Shikoku
Red lanterns mark out this locals' izakaya opposite Chūō-kōen that opens at the shockingly early hour of 11am. The food is under glass on the counter, so…
Shikoku
Red lanterns mark out this locals' izakaya opposite Chūō-kōen that opens at the shockingly early hour of 11am. The food is under glass on the counter, so…
Kansai
This tiny izakaya (Japanese pub-eatery) serves satisfying classics like agedashi-tofu (creamy, deep-fried tofu) and yaki-zakana (grilled fish), paired…
Western Honshū
You sit almost inside the kitchen at this tiny restaurant next to Imbe Station, witnessing buta kimchi don (kimchi and pork rice bowl) or hiyashi udon …
Osaka
There are dozens of restaurants (including Japanese, French, Spanish and Chinese), plus cafes, bakeries and sweet shops on the upper floors of the Grand…
Hiroshima Region
Like neighbouring Hiroshima, Onomichi has its own spin on okonomiyaki – Onomichi-yaki – with the key ingredient here being chicken giblets. If you prefer…
Kyūshū
A sweet new cafe with decorative homages to Takachiho-jinja, this place does breakfasts, and lunches such as curry rice (even a vegan version!) and gyūdon…
Beppu
In the heart of Beppu, this welcoming izakaya is a long-standing favourite with visitors and locals. For something to go with your booze, pick from the…
Harajuku & Aoyama
Each month this restaurant focuses on a particular country's breakfast tradition, from Indian idli (fermented rice and lentil cakes) to Brazilian pão de…
Hiroshima
The lovely owners' personalities show in this cafe, decorated like a hip, high-ceilinged refurb' with upcycled wooden furniture, plants, and homemade…
Kagoshima
This happy spot is festooned with an eclectic collection of Shōwa-period pop-culture memorabilia. It's where young Japanese come to hang out over a few…
Noboribetsu Onsen
Noboribetsu's landmark ramen shop serves up fiery red 'jigokudani' noodles that would make the local oni (devils) proud. Entry level is a totally…
Osaka
Friendly and trendy, near Ame-Mura's western edge, Absinthe serves cocktails, teas and juices, plus a rare (for Japan) Mediterranean and Middle Eastern…
Aomori Prefecture
One of the fanciest establishments in Hirosaki, this elegant restaurant offers French-inspired banquets, many including the chef's famous 'miracle' cold…
Niigata Prefecture
The speciality here is awabi (abalone), grilled as a steak (at market rate) or, more affordably, barbecued with a sweet soy-sauce marinade and served over…
Northern Honshū (Tōhoku)
Perennial local favourites from land and sea such as kaisen-don (mixed sashimi on rice) and gyūtan (chargrilled cow's tongue) feature here, along with…
Kagawa Prefecture
At some point, you may overdose on Sanuki-udon. How refreshing at such times to belly up to a gleaming, comfortingly minimalist, friendly sushi bar. There…
Northern Honshū (Tōhoku)
One of the most popular places to try the sublime wappa meshi (steamed fish or vegetables over rice, prepared in a container made from tree bark, which…
Takayama
The owner of this friendly restaurant does a great job bringing the flavours of Mexico to a quiet Japanese street. The taste and dainty portions of tacos,…
Asakusa & Sumida River
This tiny place has a real old Edo flavour and is an unpretentious unagi (eel) restaurant. The menu is simple: a ‘small’ gets you two slices of charcoal…
Kyūshū
This kitsch-filled spot is larger and has shorter queues than its sister, the original Ogura Honten in the town centre, but it still serves famous chikin…
Osaka
This cute little shop inside a late 19th-century wooden townhouse on the Karahori Shōtengai serves a changing rotation of eclectic (perhaps incorporating…
Hokkaidō
A surprisingly tasty cafe for a ferry terminal, Tsuki serves up coffee, cakes and curries to waiting passengers. Service is so-so, and nonsmokers may have…
Naoshima
The laid-back team here serve Japanese curries (including vegetarian eggplant and broccoli), cakes and smoothies by day, and open up the bar (with some…
Nara
With its red lanterns and plastic food models out the front, Kameya doesn't look like anything special, but the okonomiyaki (savoury pancake) at this…
Osaka
This tempura specialist in the Hilton Plaza packs 'em in at lunchtime but lacks atmosphere at dinner. The small tempura set at lunch comes with rice, miso…
Harajuku & Aoyama
Come sample the elegantly thin noodles, silky chāshū (roast pork) and righteous karashi takana (hot pickled greens) for which Kyūshū-style ramen is famous…
Tokushima & the Anan Coast
Named after an anime character who always arrives in the nick of time, Kisuke has built a reputation for imaginative seafood dishes. Get a recommendation…
Western Honshū
This bustling yakitori (skewers of grilled chicken) place has a large menu of individual sticks and rice dishes. Get an assortment of six skewers for ¥626…
Shinjuku & Northwest Tokyo
In Shin-Ōkubo's Koreatown, Shin-chan specialises in spicy Korean-style fried chicken, sold by the half (from ¥1400) or whole (¥2485) bird. There's a…
Western Honshū
This restaurant has a satisfying iwakuni-zushi set (¥1080) that comes with a side of renkon noodles, plus udon dishes from ¥650. There's no English menu…
Kumamoto
A couple of blocks southeast of the Shimotōri Arcade, amid side streets reminiscent of Tokyo's trendy Omote-Sando, this charming shop has mottled red…
Osaka
The signature dish at this small food stand with a picture menu is ika-yaki – grilled squid, served here in a thin crêpe splattered with egg, mayonaise…
Northern Honshū (Tōhoku)
This peculiar concept cafe enjoys a lovely riverside locale and is run by a busy young team of foodies who specialise in desserts, fancy teas and organic…
Hiroshima Region
Retro furnishings, battered-looking walls decorated with local artwork, and a mellow playlist add up to a relaxed spot for a drink or light meal. The menu…
Southern Higashiyama
Heaped with red ginger and green scallions, the okonomiyaki at this Gion institution is a garish snack – which somehow seems fitting considering the…
Amami Islands
Spacious and relaxed, the cafe run by Pension Green Hill has reggae setting the mood (of course) and Japanese-style surf grub like green curry and tom yum…
Odaiba & Tokyo Bay
Hibiki has big picture windows overlooking Tokyo Bay and Rainbow Bridge. It is a chain, but it's a reliable one. The lunch set, which includes a main,…
Tokushima & the Anan Coast
'Self Udon' is very popular – line up at the counter, then when it's your turn, choose cold or hot noodles before heading further along the counter to…
Kyūshū
This intimate trattoria has an open kitchen, two large tables and a long counter badly in need of 'no smoking' signs. Shrimp and avocado spaghetti in…
Western Honshū
The name of this little counter-top restaurant is also its trademark dish: tori-soba (steaming bowls of noodles packed with chicken and served in a tasty…