Sights in Nagasaki
-
A
Clover Garden
At the southern end of Nagasaki, some former homes of the city's pioneering Meiji period European residents have been reassembled in this hillside garden. The series of moving stairways up the hill, along with the koi ponds and fountains, gives it the air of a cultural theme park (ever popular in Japan). The stylish houses are the main draw here, along with the interesting history and superb views across Nagasaki.
The garden takes its name from Thomas Glover (1838-1911), whose arms-importing operations played an important part in the Meiji Restoration; he built the first train line in Japan and he helped establish the country's first modern shipyard.
The best way to…
reviewed
-
B
Dejima Wharf
From the mid-17th century until 1855, the small isolated Dutch trading post of Dejima provided Japan its only peephole to the world outside; the Dutch were cordoned off and only allowed contact with their Japanese trading partners and courtesans. The area around Dejima Wharf was the focal point for much of this activity, and has recently been converted into an open-air collection of restaurants, bars, shops and galleries, all facing the bay and well worth a visit.
reviewed
-
C
Cable Car & Inasa-Yama Lookout
From the western side of the harbour, the carble car leaves every 20 minutes for the top of 333m-high Inasa-yama, offering superb views over Nagasaki, particularly at night. Buses 3 and 4 leave from outside JR Nagasaki station; get off at the Ropeway-mae stop and walk up the stone steps through the grounds of Fuchi-jinja.
reviewed
-
D
Suwa-jinja Shrine
Between 7 and 9 October, this enormous shrine comes to life with the dragon dance of Kunchi Matsuri, Nagasaki's most important annual celebration. Inside you will find a number of cutesy komainu (prayer dogs!). Be sure to see the kappa-komainu (water-sprite dog, which you pray to by dribbling water on the plate on its head) and the gan-kake komainu (turn-table dog). The latter was used by prostitutes, who prayed that storms would arrive soon, forcing the sailors to stay at the port another day.
Suwa-jinja was established in 1625 and its forested hilltop setting is meditative indeed. Tram lines 3, 4 and 5 run to the Suwa-jinja-mae stop.
reviewed
-
E
Megane-bashi
This is the best-known of several bridges that dot the river. Parallel to the temple row is the river, the Nakashima-gawa, which is crossed by a picturesque collection of 10 17th-century stone bridges. At one time, each bridge was the distinct entranceway to a separate temple. The Megane-bashi, or spectacles bridge, is so called because the water and the arches come together to form a reflection in the water, creating a 'spectacles' effect.
Six of the 10 bridges, including Megane-bashi, were washed away on 23 July 1982, but restored using the recovered stones.
reviewed
-
F
Ōura Catholic Church
This hilltop church, Japan's oldest (1865) is dedicated to the 26 Christians who were crucified in Nagasaki in 1597. It's more like a museum than a place of worship, with an ornate Gothic altar and bishop's chair, and an oil painting of the 26 martyrs. To pray for free, use the regular church across the street.
reviewed
-
G
Fukusai-ji Kannon
This temple takes the form of a huge turtle carrying an 18m-high figure of the goddess Kannon on its back. Inside, a Foucault pendulum (demonstrating the rotation of the earth on its axis) hangs from near the top of the hollow statue. Only St Petersburg and Paris have larger examples.
The original temple, Chinese in origin, was built in 1628 but was completely burnt by the A-bomb fire. The replacement was built in 1976. The temple bell tolls at 11:02 daily, the exact time of the explosion of the atomic bomb.
reviewed
-
H
Daion-ji
Climb the stairs to the large Kuroganemochi tree at the entrance to Daion-ji and follow the path that heads to the grave of Matsudaira Zushonokami. He had been magistrate of Nagasaki for a year when, in 1808, the British warship HMS Phaeton sailed into Nagasaki harbour and seized two Dutch hostages. The British and Dutch were on opposite sides in the Napoleonic War at that time.
Unable to oppose the British, Zushonokami capitulated to their demands for supplies, then promptly disembowelled himself.
reviewed
-
I
Nagasaki Museum of History & Culture
This large, excellent museum opened in 2005 to focus on Nagasaki's proud history of international exchange. The main gallery is a fabulous reconstruction of a section of the Edo-period Nagasaki Magistrate's Office, which controlled trade and diplomacy. The free English-language audioguide is one of the best in the country.
reviewed
-
J
Nagasaki Atomic Bomb Museum
An essential Nagasaki experience, this sombre place recounts the city's destruction and loss of life through photos and artefacts, including mangled rocks, trees, furniture, pottery and clothing, first-hand accounts from survivors and stories of heroic relief efforts. Exhibits cover Japan's military prewar aggression and the postbombing struggle for nuclear disarmament, and conclude with a chilling illustration of which nations still bear nuclear arms.
reviewed
Advertisement
-
Nagai Takashi Memorial Museum
The courage and faith of one man in the face of overwhelming adversity is the subject of this small but quietly moving museum. Already suffering from leukaemia, Dr Nagai survived the atomic explosion but lost his wife to it. He immediately devoted himself to the treatment of bomb victims until his death in 1951. In his final days, he continued to write prolifically and secure donations for survivors and orphans, earning the nickname 'Saint of Nagasaki'. Ask to watch the video in English.
Next door is Nyokodō (如己堂), the simple hut from which Dr Nagai worked – its name comes from the biblical commandment 'love thy neighbour as thyself'.
reviewed
-
Dr Siebold's House
Near Shin-Nakagawamachi tram stop is the site of Dr Siebold's house, an imposing Western-style structure, set in a leafy residential neighbourhood of narrow lanes and flower boxes. The doctor helped introduce Western medicine and scientific learning to Japan between 1823 and 1829, though he was eventually expelled for trying to smuggle Japanese goods. His daughter Ine was one of Japan's first female obstetricians.
reviewed
-
K
Sōfuku-ji
An Ōbaku (the third-largest Zen sect after Rinzai and Sōtō) temple was built in 1629 by Chinese monk Chaonian. Its red entrance gate (Daiippo-mon) exemplifies Ming dynasty architecture. Inside the temple you can admire a huge cauldron that was used to prepare food for famine victims in 1681, and a statue of Maso, goddess of the sea, worshipped by early Chinese seafarers.
reviewed
-
Teramachi, Temple Row
Between the Shian-bashi entertainment area and the smaller of the city's two rivers, Nakajima-gawa, the justly famous Tera-machi (literally 'temple street') is anchored at either end by Nagasaki's two best-known temples, Sōfuku-ji and Kōfuku-ji, both Chinese in origin. The path connecting them is home to several smaller temples and famous gravesites and makes for a relaxing stroll.
reviewed
-
Shian-bashi Bridge
The Shian-bashi tram stop marks the site of the bridge over which pleasure-seekers would cross into the Shian-bashi quarter. The bridge's name loosely translates to 'Bridge of Pondering': men might stop here one last time, debating whether to seek a night of pleasure or to return home. The bridge and the elegant old brothels are long gone but this is still the entertainment area of Nagasaki.
reviewed
-
L
Shōfuku-ji
This temple, surrounded by serene gardens, is not to be confused with Sōfuku-ji. It contains an arched stone gate dating from 1657. The main building was reconstructed in 1715 in the ornate Chinese style of the time. The onigawara (ogre-covered) wall is particularly interesting, as is the book-burning kiln. There are clear views of Nagasaki port from here.
reviewed
-
M
Atomic Bomb Hypocentre Park
The park has a smooth, black stone column marking the point above which the bomb exploded. Nearby are bomb-blasted relics, including a section of the wall of the Urakami Cathedral.
reviewed
-
N
26 Martyrs Memorial
This is a memorial wall with reliefs of the 26 Christians crucified in 1597, commemorating a harsh crackdown when six Spanish friars and 20 Japanese were killed. The youngest killed were boys aged 12 and 13. Behind the memorial is a simple museum with Christianity-related displays. The memorial is five minutes' walk from JR Nagasaki station.
reviewed
-
O
Dejima Museum
The small museum, a cluster of small buildings, has exhibits on the Dutch and other foreign contact with Nagasaki, and free walking-tour maps of the entire site. Although the island was submerged during 19th-century land-reclamation projects, the trading post, now a national historic site, has been restored.
reviewed
-
P
Glover House
The house takes its name from Thomas Glover (1838-1911), whose arms-importing operations played an important part in the Meiji Restoration; he built the first train line in Japan and he helped establish the country's first modern shipyard. The place is nestled in hillside Clover garden.
reviewed
Advertisement
-
Q
Heiwa-kōen
North of the hypocentre, the Peace Park is presided over by the 10-tonne bronze Nagasaki Peace Statue (平和祈念像), designed in 1955 by Kitamura Seibo, and includes the Peace Symbol Zone, an unusual sculpture garden with contributions from around the world. On 9 August, a rowdy antinuclear protest is held within earshot of the more respectful official memorial ceremony for those lost to the bomb.
reviewed
-
R
26 Martyrs museum
Just next door the memorial wall, which commemorates the murder of the 26 Christians who died here in the 16th-century, this musuem houses Christianity-related displays. The memorial is five minutes' walk from JR Nagasaki station.
reviewed
-
S
Historical Museum of China
This glossy museum of Chinese art spans jade artefacts and Neotlithic archaeological finds to terracotta warriors and Qing-dynasty porcelain, much of it on loan from the Palace Museum in Beijing. There's also a large gift shop.
The jauntily painted Kōshi-byō (長崎孔子廟) shrine nearby claims to be the only Confucian shrine built by and for Chinese outside of China, and the statues of sages in its courtyard certainly make you feel like you've journeyed across the sea. The original 1893 building was destroyed by fire following the A-bomb explosion.
reviewed
-
Koshashin-shiryōkan
This has has a collection of vintage photographs concerned with the Dutch houses and buildings and Japan's early interest in the West (including a rare one of the Meiji-era hero Sakamoto Ryoma).
reviewed
-
Nyokodō
Dr Nagai's small hut is preserved as a memorial next door to the memorial musuem also named after him. Dr Nagai Takashi devoted himself to the treatment of bomb victims until his death in 1951.
reviewed