played a major part in the dramatic events of the Meiji Restoration, the citizens of Kōchi claim it was their hometown hero Sakamoto who brought the two sides together. His assassination in Kyoto in 1867 at the age of 32 cemented his romantic yet tragic image, and he appears - looking distinctly sour - on countless postcards and other tourist memorabilia in Kōchi.
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Ishite-ji
East of Dōgo Onsen is Ishite-ji , 51st of the 88 Temples, and one of the largest and most impressive in the circuit. Ishite means 'stone hand' and comes from a legend associated with Kōbō Daishi. A statue of Kōbō Daishi overlooks the temple from the hillside.
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Dōgo Onsen
According to legend, Dōgo Onsen was discovered during the ancient age of gods when a white heron was found healing itself in the spring. Since then, Dōgo has featured prominently in a number of literary classics, and garnered a reputation for the curative properties of its waters. The mono-alkaline spring contains sulphur, and is believed to be particularly effective at treating rheumatism, neuralgia and hysteria.
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Dōgo-kōen
A small park containing the site of Yuzuki-jō, the former residence of the Kōno clan that ruled Iyo province in feudal times. Articles unearthed during recent excavations are on display in Yuzuki-jō Museum, near the west entrance of the park.
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Kōchi Prefectural Makino Botanical Gardens
On the south side of Godaisan-kōen east of the city centre are the Kōchi Prefectural Makino Botanical Gardens, which features more than 3000 different plant species. Frequent buses from the Harimaya-bashi bus terminal run directly to Godaisan (around ¥150, 10 minutes).
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Sakamoto Ryōma Statue
In addition to the Sakamoto Ryōma Memorial Museum, there is also an impressive statue of Sakamoto Ryōma by Katsura-hama beach. Frequent buses run from Kōchi station to Katsura-hama (around ¥610, 30 minutes).
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Ninomaru Shiseki Tei-en
Walk down the back slopes of the castle hill (Katsuyama) to stroll around the Ninomaru Shiseki Tei-en gardens, which were built in the outer citadel of the castle, and consist of various pools, gardens, rockeries and waterfalls.
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Chikurin-ji (Temple 31)
At the top of the hill in Godaisan-kōen is Chikurin-ji, Temple 31 on the 88 Sacred Temple Circuit, which has pleasant gardens, a five-storey pagoda and a small Treasure House.
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Isaniwa-jinja
Designated a National Treasure, this shrine was modelled on Kyoto's Iwashimizu-Hachimangū and was built in 1667. It's located a short walk east of Dōgo Onsen.
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Yuzuki-jō Museum
Excavations have revealed various relics that are on display of the Yuzuki-jō castle, the former residence of the Kōno clan that oversaw Iyo province in feudal times.
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Shiki Memorial Museum
Just south of Matsuyama-shi Station, in the temple grounds of Shōjūzen-ji. Part of the house where famous haiku poet Shiki Masaoka (1867–1902) spent the first 17 years of his life.
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Shiki-dō
Just south of Matsuyama City station in the temple grounds of Shoshu-ji is Shiki-dō, a replica of the humble house of the legendary haiku poet Shiki Masaoka (1867-1902).
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Godaisan-kōen
Several kilometres east of the city centre on a stand-alone hill is Godaisan-kōen, which has excellent views over the city from its tenbōdai (viewpoint).
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Katsura-hama Beach
Katsura-hama is a popular beach 13km south of central Kōchi at the point where Kōchi's harbour empties out into the bay. Unfortunately, strong currents prohibit swimming. Just before you get to the beach itself is Sakamoto Ryōma Memorial Museum, where the exhibits are dedicated to the life of a local hero who was instrumental in bringing about the Meiji Restoration in the 1860s. Born in Kōchi in 1835, Ryōma brought about the alliance between the Satsuma (modern Kagoshima) and Chōshū (Yamaguchi) domains that eventually brought down the Tokugawa shogunate. He was killed in Kyoto in 1867, aged 32.
There is an aquarium on the beach, and a small shrine on the hillside. B…
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Ehime Museum of Art
The Ehime Museum of Art features rotating exhibitions of 20th-century Japanese art.
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Yōkaichi Historic District
Uchiko's picturesque main street has a number of interesting buildings, many now serving as museums, souvenir stalls, craft shops and charming teahouses. The old buildings typically have cream-coloured plaster walls and 'wings' under the eaves that serve to prevent fire spreading from house to house.
On the left as you walk up the street, look for Ōmori Rōsoku, Uchiko's last remaining candle manufacturer. The candles are still made by hand here, according to traditional methods, and you can watch the candle-makers at work.
As the road makes a slight bend, several well-preserved Edo-era buildings come into view, including Ōmura-tei and Hon-Haga-tei, the latter of which is…
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Uwajima-jō
Dating from 1601, Uwajima-jō is a small three-storey castle on an 80m-high hill in the centre of town. The present structure was rebuilt in 1666 by the daimyō Date Munetoshi. The donjon (main keep) is one of only 12 originals left in Japan; there is nothing much to see inside. The surrounding park, Shiroyama-kōen (城山公園), is open from sunrise to sunset, and is a pleasant place for a stroll.
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Uchiko-za
About halfway between the station and Yōkaichi is Uchiko-za, a magnificent traditional kabuki theatre. Originally constructed in 1916, the theatre was completely restored in 1985, complete with a revolving stage. Performances are still held at the theatre; call ahead for a schedule.
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Tosa Washi Paper Museum
Make your own Japanese paper for ¥300. At Ino, about 10km west of Kōchi.
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Temples 41-42
A great way to get a taste of the 88 Temple pilgrimage without having to slog it out along busy main roads is to take a bus from Uwajima Station direct to Temple 42, Butsumoku-ji (仏木寺; ¥510, 40 minutes). After admiring the thatched bell-house and the statues of the seven gods of good fortune, follow the clearly marked henro trail back through picturesque farming villages and rice paddies to Temple 41, Ryūkō-ji (龍光寺). Here, a steep stone staircase leads up to a pleasant temple and shrine overlooking the fields. It's a little over 5km in all. From outside Ryūkō-ji there are signs to Muden Station (務田駅), a 15-minute (800m) walk away. From here, you can catch a train…
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Takamatsu-jō
The site of Takamatsu's castle now forms delightful Tamamo-kōen, a park where the walls and moat (filled with sea water) survive, along with several of the original turrets. Each spring a swimming race is held in the cool seawater moat to honour an age-old chivalrous tradition. The original castle was built in 1588 for Itoma Chikamasa, and was the home of the region's military rulers until the Meiji Restoration, which happened nearly 300 years later. In 2008 work began on a reconstruction of the main keep – however, it was still far from finished at the time this book went to print.
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Takamatsu City Museum of Art
This impressive inner-city gallery is testament to Takamatsu's quality art scene. The light and spacious refitting of a former Bank of Japan building is a stroke of curatorial genius, well served by interesting exhibitions on rotation from across Japan and the world.
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