Vegetarian restaurants in Japan
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A
Sunny Place
Sunny Place is a fine little organic vegetarian eatery not far from the Hyakumamben intersection (within walking distance of Ginkaku-ji ). It has a long wooden counter at which everyone tends to chat with both their neighbour and the friendly owner. The standard set includes a nonmeat protein dish (such as tempeh), three vegetable sides, rice and miso soup. Sunny Place is a bit tricky to find. Starting from the Hyakumamben crossing, walk west on Imadegawa-dōri to the first set of traffic lights; turn right and walk about 200m (you’ll cross one fairly large street). It will be on the right; there’s usually an English sign out the front.
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Yōshūji
Yōshūji serves superb shōjin-ryōri in a delightful old Japanese farmhouse with an irori (open hearth). The house special, a sumptuous selection of vegetarian dishes served in red lacquered bowls, is called kurama-yama shōjin zen (¥2600). Or if you just feel like a quick bite, try the uzu-soba (soba topped with mountain vegetables; ¥1050). You'll find it halfway up the steps leading to the main gate of Kurama-dera; look for the orange lanterns out the front.
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Nataraj
Herbivores don’t have it easy in Tokyo, though thankfully there is reason to rejoice at this Indian-influenced vegetarian spot. Nataraj brings its warm colours, low-key elegance and animal-friendly cuisine to this enormous three-storey branch shop in the heart of Ginza. Sizeable set meals include appealing choices such as pumpkin curry and chickpea pakora, which go down well with an extensive wine and beer list of domestic and international favourites.
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Mominoki House
Those seeking some relief from too much tonkatsu can stop into Mominoki House, which turns out excellent macrobiotic food. In this rambling little warren of a space, corners are filled with jazz and happy plants, and the proprietor will stop and chat about Stevie Wonder, pottery and holistic living.
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D
Machapuchare
This organic vegetarian restaurant serves a sublime vegetarian obanzai set (Kyoto home-style cooking). The problem is, the restaurant keeps somewhat irregular hours and the obanzai is not always available. Get a Japanese speaker to call and check before trekking here.
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E
Biotei
Located diagonally across from the Nakagyō post office, this is a favourite of Kyoto vegetarians. Best for lunch, it serves a daily set of Japanese vegetarian food (the occasional bit of meat is offered as an option, but you'll be asked your preference). It's up the metal spiral steps.
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Shizenkan Ii
Strict vegans and vegetarians looking to sample Japanese favourites may find it tough in Tokyo, though Shizenkan II fills the gap with gluten cutlets and substantial lunch sets of prettily arranged piles of vegies. The food is flavourful and packs a nutritional wallop, and there's even a health food shop in the front part of the restaurant in case you're looking to stock the fridge at home.
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Hanabishi Honten
If you fancy something a little nicer than a shokudō, you could try this slightly overpriced restaurant. At lunch, the sankozen set (a variety of vegetarian dishes, around ¥2100) is a good choice. Look for the grey façade and the food models in the window (which will also help ordering, if necessary).
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Café Peace
This is a pleasant spot for a cuppa or a light organic vegetarian meal. It’s a little cramped but the soothing décor makes up for this. Lunch sets include green curry, sandwiches and Japanese fare. The English menu will help with ordering. Café Peace is on the 3rd floor but there’s a small sign at street level.
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Myōgaya
A good-for-you vibe pervades this tiny, organic restaurant and food shop, which is adorned with natural fibres, a block east of the train station. Look for tasty vegetarian curry with brown rice, samosas, fruit juices, dandelion tea and coffees. Reservations are requested on Saturdays.
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SShizenha Restaurant Obanzai
A little out of the way but good value, Obanzai serves a good buffet-style lunch/dinner of mostly organic vegetarian food. It's northwest of the Karasuma-Oike crossing, set back from the street a bit. Lunch on weekends is ¥1050.
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Kyō Kurabu
This restaurant in Nishiki Market is a great spot to take a break from exploring the market. The menu is pan-Asian and meals can be had for about ¥1000. You can also just have a drink. It's up the stairs two doors down (west) from Aritsugu knife shop; look for the signs that read 'Café Dining' and 'kyo club'.
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Cafe Proverbs 15:17
This is a pleasant spot for a cuppa or a light vegetarian meal. Lunch sets include green curry, sandwiches and Japanese fare. It's on the 3rd floor but there's a small sign on street level.
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M
Ofukuro
This fabulous washofu (local eating house) in the heart of the entertainment district offers a well-priced and hearty dining experience. A number of delicious, preprepared vegetarian and fish dishes sit on the counter. The complimentary salad and miso soup make minimeals. It's next door to a popular yakitori restaurant, east of Minami-shinmachi.
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Café Jumelle
Matsuyama has a revelatory organic food store and cafe that serves up heartening soy-based meals with clean flavours and crisp presentation. It's a godsend for vegans and for anyone who loves a lightly sugared dessert.
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Sai-ji-ki
This vegetarian restaurant serves an all-you-can eat buffet of mostly Japanese food for ¥1799. If you go at lunchtime, be prepared to sit in line.
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