Niigata Prefecture
Conveniently located on the way to the Sado Kisen ferry terminal, this sprawling complex includes markets and eateries – so you can gawk at the bounty of…
Niigata Prefecture
Conveniently located on the way to the Sado Kisen ferry terminal, this sprawling complex includes markets and eateries – so you can gawk at the bounty of…
Takayama
These folks have been making teuchi (handmade) soba since 1898. Try the zaru soba, which strips it bare so you can taste the flavour of the noodles. The…
Beppu
There's nothing fancy going on here, but Rokusei's a temple to reimen (cold noodle soup) nonetheless. Bowls are pulled straight from the freezer, filled…
Asakusa & Sumida River
The old Ryōgoku Station has been transformed into this touristy, sumo-themed food hall with souvenir shops and 11 different restaurants on two floors. In…
Beppu
Amid the hells (boiling hot springs) of Kannawa, you can cook your own meal in onsen steam at this workshop. Purchase ingredients on the spot (or bring…
Downtown Kyoto
This is the downtown branch of the famous Ginkaku-ji noodle restaurant. It serves a variety of healthy set meals and, of course, the signature omen udon…
Shinjuku & Northwest Tokyo
Tonjiru, a home-cooking classic, is a hearty miso soup packed with root veggies (such as burdock root, daikon/radish, potato and carrot) and chunks of…
Fukuoka
Behind a geometric lattice facade, this shop specialises in mentaijū – mentaiko (spicy cod roe, a Fukuoka delicacy), wrapped with savoury kelp and served…
Nagasaki
Patrons have been ordering the hito-kuchi gyōza (¥380 for 10) at this rustic hole-in-the-wall place since the 1970s. Also try butaniratoji (pork and…
Kōbe
In a city thick with east–west heritage, this old-fashioned charmer specialises in yōshoku, early Japanese takes on Western cooking, like hayashi rice …
Kansai
A great spot for lunch in Asuka, above a local produce market and taking advantage of all those fresh ingredients in home-cooking-style dishes. Try the…
Ginza & Tsukiji
Most yakitori restaurants fall into the 'cheap and cheerful' category. Not Birdland: here chefs in whites grill heirloom free-range chicken (from Ibaraki…
Amami Islands
Head towards the port from town, and on the main road after the bridge you'll spy an ersatz waterwheel in front of a corner restaurant. Step inside and…
Izu Peninsula
In a 140-year-old former shipping workshop, this funky snack shack hawks yummy tako-yaki (fried wheat balls filled with octopus) and shimodoyaki, its own…
Western Honshū
Step into this quiet bamboo-themed restaurant to try Okayama speciality demi-katsudon – deep-fried pork cutlets with a thick, rich demi-glace sauce,…
Ehime Prefecture
At the start of the arcade in front of Dōgo Onsen Honkan, Uotake offers up excellent set-menu seafood meals. Enjoy the booth seating and inspect the…
Harajuku & Aoyama
This food truck – our vote for Tokyo's best – is kitted out with a real wood-burning kamada, an old-fashioned cauldron-style rice cooker. And the…
Fukuoka
The IMS Building has prime skyline views from its 12th- and 13th-floor restaurants, including No No Budo. This busy self-serve gourmet buffet has about 80…
Roppongi, Akasaka & Around
This cavernous old Edo-style space (said to have inspired a memorable set in Quentin Tarantino's Kill Bill) is a Tokyo dining institution, with other less…
Shinjuku & Northwest Tokyo
Nagi, once an edgy upstart in the ramen world, now has branches around the city. This tiny shop is one of the originals, located up a treacherous stairway…
Kōbe
Wanto serves towering, teetering burgers made with Kōbe beef – and also somewhat less expensive varieties of wagyū (Japanese beef). It's run by a cool…
Kyūshū
Even tiny Ibusuki has its own ramen style. This polished shop won a prefectural ramen competition for its Kaimon-dake ramen (¥950), filled with local…
Tokyo
Work your way through Inokashira-kōen and then end up at this little tavern – whose name means '10,000 stars' – at the far tip of the park, just steps…
Kii Peninsula
This very popular local shop does excellent teishoku (set meals) with sashimi (raw fish), yaki-zakana (grilled fish) and more.
Izu Peninsula
Choose from chair or hammock to savour the serenity at this homespun cafe, part of Wabi Sabi guesthouse, serving veggie and vegan Japanese fusion food…
Agaru Sagaru Nishi-iru Higashi-iru
Harajuku & Aoyama
This chill little restaurant serves Kyoto-style food (deceptively simple, with the ingredients – always seasonal – taking centre stage) without pretense…
Ebisu, Meguro & Around
This rustic-chic noodle joint alongside the Shibuya-gawa, with ties to Osaka's famous Kuro-mon market, is one of Tokyo's best spots for Kansai-style udon …
Shibuya & Shimo-Kitazawa
This kaiten-zushi (conveyor-belt sushi restaurant) iis known to be far better than average, so there's nearly always a queue. Go at nontypical meal times …
Imperial Palace & Around
A short walk from the north border of the Imperial Palace Park, this light-filled cafe serves brilliant New York cheesecake (¥550) and hot drinks. Other…
Shinjuku & Northwest Tokyo
In the evening, Nakajima serves exquisite kaiseki (Japanese haute cuisine) dinners. On weekdays, it also serves a set lunch of humble iwashi (sardines)…
Ebisu, Meguro & Around
Afuri has been a major player in the local ramen scene, making a strong case for a light touch with its signature yuzu-shio (a light, salty broth…
Osaka
A peaceful retreat from the busy streets of Shinsaibashi, this welcoming Osaka landmark serves udon noodles, hearty nabe (hot pot) dishes and shabu-shabu …
Amami Islands
This delightful terraced gallery-cafe with ocean views is something you'd expect to find perched on a Greek cliff; it's no surprise to find chicken gyros …
Northern Higashiyama
This is part of the new wave of yakitori (skewers of chicken, and other meats or vegetables) restaurants in Kyoto that are updating the old standards in…
Osaka
Mimiu is the originator of a beloved local speciality called udonsuki (a hot-pot dish of simmering chicken, clams, prawns and seasonal vegetables). After…
Ginza & Tsukiji
In pricy Ginza, this compact bistro stands out for being warm, friendly and eminently reasonable. Between lunch and dinner service, stop by for coffee and…
Asakusa & Sumida River
Yuwaeru prides itself on its brown rice, and other traditional, healthy dishes. Lunch is teishoku (set meal) cafeteria-style: grab a tray and follow the…
Central Honshū
Fill up on tasty bowls of sansai soba (buckwheat noodles with mountain vegetables; ¥800) at this popular place on the shopping street that runs behind…
Ehime Prefecture
Hotel… no, cafe… yes! Despite its name, you can't stay here. This cosy lunch spot offers lovingly prepared meals of pan-Asian cuisine, from bulgogi …
Ebisu, Meguro & Around
This mellow little izakaya (Japanese pub-eatery) specialises in simple pleasures: fish and sake (there’s an English sign out front that says just that)…