Local seafood and sake are the drawcards here. Seating is elbow-to-elbow at the counter, but the atmosphere is warm and jovial. If you can splurge, try the charcoal-grilled kinki (also called kichiji , or rockfish), the house speciality. Jiraiya's entrance is on a side street, marked by a giant red lantern. Reservations are recommended on weekends, especially for groups.