Sights in Ehime Ken
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Dōgo Onsen Honkan
The main building at Dōgo Onsen, Dōgo Onsen Honkan, was constructed in 1894, and designated as an important cultural site in 1994. The three-storey, castle-style building incorporates traditional design elements, and is crowned with a statue of a white heron in commemoration of its legendary origins.
Although countless famous people have passed through its doors, Dōgo Onsen Honkan rose to popularity following its inclusion in the famous 1906 novel Botchan, which was authored by Sōseki Natsume, the greatest literary figure in Japan's modern age. Even if you're well-versed in the ins and outs of onsen culture, Dōgo can be a bit confusing as there are two separate baths…
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Matsuyama-jō
Perched on top of Mt Katsuyama in the centre of town, the castle dominates the city, as it has for centuries. Matsuyama-jō is one of Japan's finest surviving castles, and one of the very few with anything interesting to look at inside: there are excellent English-language displays.
A ropeway (one way/return ¥260/500) is on hand to whisk you up the hill, though there is a pleasant pathway if you prefer to walk. It's worth walking down via the back slopes of the castle and stopping off at Ninomaru Shiseki Tei-enin the outer citadel of the fort, consisting of old gardens and modern water features.
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Ishite-ji
East of Dōgo Onsen is Ishite-ji , 51st of the 88 Temples, and one of the largest and most impressive in the circuit. Ishite means 'stone hand' and comes from a legend associated with Kōbō Daishi. A statue of Kōbō Daishi overlooks the temple from the hillside.
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Dōgo Onsen
According to legend, Dōgo Onsen was discovered during the ancient age of gods when a white heron was found healing itself in the spring. Since then, Dōgo has featured prominently in a number of literary classics, and garnered a reputation for the curative properties of its waters. The mono-alkaline spring contains sulphur, and is believed to be particularly effective at treating rheumatism, neuralgia and hysteria.
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Dōgo-kōen
A small park containing the site of Yuzuki-jō, the former residence of the Kōno clan that ruled Iyo province in feudal times. Articles unearthed during recent excavations are on display in Yuzuki-jō Museum, near the west entrance of the park.
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Ninomaru Shiseki Tei-en
Walk down the back slopes of the castle hill (Katsuyama) to stroll around the Ninomaru Shiseki Tei-en gardens, which were built in the outer citadel of the castle, and consist of various pools, gardens, rockeries and waterfalls.
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Isaniwa-jinja
Designated a National Treasure, this shrine was modelled on Kyoto's Iwashimizu-Hachimangū and was built in 1667. It's located a short walk east of Dōgo Onsen.
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Yuzuki-jō Museum
Excavations have revealed various relics that are on display of the Yuzuki-jō castle, the former residence of the Kōno clan that oversaw Iyo province in feudal times.
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Shiki Memorial Museum
Just south of Matsuyama-shi Station, in the temple grounds of Shōjūzen-ji. Part of the house where famous haiku poet Shiki Masaoka (1867–1902) spent the first 17 years of his life.
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Shiki-dō
Just south of Matsuyama City station in the temple grounds of Shoshu-ji is Shiki-dō, a replica of the humble house of the legendary haiku poet Shiki Masaoka (1867-1902).
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Ehime Museum of Art
The Ehime Museum of Art features rotating exhibitions of 20th-century Japanese art.
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Yōkaichi Historic District
Uchiko's picturesque main street has a number of interesting buildings, many now serving as museums, souvenir stalls, craft shops and charming teahouses. The old buildings typically have cream-coloured plaster walls and 'wings' under the eaves that serve to prevent fire spreading from house to house.
On the left as you walk up the street, look for Ōmori Rōsoku, Uchiko's last remaining candle manufacturer. The candles are still made by hand here, according to traditional methods, and you can watch the candle-makers at work.
As the road makes a slight bend, several well-preserved Edo-era buildings come into view, including Ōmura-tei and Hon-Haga-tei, the latter of which is…
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Uwajima-jō
Dating from 1601, Uwajima-jō is a small three-storey castle on an 80m-high hill in the centre of town. The present structure was rebuilt in 1666 by the daimyō Date Munetoshi. The donjon (main keep) is one of only 12 originals left in Japan; there is nothing much to see inside. The surrounding park, Shiroyama-kōen (城山公園), is open from sunrise to sunset, and is a pleasant place for a stroll.
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Uchiko-za
About halfway between the station and Yōkaichi is Uchiko-za, a magnificent traditional kabuki theatre. Originally constructed in 1916, the theatre was completely restored in 1985, complete with a revolving stage. Performances are still held at the theatre; call ahead for a schedule.
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Temples 41-42
A great way to get a taste of the 88 Temple pilgrimage without having to slog it out along busy main roads is to take a bus from Uwajima Station direct to Temple 42, Butsumoku-ji (仏木寺; ¥510, 40 minutes). After admiring the thatched bell-house and the statues of the seven gods of good fortune, follow the clearly marked henro trail back through picturesque farming villages and rice paddies to Temple 41, Ryūkō-ji (龍光寺). Here, a steep stone staircase leads up to a pleasant temple and shrine overlooking the fields. It's a little over 5km in all. From outside Ryūkō-ji there are signs to Muden Station (務田駅), a 15-minute (800m) walk away. From here, you can catch a train…
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Taga-jinja & Sex Museum
Once upon a time, many Shintō shrines had a connection to fertility rites. Of those that remain, Taga-jinja is one of the best known. The grounds of the shrine are strewn with tree-trunk phalluses and numerous statues and stone carvings. Inside, the museum is packed with anthropological erotica from all corners of the procreating world. The shrine is 500m northwest of town, over the Suka-gawa.
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Museum of Commerce & Domestic Life
A few minutes' walk further north along the main road from Uchiko-za is the Museum of Commerce & Domestic Life, which exhibits historical materials and wax figures portraying a typical merchant scene of the early 20th century.
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Municipal Bullfighting Ring
Tōgyū (闘牛) can probably be called a sort of bovine sumō. Victory is achieved when one animal forces the other to its knees, or when one turns tail and flees from the ring. Fights are held on 2 January, the first Sunday of April, 24 July, 14 August and the fourth Sunday of October. Directions to the bullfighting ring are available at the tourist information office.
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Date Museum
The well-presented exhibits at the excellent Date Museum are dedicated to the Date family, who ruled Uwajima from the castle for 250 years during the Tokugawa period. The explanations are mostly in Japanese, but a lot of the stuff on display – swords, armour, palanquins and lacquerware – is pretty self-explanatory.
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