Things to do in Aizu Wakamatsu
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Aizu Bukeyashiki
Saigō Tanomo was the Aizu clan's chief retainer and Aizu Bukeyashiki is a superbly realised reconstruction of his yashiki (villa). Wander through the 38 rooms that include a guestroom for the Aizu lord, a tea-ceremony house, quarters for the clan's judge and a rice-cleaning mill presented here in full, noisy working order. Don't miss the samurai lavatory: underneath is a sandbox on wheels, an 'early-warning system' that could be removed so staff could monitor the health of the warriors.
You'll also find the room where Tanomo's wife and children committed suicide, fearing he wouldn't return from combat in the Bōshin War - although the utter impassivity of the wax models…
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Takino
An atmospheric, split-level restaurant where wappa meshi is served in sublime, subtly balanced combinations. Try the finely shredded crab (kani) or salmon (sake) versions. From the main post office, facing south, turn left onto Nanokomachi-dōri, at the first light turn right (south); go left at the second alleyway, and it's on the right. Ask the obliging staff at the information desk to mark up a map with the exact location.
You'll know you've arrived when you see the large penis (plastered with various bills) in the entranceway. No English menu.
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Mitsutaya
At this atmospheric former bean-paste mill, dating from 1869, the speciality is eight varieties of dengaku; these are bamboo skewers with deep-fried tofu and vegetables such as taro basted in sweet miso paste and baked over charcoal. Herring (nishin) is also superb. Facing west from the main post office, walk down Nanokomachi-dōri, then take the second left; it's just near the intersection with Nanokomachi-dōri. No English, but a picture menu makes ordering easy.
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Tsuruga-jō
The Aizu clan made Tsuruga-jō, their headquarters. The present building is a 1965 reconstruction, but parts of the daunting walls remain, as does the castle's moat. Inside, there's a museum with historical artefacts from battle and daily life. Displays are a bit sketchy, although the frequent martial-arts demonstrations, carried out by adepts in full warrior regalia, are engaging. The 5th storey affords a terrific view of the surrounding town and valley, including Iimori-yama.
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Aizu Sake Brewing Museum
The Aizu Sake Brewing Museum details the history of rice-wine brewing in the area. A fair number of English signs and an English pamphlet make it easy to get a basic sense of the brewing process. Life-size dioramas and old sake advertisements add to the charm. Naturally you can sample the famous tipple for the price of admission.
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Oyaku-en
Oyaku-en is a meditative garden complex with a large, central carp pond. Originally a holiday retreat for the Aizu clan, it features a section devoted to the cultivation of medicinal herbs (available for purchase) - a practice encouraged by the lords.
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Sazae-dō
Sazae-dō, an 18th-century hexagonal hall, contains 33 statues of Kannon (the Buddhist goddess of mercy). It also has a fabulous spiral staircase that, Escher-esque, allows you to walk up and down without retracing your steps.
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Byakkotai Memorial Hall
Iimori-yama (飯盛山) is the mountain where a group of 'White Tiger' samurai killed themselves during the Bōshin Civil War. At the foot of the mountain, the Byakkotai Memorial Hall explains the story.
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Rinkaku
On the Tsuruga-jō castle grounds, Rinkaku is an evocative, 400-year-old teahouse that was rescued from the castle's destruction by a local family and returned here in 1990.
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Fukushima Prefectural Museum
For nonfeudal glimpses into Aizu-Wakamatsu's history, try the Fukushima Prefectural Museum, with 400 displays ranging from prehistoric times to recent history.
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Books Fuji
In the Fuji Grand Hotel; has a microscopic selection of English material.
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Kagota
Serving mainly local specialities of Aizu Wakamatsu.
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