Things to do in Northern Honshū
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Temple Walk
There are several temples in the vicinity of Mano, many of which lie along a peaceful 7km nature trail that begins just west of Konpon-ji, near the Danpū-jōbus stop. It's a short walk from there to the Myōsen-ji temple, which has a distinctive five-storey pagoda.
The trail then passes through rice fields and up old wooden steps set into the hillside to Kokubun-ji, Sado-ga-shima's oldest temple (dating from 741); although sadly neglected, it's still beautiful. Another 3km takes you past marvellous lookout points to Mano Go-ryō, the tomb of Emperor Juntoku. From there, it's a short walk down to Sado Rekishi Densetsukan where tireless robots illustrate dioramas of Sado's …
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Aizu Bukeyashiki
Saigō Tanomo was the Aizu clan's chief retainer and Aizu Bukeyashiki is a superbly realised reconstruction of his yashiki (villa). Wander through the 38 rooms that include a guestroom for the Aizu lord, a tea-ceremony house, quarters for the clan's judge and a rice-cleaning mill presented here in full, noisy working order. Don't miss the samurai lavatory: underneath is a sandbox on wheels, an 'early-warning system' that could be removed so staff could monitor the health of the warriors.
You'll also find the room where Tanomo's wife and children committed suicide, fearing he wouldn't return from combat in the Bōshin War - although the utter impassivity of the wax models …
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Sendai-jō Ato
Sendai-jō Ato is the second of Sendai's star attractions. Though destroyed during Allied bombing in WWII, the giant, moss-covered walls are as imposing as they are impressive - and the spot makes a great meander. Built on Aoba-yama in 1602 by Date Masamune, it was commonly known as Aoba-jō (Green Leaves Castle), after a nearby spring that flowed even during times of drought.
It affords sweeping views over the city, but keep in mind that there's not a lot here other than a stirring statue of Masamune on horseback, views, and little shops and restaurants. For the Japanese it's the spirit that counts, and armed with a little knowledge of the Masamune legend, it's rather ea…
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Sado Kinzan Gold Mine
You'll have to venture up a steep mountain to access this gold mine, which produced large quantities of gold and silver until its demise in 1989. Descend into the chilly depths where you'll encounter robots that dramatise the tough existence of former miners. A further 300m up the mountain is Dōyū-no-Wareto, the original opencast mine where you can still see the remains of the workings. Buses run occasionallyin high season.
It takes around 30 minutes to return on foot down the mountain road to Aikawa. On the way you'll pass several temples and Aikawa Kyōdo Hakubutsukan, a folk museum with more exhibits from the old mine.
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Takino
An atmospheric, split-level restaurant where wappa meshi is served in sublime, subtly balanced combinations. Try the finely shredded crab (kani) or salmon (sake) versions. From the main post office, facing south, turn left onto Nanokomachi-dōri, at the first light turn right (south); go left at the second alleyway, and it's on the right. Ask the obliging staff at the information desk to mark up a map with the exact location.
You'll know you've arrived when you see the large penis (plastered with various bills) in the entranceway. No English menu.
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Mitsutaya
At this atmospheric former bean-paste mill, dating from 1869, the speciality is eight varieties of dengaku; these are bamboo skewers with deep-fried tofu and vegetables such as taro basted in sweet miso paste and baked over charcoal. Herring (nishin) is also superb. Facing west from the main post office, walk down Nanokomachi-dōri, then take the second left; it's just near the intersection with Nanokomachi-dōri. No English, but a picture menu makes ordering easy.
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Tsuruga-jō
The Aizu clan made Tsuruga-jō, their headquarters. The present building is a 1965 reconstruction, but parts of the daunting walls remain, as does the castle's moat. Inside, there's a museum with historical artefacts from battle and daily life. Displays are a bit sketchy, although the frequent martial-arts demonstrations, carried out by adepts in full warrior regalia, are engaging. The 5th storey affords a terrific view of the surrounding town and valley, including Iimori-yama.
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Aoba Castle Exhibition Hall
If you don't have an intimate knowledge of the Masamune legend when you climb the Sendai-jō Ato hill, you can get it at the Aoba Castle Exhibition Hall. A computer-generated film depicts the castle's former glory; its graphics are so similar to modern video games that Sony PS3 or XBox aficionados will start expecting samurai warriors to jump out from behind the castle if they don't toss a grenade. You can get English-language headsets.
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Zuihō-den
Masamune Date's mausoleum, Zuihō-den, is at the summit of a tree-covered hill by the Hirose-gawa. It was originally built in 1637, destroyed by Allied bombing during WWII and reconstructed in 1979. The present building is an exact replica of the original, faithful to the ornate and sumptuous Momoyama style: a complex, interlocking architecture, characterised by multicoloured woodcarvings.
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Aizu Sake Brewing Museum
The Aizu Sake Brewing Museum details the history of rice-wine brewing in the area. A fair number of English signs and an English pamphlet make it easy to get a basic sense of the brewing process. Life-size dioramas and old sake advertisements add to the charm. Naturally you can sample the famous tipple for the price of admission.
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Bunya puppet performances
Bunya puppet performances, a traditional form of puppetry that's been a feature of Sado life for over 250 years. From stop 1 outside the Ryōtsu ferry terminal, frequent buses run to Sawata and onto Aikawa on the Hon-sen line. The performanecs, staged by Silver Village, occur near the bus terminal in Sawata.
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Trad Bar Esprit
A popular trend in Japan is the 'olde tyme bar', with loads of wood panelling, photos of leathery jazz men on the walls, and bar staff done up like characters from The Sting. Esprit is one such place, and its faux nostalgia is an easy respite from Kokubunchō madness.
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Namaskar
The menu, with its spice-level warnings, has the usual suspects: tandoori chicken, chicken tikka, tandoori king prawns, prawn masala. It's all good stuff, though, and the portions are generous. Beware: the large video screen showing continuous, loud music videos is highly distracting.
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Kunimisō
Kunimisō is one of Sado's most popular minshuku, due to its collection of bunya puppets, which the owner likes to demonstrate to guests. It's 15 minutes by bus from Ryōtsu to the Uryūya bus stop, then a long walk. Phone ahead for a pick-up.
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Ryōtsu
With its grand mountain backdrop, Sado's main hub is quite pretty, as far as ports go. The central area is a 10-minute walk north of the ferry terminal, which is surrounded by nō artefacts; statues pepper the terminal and a giant mask rises above the trees.
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Simon's Bar
This cosy little stand-up bar, with its talismanic name, glass bar, and memorabilia, has a lively crowd of Japanese, the occasional foreigner, and a good selection of beers and cocktails. Take the first left after Club Shaft, heading towards Jōzenji-dōri.
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Club Shaft
This one's a sports bar during the week, with a high-fibre diet of European soccer and American baseball. On the weekends it's a dance club with house, breaks and hip-hop, as well as 'waving-your-arms-in-the-air-like-you-just-don't-care' retro Manchester nights.
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Taraibune Ride
Ogi's back attraction is a ride in this: a boat usually made from a barrel and rowed by women in traditional fisherfolk costumes. It looks difficult and it is - those awkward poles at the front are used to steer. You can try your hand at it in Ogi harbour.
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Oyaku-en
Oyaku-en is a meditative garden complex with a large, central carp pond. Originally a holiday retreat for the Aizu clan, it features a section devoted to the cultivation of medicinal herbs (available for purchase) - a practice encouraged by the lords.
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Vilevan
A mellow jazz bar, well versed in the history of the genre: it was originally called the Village Vanguard, until the famous New York bar of that name 'suggested' they reconsider. There's live music on Saturday nights and decent vegetarian food.
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Sazae-dō
Sazae-dō, an 18th-century hexagonal hall, contains 33 statues of Kannon (the Buddhist goddess of mercy). It also has a fabulous spiral staircase that, Escher-esque, allows you to walk up and down without retracing your steps.
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Yabuya Honten
A much-loved soba (buckwheat noodles) specialist, Yabuya Honten has been around since 1847 - more than enough time to perfect its craft. The kamo-zaru soba variation, served with duck, is terrific.
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Byakkotai Memorial Hall
Iimori-yama (飯盛山) is the mountain where a group of 'White Tiger' samurai killed themselves during the Bōshin Civil War. At the foot of the mountain, the Byakkotai Memorial Hall explains the story.
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Aji Tasuke
Try gyūtan cooked over charcoal, or the set menu (teishoku) featuring the famous dish accompanied by oxtail soup and rice with boiled barley. It's right next to the small torii shrine gate.
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Sendai City Museum
At Sendai City Museum there's a scale model of Sendai castle, along with an exhaustive account of the Masamune era. Among some 13,000 artefacts loaned from the Date family is his distinctive armour.
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