Things to do in Kōchi Ken
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Kōchi-jō
Kōchi-jō is one of just a dozen castles in Japan to have survived with its original tenshu-kaku (keep) intact. The castle was originally built during the first decade of the 17th century by Yamanouchi Katsutoyo, who was appointed daimyō by Tokugawa Ieyasu after he fought on the victorious Tokugawa side in the Battle of Sekigahara in 1600. A major fire destroyed much of the original structure in 1727, and the castle was largely rebuilt between 1748 and 1753.
The castle was the product of an age of peace – it never came under attack, and for the remainder of the Tokugawa period it was more like a stately home than a military fortress.
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Sakamoto Ryōma Memorial Museum
The Sakamoto Ryōma Memorial Museum tells the life story of this local hero in miniature dioramas.
Although it was the progressive samurai class of Kagoshima and Hagi that played a major part in the dramatic events of the Meiji Restoration, the citizens of Kōchi claim it was their hometown hero Sakamoto who brought the two sides together. His assassination in Kyoto in 1867 at the age of 32 cemented his romantic yet tragic image, and he appears - looking distinctly sour - on countless postcards and other tourist memorabilia in Kōchi.
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Tokugetsurō
Open since 1870, this is the place to come to if you have a fat wallet and want to try immaculately presented Tosa-ryōri (local cuisine). Unfortunately, this can be a difficult place to visit if you don't read Japanese as the kanji-heavy menu changes daily, though you can always choose which setto-cossu (set course) you'd like based on the price. It's in a traditional building directly across from the Dentetsu Taminaru-biru Mae tram stop.
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Hakobe
This is one of the few remaining cook-it-yourself okinomiyaki joints in Kōchi (¥630) serving cheap and cheerful Japanese pancakes, with good English spoken by the waiters. The 'mix' of ika (squid) and ebi and tori (chicken) is heavenly. Other alternatives include buta (pork) and yasai (vegetables). It's slap bang in the heart of the arcade.
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Hirome Ichiba
Some hundred or so mini restaurants specialising in everything from gomoku rāmen (seafood noodles) to tacoyaki (octopus balls); this is the hub of Kōchi's cheap eats scene. On weekends, it positively heaves with young people drinking hard and happy. It's at the end of the main arcade, just before the castle.
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Kōchi Prefectural Makino Botanical Gardens
On the south side of Godaisan-kōen east of the city centre are the Kōchi Prefectural Makino Botanical Gardens, which features more than 3000 different plant species. Frequent buses from the Harimaya-bashi bus terminal run directly to Godaisan (around ¥150, 10 minutes).
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Viva
On the western edge of Chuō-kōen (look for the English sign) is this trendy dining bar, which has over 100 cocktails and beers on offer from all over the world. On weekends, Viva really gets kicking when the tables are pushed to the walls and the music is turned up.
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Street Market
If you're in Kōchi on a Sunday, don't miss the colourful Street Market along the road leading to the castle. The market, which has been going for some 300 years, has everything from fruit, vegetables and goldfish to antiques, knives and large garden stones.
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Tosa-no-izakaya Ippon-tsuri
In the middle of the Obiyamachi shopping arcade (look for the red lanterns outside), this popular izakaya features sake from each of the prefecture's 19 sake producers - make sure you know how to find your way home if you intend to try all of them.
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Sakamoto Ryōma Statue
In addition to the Sakamoto Ryōma Memorial Museum, there is also an impressive statue of Sakamoto Ryōma by Katsura-hama beach. Frequent buses run from Kōchi station to Katsura-hama (around ¥610, 30 minutes).
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Chikurin-ji (Temple 31)
At the top of the hill in Godaisan-kōen is Chikurin-ji, Temple 31 on the 88 Sacred Temple Circuit, which has pleasant gardens, a five-storey pagoda and a small Treasure House.
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Godaisan-kōen
Several kilometres east of the city centre on a stand-alone hill is Godaisan-kōen, which has excellent views over the city from its tenbōdai (viewpoint).
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Katsura-hama Beach
Katsura-hama is a popular beach 13km south of central Kōchi at the point where Kōchi's harbour empties out into the bay. Unfortunately, strong currents prohibit swimming. Just before you get to the beach itself is Sakamoto Ryōma Memorial Museum, where the exhibits are dedicated to the life of a local hero who was instrumental in bringing about the Meiji Restoration in the 1860s. Born in Kōchi in 1835, Ryōma brought about the alliance between the Satsuma (modern Kagoshima) and Chōshū (Yamaguchi) domains that eventually brought down the Tokugawa shogunate. He was killed in Kyoto in 1867, aged 32.
There is an aquarium on the beach, and a small shrine on the hillside. B…
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Uofuku
Uofuku is a fabulous curb-side izakaya (pub-eatery) on a quiet backstreet behind the arcade. Fish is the order of the day, handpicked from the tank by the door. The menu is a mess of kanji; try the katsuo tataki (around ¥1200) or ask for osusume (a recommendation). This is a good place for adventurous eaters to try shutō – the pickled and fermented innards of the bonito fish (¥450), which locals regard as a delicacy.
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Tosa Washi Paper Museum
Make your own Japanese paper for ¥300. At Ino, about 10km west of Kōchi.
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Sunday Market
Our favourite street market in Shikoku, 300 years old, takes place every Sunday along the main road leading to the castle. Colourful stalls sell fresh produce, tonics and tinctures, knives, flowers, garden stones and wooden antiques.
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Love Jamaican
This fully legit reggae and hip-hop club is a hive of after-hours mayhem thanks to a classy sound system, generous drink deals and a manicured young crowd.
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Habotan
Red lanterns mark out this locals' izakaya. The menu, plastered over the walls, is in Japanese, but the food is under glass on the counter, so you can always point. Sashimi moriawase (a selection of sashimi) is ¥1050. Local booze includes Tosa-tsuru sake and Dabada Hiburi, a shōchū (distilled grain liquor) made from chestnuts. It's opposite Chūō Kōen, near several banks.
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Gosankeshi
Named after the auspicious carp, this is Kōchi's hottest spot for high quality, affordable seafood. Sweet, pan-fried ebi (shrimp) and delectable tai (snapper) dishes are whipped up on demand by young, affable chefs. It's in the heart of the party district and makes an ideal predrinking feast.
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Godaisan Park
Several kilometres east of the town centre is the mountain of Godaisan, where there are excellent views out over the city from a lookout point (展望台) in a park. A short walk away at the top of the hill is Chikurin-ji (竹林寺), Temple 31 of the 88, where the main hall was built by the second Tosa daimyō, Yamanouchi Tadayoshi, in 1644. The extensive grounds also feature a five-storey pagoda and thousands of statues of the Bodhisattva Jizō, guardian deity of children and travellers. The Treasure Househosts an impressive collection of Buddhist sculpture from the Heian and Kamakura periods; the same ticket gets you into the lovely late-Kamakura-period garden opposite…
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Famille Horse Shoe Bar
Pull up one of five stools in the heart of the food market and watch the world go by as the young owner plies you with wisdom and whisky. Beers cost ¥600 and shots are two-for-one.
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Café Panda
Contemporary bar meals with an emphasis on healthy seafood dishes are on offer at this classy new establishment decked out in floorboards, white furniture and glass tables. The light electronic soundtrack kicks on until 2am.
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