Must-see restaurants in Japan

  • Pia Bandai

    Niigata Prefecture

    Conveniently located on the way to the Sado Kisen ferry terminal, this sprawling complex includes markets and eateries – so you can gawk at the bounty of…

  • Ebisu-Honten

    Takayama

    These folks have been making teuchi (handmade) soba since 1898. Try the zaru soba, which strips it bare so you can taste the flavour of the noodles. The…

  • Rokusei

    Beppu

    There's nothing fancy going on here, but Rokusei's a temple to reimen (cold noodle soup) nonetheless. Bowls are pulled straight from the freezer, filled…

  • Edo Noren

    Asakusa & Sumida River

    The old Ryōgoku Station has been transformed into this touristy, sumo-themed food hall with souvenir shops and 11 different restaurants on two floors. In…

  • Jigoku Mushi Kōbō

    Beppu

    Amid the hells (boiling hot springs) of Kannawa, you can cook your own meal in onsen steam at this workshop. Purchase ingredients on the spot (or bring…

  • Omen Nippon

    Downtown Kyoto

    This is the downtown branch of the famous Ginkaku-ji noodle restaurant. It serves a variety of healthy set meals and, of course, the signature omen udon…

  • Gochisō Tonjiru

    Shinjuku & Northwest Tokyo

    Tonjiru, a home-cooking classic, is a hearty miso soup packed with root veggies (such as burdock root, daikon/radish, potato and carrot) and chunks of…

  • Ganso Hakata Mentaijū

    Fukuoka

    Behind a geometric lattice facade, this shop specialises in mentaijū – mentaiko (spicy cod roe, a Fukuoka delicacy), wrapped with savoury kelp and served…

  • Hōuntei

    Nagasaki

    Patrons have been ordering the hito-kuchi gyōza (¥380 for 10) at this rustic hole-in-the-wall place since the 1970s. Also try butaniratoji (pork and…

  • Grill Jūjiya

    Kōbe

    In a city thick with east–west heritage, this old-fashioned charmer specialises in yōshoku, early Japanese takes on Western cooking, like hayashi rice …

  • Yumeichi-chaya

    Kansai

    A great spot for lunch in Asuka, above a local produce market and taking advantage of all those fresh ingredients in home-cooking-style dishes. Try the…

  • Bird Land

    Ginza & Tsukiji

    Most yakitori restaurants fall into the 'cheap and cheerful' category. Not Birdland: here chefs in whites grill heirloom free-range chicken (from Ibaraki…

  • Izakaya Sō

    Amami Islands

    Head towards the port from town, and on the main road after the bridge you'll spy an ersatz waterwheel in front of a corner restaurant. Step inside and…

  • Ahoya

    Izu Peninsula

    In a 140-year-old former shipping workshop, this funky snack shack hawks yummy tako-yaki (fried wheat balls filled with octopus) and shimodoyaki, its own…

  • Ajitsukasa Nomura

    Western Honshū

    Step into this quiet bamboo-themed restaurant to try Okayama speciality demi-katsudon – deep-fried pork cutlets with a thick, rich demi-glace sauce,…

  • Dōgo Uotake

    Ehime Prefecture

    At the start of the arcade in front of Dōgo Onsen Honkan, Uotake offers up excellent set-menu seafood meals. Enjoy the booth seating and inspect the…

  • Komeshiruna

    Harajuku & Aoyama

    This food truck – our vote for Tokyo's best – is kitted out with a real wood-burning kamada, an old-fashioned cauldron-style rice cooker. And the…

  • No No Budo

    Fukuoka

    The IMS Building has prime skyline views from its 12th- and 13th-floor restaurants, including No No Budo. This busy self-serve gourmet buffet has about 80…

  • Gonpachi

    Roppongi, Akasaka & Around

    This cavernous old Edo-style space (said to have inspired a memorable set in Quentin Tarantino's Kill Bill) is a Tokyo dining institution, with other less…

  • Nagi

    Shinjuku & Northwest Tokyo

    Nagi, once an edgy upstart in the ramen world, now has branches around the city. This tiny shop is one of the originals, located up a treacherous stairway…

  • Wanto Burger

    Kōbe

    Wanto serves towering, teetering burgers made with Kōbe beef – and also somewhat less expensive varieties of wagyū (Japanese beef). It's run by a cool…

  • Taketora

    Kyūshū

    Even tiny Ibusuki has its own ramen style. This polished shop won a prefectural ramen competition for its Kaimon-dake ramen (¥950), filled with local…

  • Manboshi

    Tokyo

    Work your way through Inokashira-kōen and then end up at this little tavern – whose name means '10,000 stars' – at the far tip of the park, just steps…

  • Kiraku

    Kii Peninsula

    This very popular local shop does excellent teishoku (set meals) with sashimi (raw fish), yaki-zakana (grilled fish) and more.

  • Wabi Sabi Cafe

    Izu Peninsula

    Choose from chair or hammock to savour the serenity at this homespun cafe, part of Wabi Sabi guesthouse, serving veggie and vegan Japanese fusion food…

  • Agaru Sagaru Nishi-iru Higashi-iru

    Harajuku & Aoyama

    This chill little restaurant serves Kyoto-style food (deceptively simple, with the ingredients – always seasonal – taking centre stage) without pretense…

  • Udon Yamachō

    Ebisu, Meguro & Around

    This rustic-chic noodle joint alongside the Shibuya-gawa, with ties to Osaka's famous Kuro-mon market, is one of Tokyo's best spots for Kansai-style udon …

  • Katsu Midori

    Shibuya & Shimo-Kitazawa

    This kaiten-zushi (conveyor-belt sushi restaurant) iis known to be far better than average, so there's nearly always a queue. Go at nontypical meal times …

  • Papa Jon's

    Imperial Palace & Around

    A short walk from the north border of the Imperial Palace Park, this light-filled cafe serves brilliant New York cheesecake (¥550) and hot drinks. Other…

  • Nakajima

    Shinjuku & Northwest Tokyo

    In the evening, Nakajima serves exquisite kaiseki (Japanese haute cuisine) dinners. On weekdays, it also serves a set lunch of humble iwashi (sardines)…

  • Afuri

    Ebisu, Meguro & Around

    Afuri has been a major player in the local ramen scene, making a strong case for a light touch with its signature yuzu-shio (a light, salty broth…

  • Nishiya

    Osaka

    A peaceful retreat from the busy streets of Shinsaibashi, this welcoming Osaka landmark serves udon noodles, hearty nabe (hot pot) dishes and shabu-shabu …

  • Umi Café

    Amami Islands

    This delightful terraced gallery-cafe with ocean views is something you'd expect to find perched on a Greek cliff; it's no surprise to find chicken gyros …

  • Torito

    Northern Higashiyama

    This is part of the new wave of yakitori (skewers of chicken, and other meats or vegetables) restaurants in Kyoto that are updating the old standards in…

  • Mimiu Honten

    Osaka

    Mimiu is the originator of a beloved local speciality called udonsuki (a hot-pot dish of simmering chicken, clams, prawns and seasonal vegetables). After…

  • Aux Amis Des Vins

    Ginza & Tsukiji

    In pricy Ginza, this compact bistro stands out for being warm, friendly and eminently reasonable. Between lunch and dinner service, stop by for coffee and…

  • Yuwaeru Honten

    Asakusa & Sumida River

    Yuwaeru prides itself on its brown rice, and other traditional, healthy dishes. Lunch is teishoku (set meal) cafeteria-style: grab a tray and follow the…

  • Mikuniya

    Central Honshū

    Fill up on tasty bowls of sansai soba (buckwheat noodles with mountain vegetables; ¥800) at this popular place on the shopping street that runs behind…

  • Cafe Penguin Hotel

    Ehime Prefecture

    Hotel… no, cafe… yes! Despite its name, you can't stay here. This cosy lunch spot offers lovingly prepared meals of pan-Asian cuisine, from bulgogi …

  • Ippo

    Ebisu, Meguro & Around

    This mellow little izakaya (Japanese pub-eatery) specialises in simple pleasures: fish and sake (there’s an English sign out front that says just that)…

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