Aizu Bukeyashiki

Saigō Tanomo was the Aizu clan's chief retainer and Aizu Bukeyashiki is a superbly realised reconstruction of his yashiki (villa). Wander through the 38 rooms that include a guestroom for the Aizu lord, a tea-ceremony house, quarters for the clan's judge and a rice-cleaning mill presented here in full, noisy working order. Don't miss the samurai lavatory: underneath is a sandbox on wheels, an 'early-warning system' that could be removed so staff could monitor the health of the warriors.

You'll also find the room where Tanomo's wife and children committed suicide, fearing he wouldn't return from combat in the Bōshin War - although the utter impassivity of the wax models re-enacting the scene comically undercuts the drama. There's also a target range where you can try your hand at archery for ¥200.